• How to remove double click on mouse. Single click, double click, hover and roll

    Once upon a time there was a mouse, and her name was Defender MM-525. She steadfastly pulled her mouse strap - clicked on links, scrolled pages, moved the cursor. But once a misfortune happened - instead of one click, she began to make two, or even more. It used to be that you want to pause a video on YouTube - but instead it opens in full screen. Or you select the text - and at the last moment the selection is reset. It is clear that this could not continue.


    What to do? The Internet offers the following options:

    At the top is power, at the bottom is ground, to the right is a wire to the processor input. And at the input it has a gate of a field-effect transistor. In our case, we can assume that this is simply an ideal voltage meter. The voltage is greater than the specified one, which means that the processor outputs, the input is one, and if it is less, then zero.

    But if the input of the processor is ideal, then the switch cannot be considered as such with all due respect. When the switch closes, it means that one piece of metal is in contact with another piece of metal. But between the “off” and “on” states, there is that awkward moment when these two pieces barely touch. And if there is contact now, then in a microsecond it can disappear, and then recover again. And sometimes even one contact hits another and, according to Newton's laws, bounces off it, or even several times. What will mother processor think? That's right - he will think that the switch was turned on, turned off, turned on, turned off, turned on, turned off, etc. Although "in fact" it was turned on only once. This phenomenon even has its own name - contact bounce.

    Wait, doesn't it remind you of anything? Oh yes, a similar incident just happened with our mouse! This means that our working hypothesis will be that the developers of the mouse either did not remember the possibility of chatter at all, or their efforts to combat it were in vain. And we will have to fight this enemy for them.

    Let's notice two things. First, the speed of our clicking is limited. It is unlikely that we will click on the mouse more than ten times per second. Secondly, the switches try to make the bounce moment pass as quickly as possible, and certainly in one tenth of a second the mouse button will have time to calm down. Thus, our task is to separate high-frequency pressings from low-frequency ones, that is, we need a low-pass filter. The easiest way to do this is to solder a capacitor:

    That is what we will do.

    Here it is - our button:

    And this is it, but without the lid:

    Let's sign the contact numbers for convenience:

    The principle of operation is obvious - at rest, contacts 1 and 3 are closed, when the button is pressed for a while, all contacts open, and then contacts 1 and 2 close. When released, the same thing happens in reverse order.

    We opened the button not to bend something, but to see firsthand how it works, and if we're lucky, then look at the rattling. And the Samsung WB2000 camera and the I96U lens will help us in this. The mentioned device can shoot video at a frequency of 1000 frames per second. True, not so hot, but, as they say, than they are rich.

    The most sophisticated setting for high-speed shooting:

    And, actually, the movie:

    As you can see, the contact manages to fly the entire required distance in five frames (that is, 5 milliseconds), and no visible bounce is observed. Perhaps the chatter could be seen on the oscillogram, but, unfortunately, I remembered that I had an oscilloscope only when the mouse was already assembled. But one way or another, it is clear that the characteristic bounce time is clearly less than the minimum click time, and that the boundary between them runs at about five milliseconds.

    Lyrical digression. How would I make a mouse if I had a switch like the one above? And like this:

    Cheap and angry. The input of the processor is not only a perfect voltmeter, it is also a capacitor of several picofarads. So in those milliseconds, while one contact flies from the second to the third, the voltage will not have time to noticeably change, and when it arrives, the capacitor will be charged, and even if the contact jumps, it will still not be able to discharge, so there will be no bounce. Well, unless he jumps as far as the opposite contact, but this, as we have seen, is an extremely unlikely situation.

    But the valiant mouse developers, as we will see in a moment, do not look for easy ways.

    Let's measure our switch with a multimeter. First, we find that none of the contacts is shorted to power. Anyway. At rest, there is 2.5 volts of power on the second contact, on the rest - zero. In the pressed state, all contacts are zero. This suggests that the developers did not follow my path, and apparently the second contact serves as the processor input, and the third contact is not used at all. But the funniest thing is that after pressing the button, zero on the second contact remains for another five seconds! Unfortunately, the mechanism of work and the advantages of such a solution and the motivation of the developers remain a mystery to me. Hopefully someone in the know can enlighten me.

    Thus, our entire coherent scheme for combating chatter breaks against a blank wall of misunderstanding of modern circuit solutions. But, in fact, do not stop the same when the job is almost done. So let's solder without understanding.

    We will solder the capacitor between pins 1 and 2. And to measure the effect, we will use a script like this one, slightly correcting it so that it reacts both to releasing and pressing the button, and removing artificial time limits.

    A 0.1uF capacitor gives a click time of 600ms. That is, no matter how fast we press, the button will “unstick” no earlier than after 0.6 seconds. It's too much. By linear extrapolation, we assume that 3.3 nF will give a time of 20 ms. We solder - and we see the time is about 100 ms. But this time includes the time of the actual movement of the finger, and without a capacitor it is not much less. After trying a few more values, I decided to stop at 3.3 nF.

    Since there were no SMD capacitors, I had to solder the legged one:

    That, in fact, is all. The mouse was successfully assembled and continues its simple but responsible service. I hope the above recipe will be useful not only for my mouse.

    UPD: Completely forgot. There is another scourge of mouse buttons that never came up in the discussion until I remembered. It feels like this - you have to press the button with more force, the click is no longer as clear as before, and sometimes the button gives a release signal while it is pressed. And there is only one solution - that plastic that presses on the switch can wear off over time, then such a beautiful recess forms in it, which does not allow the button to be pressed all the way. It is treated simply - you need to either modify this plastic with a file so that it again becomes flat and parallel to the button, or glue a thin flat plastic to it for the same purpose.

    It may also seem that I am against methods that are “alternative” to those described in the article, but this is not so. But each method has its own scope. If the mouse is made in such a way that the slightest bounce is perceived as pressing - you will clean the contacts and / or change the switch every week.

    UPD2: It turned out that not everything is so simple.

    What to do if the mouse began to make a double click instead of a single one (constantly or from time to time), although you press the button only once? Here are the causes of this problem and how to solve it.

    Causes

    Microswitch wear

    The most common cause is the wear of the microswitch, as a result of which contact bounce began to occur. There are always more clicks on the left mouse button than on the right (and vice versa if you are left-handed and configured the mouse for the left hand), and the microswitch is designed for a very large, but still limited number of clicks. You can fix it yourself, it will take your accuracy and half an hour of time. If your mouse is a few years old and you don't want to deal with repairs, the easiest way is to go to the store and buy a new mouse.

    Software problem

    Double-clicking instead of single-clicking is not necessarily a mouse malfunction. This may be purely a software issue with drivers or additional software.

    To determine what is the cause in your case, try connecting the mouse to another computer or laptop. If the symptoms persist, then it's obviously a microswitch.

    Solutions

    Solution for driver problem

    If you have Windows, this method can help: through the Control Panel, find the mouse in the list of devices, remove it from there and reboot. The mouse should then reconnect. Perhaps the problem with double clicks will disappear (unlikely).

    Software solutions for microswitch wear

    MouseFix

    There is a purely software solution to help with microswitch bounce: Daniel Jackson's MouseFix utility (for Windows). It intercepts clicks that occur a very short time after the first, since such clicks can only be associated with contact bounce in a microswitch. This utility can be used at least as a temporary solution.

    1. Download the MouseFix utility and extract it to a separate folder.
    2. In the All Programs → Startup folder, create a shortcut pointing to MouseFix.exe.
    3. Log out and log in again (or just run the utility manually for the first time).

    Left Mouse Button Fix

    1. Open the mouse. Different mouse models open differently. Often two screws (for a small Phillips screwdriver) are located under the sliding pads glued to the bottom of the mouse in its back - to get to them, these pads need to be pry off with something sharp and temporarily peeled off. In this case, there are latches in the front part - be careful not to break them when removing the upper part of the case.

      Mouse disassembly

    2. Locate the microswitch under the button. If access to it with the case open is still difficult, remove the board on which it is installed. You may have to disconnect the cables and / or unscrew something else to do this.
    3. Remove the microswitch cover by prying on each side with something thin and sharp, such as a needle. At this stage, there is a risk of breaking the latches, be careful. Please note that there are non-separable microswitches - in this case, soldering will be the only way out.

      Microswitch under the left mouse button

    4. When you remove the cover, a small button (usually white) will fall out of it. Don't lose her.

      Micro switch cover and button

    5. Now you need to remove the spring-loaded copper plate from the microswitch - this is the point. Over time, the tongue-spring unbends, the button returns worse to its original position and the click is not clear - then erroneous double clicks occur.

    Controlling a computer with a mouse is based on an event mechanism. And the simplest trick is pointing. Often it allows you to open a submenu or, for example, get a tooltip with additional information.

    Another close technique is the rillover. It consists in the fact that when the mouse pointer is hovered (moved) over the control, it changes shape. For example, the buttons are recessed, and then pop up again; the counters turn one turn, the drawings are animated ("come to life"). The Windows operating system itself does not use this technique, but it is used on Internet Web pages and in some programs. Sometimes it is useful to move the mouse over graphic illustrations to see something new that is hidden from a superficial glance.

    For example, double-click the My Computer window and the Recycle Bin window. In the My Computer window, get acquainted with how many disks are in the computer, and in the Recycle Bin window, see which documents and programs have been previously deleted. If the Trash is empty, then someone has already emptied it :). Do not close open windows yet - they will be useful to us, but in the next article;).

    P.S. I want to remind you about the folder - My Documents - how do you approach it? Consumer or professional? Link to article: .

    Instruction

    If your computer is running Windows 7 or Vista, click the Organize menu in any Windows Explorer window and select Folder and Search Options. The Folder Options dialog box opens.

    Now all commands that previously required double-clicking to activate will be activated with a single mouse click. For example, to open any file or run a program, it will be enough to click once on the icon.

    If you own a mouse model that has additional buttons, you can set one of them to activate commands with one click. To do this, use special software from the mouse manufacturer, with which you can configure additional buttons.

    How will they open on the computer folders, in what form they and the files contained in them will be displayed - it all depends on what settings for the folders are selected. All the necessary parameters can be configured in the dialog box " Properties folders". To do this, you need to perform several steps.

    Instruction

    Open the window " Properties folders". This can be done in several ways. Open any folder on your computer from any directory. Select "Tools" from the top menu bar. In the drop-down menu, left-click on the line " Properties folders”, the appropriate dialog box will open. Another way: open the "Control Panel" through the "Start" button. In the Appearance and Themes category, select the icon Properties folders". If the "Control Panel" has a classic look, the icon you are looking for is available immediately.

    In the window that opens, on the General tab, set the settings for the display and ways to open folders on your computer. If in the "Tasks" section you have a marker in the "Display a list of typical tasks in folders" field, the area of ​​​​your open folders will be visually divided in two. On the right side there will be icons of files contained in folders, on the left side - tasks that can be performed for these files (rename, copy, delete, and so on). The marker in the "Use regular folders Windows" means that the task field will be missing.

    Hi, I have a logitech mouse on a laptop, it started to involuntarily double-click the left button, with one click. This is an abnormal phenomenon, nothing more than a problem that we will solve today.

    There are two ways to resolve the situation, your solution may differ from mine, since our mice and systems are different, we are doing diagnostics!

    There are two solutions here, mechanical and software, now you will understand everything.

    Problem

    In this article, we solve the problem of an involuntary, double click, which should not exist in principle. That is, we fix glitches and software violations, and possibly mechanically adjust the rodent ...

    If you just want to change the double click to a single one, in order not to disturb your parents from sleeping, playing quietly at night, this article is not about that =)

    Analysis

    I came to the conclusion that my problem lies in the mouse itself, this was prompted to me by Windows itself, most recently, I switched from 7 to 8.1 and the double-click problem remained.

    As a conclusion, we can assume that the problem is in the mouse itself.

    How to fix, mechanically, a little lower. Now, you need to think, do a little analysis.

    Perhaps you changed the OS recently, but dv. click left?

    This can also be confirmed by removing the device drivers, reinstalling.

    If you have a cool, gaming device, then 100% of it comes with a disk with firewood.

    Delete the old drivers and install again, or better, visit the manufacturer's website and download the latest driver for your operating system. How to determine the real office. site and distinguish it from a double read (important!). But in this way we reinstall the standard mouse driver in Windows: Start => Control Panel => Device Manager =>

    Choose your mouse. Right-click to call the context menu, "Properties". The "Driver" tab, and uninstalling the "Uninstall" driver. We do not argue with all Windows warnings, we agree. If everything goes smoothly, then the driver will be completely removed, after which the mouse will stop working. Now remove the connector and restart the computer, this is not necessary, but it definitely will not be superfluous.

    Since the mouse is disabled, we use the keyboard to restart the computer.

    Click Start, use the arrows and the Tab key to select "Shut down", and press Enter.

    After the reboot, plug the mouse back into the connector, the system will automatically detect the device and reinstall the driver.

    If the double click did not disappear anywhere, but simply went to drink tea and returned, we conclude that the solution lies not in the provision, but in the device itself. And it needs to be edited for this: And so, we take a chisel, a hammer, a file and act like this guy on one of the forums: =), but seriously, let's look at how it's done.

    mechanical way

    We disassemble the mouse by unscrewing a few bolts from the bottom, my problem was that the deflection of the plate increased, changed to an indecent state in the micro switch of the left mouse button, the figure shows how to disassemble and fix this nuance:

    With care and consistency:

    1. Unscrew the screw
    2. We take out the microcircuit
    3. Disconnect the power from the microcircuit
    4. We bring the microcircuit to the light

    5. We straighten the plate.
    5.1. With a knife we ​​disconnect this box.
    5.2. We remove the plate with our hands, bend it almost to a flat state.
    5.3. We install it back.
    5.4. We hold the nutcracker with scissors for clamping and place it in the box.
    5.5. With the same scissors, we take the entire structure by the nutcracker and insert the box back.
    5.6. We snap our fingers, it snaps into place and that's it.

    6. Connect the power cord back to the chip.
    7. Insert the chip.
    8. We twist the screw (s).

    The log of your actions may differ slightly from mine, since the designs are different, but the essence of this does not change.

    conclusions

    As always, everything depends on the quality of workmanship, as a consequence of the cheapness of our choice.

    Yes, and from the manufacturer, of course, for example, when buying his problematic logitech mouse, the sales assistant simply blew it ** that the company is simply a leader in the niche and you simply cannot find such quality, at a price of 250 rubles. =)

    So, guys, I wish you fewer problems, and a good choice!

    Did my advice help you? Do you have any questions?

    Be sure to write in the comments, the topic is topical and perhaps my recommendations are not enough!

    And also, do not forget to repost the article in your social networks, I will be pleased =)

    I have been using A4Tech mice for a year now, and every time I encounter the same problem: mouse double clickinstead of single. This happens so often that I decided to write a separate article.So how to remove double click ?


    In general, the mouse can double-click for two reasons:
    1. Mechanical wear of buttons.
    2. Problems with drivers or Windows settings. I already wrote about such cases once in an article.
    .

    1. Disassemble the mouse

    In the first case surgery may help. The mouse needs to be disassembled for this. As I noted in the article, one screw is under the sticker, one is visible and a few more may be under the legs. At least that's how it was in mine..

    Most likely, having disassembled, you will see a bunch of dust, debris and similar delights. You need to clean up, for this it is best to use a piece of lint-free cloth moistened with alcohol (if not, ordinary vodka will do). After cleaning, if possible, remove the wheel so that it does not interfere with our further work.

    2. Fix button play

    In most cases problem with buttons. We take the usual electrical tape and stick it, as in the figure. But do not stick too much - it will only get worse . You can use an unnecessary protective film from a smartphone or PDA - it is stronger and more durable.

    At the end it will look something like this.


    When the glue dries, collect the mouse back. Let's check if everything is fine now. If the button is tight or not pressed at all, you need to disassemble the mouse again and remove the extra layer of electrical tape.

    3. Problem in button sensors


    If even now the mouse double clicks button sensor problem. Now looking for left and right button sensors(they are on the board). Typically, sensors are small rectangles with a button on top. We press this button. If everything is fine, we hear the usual click of your X7 mouse. If the sensor is damaged or broken, then there are only two options:

    1. Most mice have three sensors: left, right and middle - under the wheel. They are all exactly the same - it's easier for the manufacturer. And since the middle mouse button is not really needed by most users, its sensor can be re-soldered to the place of the damaged one. Alternatively, you can take an old unnecessary mouse and solder a working sensor from there.

    2. If there is no old mouse, it’s a pity to sacrifice the middle button, or you don’t have soldering iron skills, it’s easier to buy a new mouse. Luckily, they're cheap now.

    This is what the sensors for the left and right buttons look like.


    The second case when mouse double click instead of single due to Windows settings or driver problems, I consider in the article.

    Related content:

    • tutorial
    • recovery mode

    Once upon a time there was a mouse, and her name was Defender MM-525. She steadfastly pulled her mouse strap - clicked on links, scrolled pages, moved the cursor. But once a misfortune happened - instead of one click, she began to make two, or even more. It used to be that you want to pause a video on YouTube - but instead it opens in full screen. Or you select the text - and at the last moment the selection is reset. It is clear that this could not continue.

    What to do? The Internet offers the following options:

    At the top is power, at the bottom is ground, to the right is a wire to the processor input. And at the input it has a gate of a field-effect transistor. In our case, we can assume that this is simply an ideal voltage meter. The voltage is greater than the specified one, which means that the processor outputs, the input is one, and if it is less, then zero.

    But if the input of the processor is ideal, then the switch cannot be considered as such with all due respect. When the switch closes, it means that one piece of metal is in contact with another piece of metal. But between the “off” and “on” states, there is that awkward moment when these two pieces barely touch. And if there is contact now, then in a microsecond it can disappear, and then recover again. And sometimes even one contact hits another and, according to Newton's laws, bounces off it, or even several times. What will mother processor think? That's right - he will think that the switch was turned on, turned off, turned on, turned off, turned on, turned off, etc. Although "in fact" it was turned on only once. This phenomenon even has its own name - contact bounce.

    Wait, doesn't it remind you of anything? Oh yes, a similar incident just happened with our mouse! This means that our working hypothesis will be that the developers of the mouse either did not remember the possibility of chatter at all, or their efforts to combat it were in vain. And we will have to fight this enemy for them.

    Let's notice two things. First, the speed of our clicking is limited. It is unlikely that we will click on the mouse more than ten times per second. Secondly, the switches try to make the bounce moment pass as quickly as possible, and certainly in one tenth of a second the mouse button will have time to calm down. Thus, our task is to separate high-frequency pressings from low-frequency ones, that is, we need a low-pass filter. The easiest way to do this is to solder a capacitor:

    That is what we will do.

    Here it is - our button:

    And this is it, but without the lid:

    Let's sign the contact numbers for convenience:

    The principle of operation is obvious - at rest, contacts 1 and 3 are closed, when the button is pressed for a while, all contacts open, and then contacts 1 and 2 close. When released, the same thing happens in reverse order.

    We opened the button not to bend something, but to see firsthand how it works, and if we're lucky, then look at the rattling. And the Samsung WB2000 camera and the I96U lens will help us in this. The mentioned device can shoot video at a frequency of 1000 frames per second. True, not so hot, but, as they say, than they are rich.

    The most sophisticated setting for high-speed shooting:

    And, actually, the movie:

    As you can see, the contact manages to fly the entire required distance in five frames (that is, 5 milliseconds), and no visible bounce is observed. Perhaps the chatter could be seen on the oscillogram, but, unfortunately, I remembered that I had an oscilloscope only when the mouse was already assembled. But one way or another, it is clear that the characteristic bounce time is clearly less than the minimum click time, and that the boundary between them runs at about five milliseconds.

    Lyrical digression. How would I make a mouse if I had a switch like the one above? And like this:

    Cheap and angry. The input of the processor is not only a perfect voltmeter, it is also a capacitor of several picofarads. So in those milliseconds, while one contact flies from the second to the third, the voltage will not have time to noticeably change, and when it arrives, the capacitor will be charged, and even if the contact jumps, it will still not be able to discharge, so there will be no bounce. Well, unless he jumps as far as the opposite contact, but this, as we have seen, is an extremely unlikely situation.

    But the valiant mouse developers, as we will see in a moment, do not look for easy ways.

    Let's measure our switch with a multimeter. First, we find that none of the contacts is shorted to power. Anyway. At rest, there is 2.5 volts of power on the second contact, on the rest - zero. In the pressed state, all contacts are zero. This suggests that the developers did not follow my path, and apparently the second contact serves as the processor input, and the third contact is not used at all. But the funniest thing is that after pressing the button, zero on the second contact remains for another five seconds! Unfortunately, the mechanism of work and the advantages of such a solution and the motivation of the developers remain a mystery to me. Hopefully someone in the know can enlighten me.

    Thus, our entire coherent scheme for combating chatter breaks against a blank wall of misunderstanding of modern circuit solutions. But, in fact, do not stop the same when the job is almost done. So let's solder without understanding.

    We will solder the capacitor between contacts 1 and 2. And to measure the effect, we will use a script like

    Controlling a computer with a mouse is based on an event mechanism. And the simplest trick is pointing. Often it allows you to open a submenu or, for example, get a tooltip with additional information.

    Another close technique is the rillover. It consists in the fact that when the mouse pointer is hovered (moved) over the control, it changes shape. For example, the buttons are recessed, and then pop up again; the counters turn one turn, the drawings are animated ("come to life"). The Windows operating system itself does not use this technique, but it is used on Internet Web pages and in some programs. Sometimes it is useful to move the mouse over graphic illustrations to see something new that is hidden from a superficial glance.

    For example, double-click the My Computer window and the Recycle Bin window. In the My Computer window, get acquainted with how many disks are in the computer, and in the Recycle Bin window, see which documents and programs have been previously deleted. If the Trash is empty, then someone has already emptied it :). Do not close open windows yet - they will be useful to us, but in the next article;).

    P.S. I want to remind you about the folder - My Documents - how do you approach it? Consumer or professional? Link to article: .

    Having become accustomed to the fact that in the environment of the Windows operating system the main commands are activated by double-clicking the mouse, one may be surprised to learn that the same commands can be activated with a single click. You can do this after changing the system settings or using an additional mouse button.

    Instruction

  • To configure a regular 3-button mouse to activate commands in one click, open My Computer or any other Windows Explorer window. If your computer is running Windows XP, select Folder Options from the View menu.
  • If your computer is running Windows 7 or Vista, click the Organize menu in any Windows Explorer window and select Folder and Search Options. The Folder Options dialog box opens.
  • In the Mouse Clicks section, check the box next to Open with one click, select with pointer. If desired, here you can also activate the option "Underline icon labels on hover." After completing the settings, close the window by clicking the "OK" button.
  • Now all commands that previously required double-clicking to activate will be activated with a single mouse click. For example, to open any file or run a program, it will be enough to click once on the icon.
  • If you have a mouse model that has additional buttons, you can set one of them to activate commands with one click. To do this, use special software from the mouse manufacturer, with which you can configure additional buttons.
  • Such programs are usually written on the disk that comes with the mouse. If you do not have a disc, you can download the necessary application on the official website of the manipulator (mouse) manufacturer.