We improve the car dashboard. Improving the car dashboard Dashboard backing

Let's look at the main options for tuning dashboard elements. Since each car brand has its own special layout, you may not be able to exactly copy the ideas below to your car, but in any case the sequence of actions will be the same.

1. Upholstery of the instrument mask
Covering the dashboard visor is not the easiest task; the complex shape of the part does not allow you to tighten the mask without a seam.
The dashboard visor can be covered with Alcantara, artificial or genuine leather. The material and neat seams beautifully complement the panel.
// do not try to drag the panel with carpet. It turns out ugly
In the case where the part is strongly curved, then you cannot do without a pattern and seams.
First, you need to dismantle the dashboard mask by unscrewing 2 bolts at the top and 2 at the bottom. Now you can remove the pattern, marking the places where the seams will go. It is better to add 1 cm to each seam. Thick Whatman paper or paper tape are perfect for making a pattern.

We transfer the template we received to the material and sew the pieces together using a sewing machine. It is recommended to use an American seam with a turn. After this, all that remains is to glue the resulting cover onto the visor.

2. Starting the engine with a button
The engine start button is an ignition method that smoothly moves from luxury cars to the middle segment. An increasing number of modern cars are getting rid of the old engine starting system.

There are several options (schemes) for installing a button to start the engine. They differ in several nuances:

1. The key is used to start the engine through a button (the key turns on the ignition, the button starts the engine)
2. The key to start the engine through the button is not used (pressing the button completely replaces the key)
3. Using the button, you can separately turn on the ignition (press the button - the ignition is turned on, press the button and the brake pedal - start the engine)

Let's try to show the main points of connecting the engine start button.
1. Start the engine with a button (with the ignition key)
This method, in our opinion, is the simplest.

The button does not work when the engine is running, that is, the starter does not spin, but starts working after the engine is turned off and the ignition is turned on with the key.
We take the ignition relay with the wire block. (4 wires in total, 2 high-current circuits (yellow contacts on the relay itself) and 2 low-current circuits (white contacts).
We throw the wire of the high-current circuit onto contact 15 of the ignition switch, and the second into contact 30 of the same lock (one is pink, the other is red).

We throw one wire of the low-current circuit to - ground, and the second to the green wire on it + appears during ignition and interrupt the wire from the relay to the green wire with our button.

2. Start the engine with a button (without ignition key)
The circuit uses a rear fog lamp relay. You can buy it or assemble it yourself.

You need a large wire with a terminal connected to the pink one.
There are also thin wires: we isolate the red and blue ones with a stripe, and we throw the gray one on the ignition or connect it to the red one, otherwise the BSK will not work. Any diode will do.
It is convenient to connect the button illumination and relay power to the alarm system. If the engine stalls, press the button - the ignition will turn off, press the button again - the engine will start.

3. Engine start button with the pedal pressed.
We took the diagram with the rear fog lamp relay as a basis and modified it.
We use a latching button, which we connect to contacts 87 and 86 of the ignition relay. She can turn on the ignition. It would be more correct to turn on the ignition separately via the pedal.
Typically, to start the engine, use the brake pedal to turn on the ignition via a button.
As an option, you can also use the handbrake rather than the pedal, because it also has a limit switch.
To start the engine from a button through the brake pedal you need to:
Connect 86 starter relays to the brake lights, or use a relay (whichever is more convenient for you)

You can use the following as a motor start button:
Buttons for domestic cars (for example, a button for opening the trunk of a VAZ 2110 (without locking)
Universal buttons (with and without fixation)
Buttons from foreign cars (for example, BMW)
Modify the button (apply the design yourself)

3. Frame for navigator
One of the good places where you can embed a navigator in many cars is the central air duct, but for this it needs to be modified.

You can install a monitor in a deflector up to 7 inches, but here we will consider placing the XPX-PM977 navigator at 5 inches.
First, remove the deflector. After this, we cut out the central partition and the sides of the back side so that the monitor is recessed and parallel to the front surface of the deflector. We use the navigator cover as the basis of the frame. To eliminate voids we use column meshes.

We use masking tape to seal it and sculpt the frame using epoxy. After drying, remove and glue the frame using glue

Apply putty and wait for it to harden. Then we remove the excess with fine-grained sandpaper, after which we repeat this until we get an even shape.

All that remains is to paint the frame. We use aerosol paint and apply it in several layers.

We block off the air flow from the navigator using a sheet of celluloid and tape. Snap the deflector.

By analogy, you can build a tablet into the panel, and, if desired, also make it removable.

Behind the grids (which go along the edges of the navigator) you can install diode lighting with an LED strip. It would look very nice.
.

4. Instrument panel lighting
We decided to use 3 colors for illumination at once.
Instrument scales are illuminated in blue.
Numbers are in white
Red zones are colored red accordingly.
First, we remove the instrument cluster. Then you need to carefully remove the arrows. Next, carefully remove the backing of the numbers. It is made from thick polyethylene tape. The backing is glued. With careful, competent effort, it comes off well.
You should get something like this:

Next, you need to lay the backing on the paper, face down. There is a light filter on its back side. Which we wash with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Afterwards we clean off the spray used to fix the filter.
It should look like this

Now you can start cutting out the base where the LEDs will be soldered. You can use textolite; if you don’t have it, you can use thick cardboard. We cut out the base for the diodes in it.

We use different colors of LEDs, so it is necessary to make a light fence (otherwise the colors will mix). We make a slot in the center of the base to create a light fence between the two diode scales. We cut a line from the same cardboard to size and height and insert it into the slot made between the two rows of diodes.

Now you need to solder the LEDs in parallel:

For the arrows, we solder two red LEDs at the base and point their lenses upward.
Similarly, we highlight all other scales and numbers.

We solder + and - to the tracks from the standard light bulbs and, observing the polarity, solder the wiring.
Now you need to install the arrows. We carefully attach them to the motor drives, but do not plant them deep, otherwise the arrows will cling to the scales. Then we put everything back together in reverse order and connect it.

An interesting modification of such lighting is possible. You can take three-crystal RGB diodes (they are brighter and more reliable than conventional ones + their glow can be controlled) and install them by connecting
Let's explain the difference! In this case, when dimmed, the backlight will shine exactly the same (only much brighter), but if you wish, by pressing a button on the remote control, you can change the color of the instrument lighting and even more - turn it on in light and music mode!
You can also add footwell lighting for the front passengers by connecting it to the same controller. To do this, we recommend using It turns out that the backlight of the panel and legs glows in the same color or simultaneously in light and music mode.

5. Making a rack for additional devices

A radical and very interesting solution is podiums for additional devices in the window stand.
First, we measure a convenient distance between the sensors inside the cabin. We remove the plastic stand and sand it down so that the glue sticks better.

Cups may not be included with the devices, but they can be made from a plastic pipe of the required diameter. Now you need to temporarily secure the resulting podiums at the desired angle. After this, we try on the devices again and cut holes in the rack to deepen them sufficiently. At this stage, the most important thing is to see whether they are conveniently located.

Now, for everything to be beautiful, you need to make a smooth descent from the device to the rack. This can be done in different ways.
One option is to use pieces of plastic pipe or cardboard. Let's cut out small shapes and glue them so that we get a smooth descent from the sensor to the stand.
In another option, any fabric that needs to be wrapped around our blanks is suitable. We secure the fabric with clamps so that it does not slip.
We lay fiberglass on top of the cardboard, pipe or fabric and then apply epoxy glue. It is also important to apply fiberglass to the stand itself in order to securely fix the device sockets. After this, we wait until our structure dries.
Next, we cut off the excess fiberglass and clean the structure. During the cleaning process, you cannot work without a respirator - it’s harmful! Then, using fiberglass putty, we create the smooth shapes we need. We do this until we get a flat surface. The next layer will be putty for plastic. We apply it, wait until it dries, and clean it up. We repeat this until the surface is as smooth as possible.

All that remains is to create an attractive look for our podiums. To do this, we use either a primer followed by painting, or upholstery with material (a more complex option). Finally, we insert the devices and connect them.

A very interesting addition would be to install a neon ring in the gap between the edges of the device and the end of the cup, or, alternatively, from the inside along the visor of the device, if there is one. It would be very futuristic! This would require about

New dashboard lighting in a classic folk car VAZ gives the interior sophistication and a sense of comfort. Installing neon or even LED illumination on a car requires a lot of money for such an expensive pleasure. The best way to solve the problem is to replace the dashboard backlight on your own. The process of replacing the lighting in your garage, firstly, is not complicated, and secondly, it requires less money. One of the options for tuning your car is a special overlay for the dashboard, but this will cost a lot. It will be better if you do the tuning of the instrument panel yourself.

To complete the job you need to be patient, as well as the tools and necessary materials. The first step in creating perfection is disassembling the dashboard. To do this, you need to remove the protective glass of the devices. The next step is to remove the arrows from the instruments. To avoid damaging the arrows made of fragile material, before removing the arrow with a screwdriver, place several layers of cardboard under the opposite end of the plastic. Using a little force, gently remove the arrow from the axis. Similar actions need to be done with the remaining arrows.

The dashboard backing is also very easy to remove. To remove it, you need any stationery knife. The edge of a knife is inserted between the panel and the substrate, and then we cut a layer of sealant around the perimeter of the substrate. After removing the protective glass backing, we proceed to further work on tuning the panel.

A light filter is placed on the surface of the dashboard under the backing, which evenly distributes lighting over the entire area of the panel. This light filter must be removed using a utility knife, carefully scraping off the light-conducting layer.

A light filter is a special paint that is applied to the back side of the dashboard substrate and provides color illumination for numbers and other information indicators. After rough processing of the substrate, the places where the light filter was applied must be treated with acetone or alcohol. The reagent will remove any remaining paint, as well as degrease the surface and prepare it for the next treatment process.

At the next stage of work, you will need to change the dashboard lighting. First you need to “get your teeth into it,” so to speak, and change the odometer backlight. An odometer is an indicator of the distance traveled by a car, measured in kilometers or miles. In order to install a new odometer backlight, you must first remove the odometer screen, remove the blue protective film, remove the old backlight bulb and replace it with a new LED. For the new dashboard lighting, you can use a multi-color LED, which has the ability to change colors at the user’s request. The LED is connected to the standard light bulb socket, then we put the odometer screen in its place.

The next step is to completely replace the dashboard lighting. We attach new LEDs to the instrument panel frame. The multicolor LEDs that we are installing in this case are sold complete with a color switch. If your budget is limited, you can avoid using multi-color LEDs in favor of regular ones. We install the LEDs on the seats and connect them with the standard contact of the previous dashboard lighting.

The speedometer and tachometer arrows must be able to change the backlight. Carrying out such an operation will require removing the old paint from the arrow. In order for the paint to be easily removed, you must first remove it from the surface with a stationery knife, and then go over the surface with acetone or industrial alcohol. When the arrow is clear of paint, you can paint it with white nail polish or something else. The main thing in this process is that the arrow is exactly white, since only white color can convey the entire range of LEDs.

If you have installed multi-color LED lighting on the dashboard of your VAZ car, you need to install a color switch to be able to select the color of the dashboard lighting. It is recommended to install the switch in the lower right corner of the dashboard. When all the work has already been done, you can begin the final assembly of the finished panel.

The first step is to start by installing the underlay. We apply a layer of sealant to the back side of the substrate so that it adheres firmly to the base. Next, we install the instrument arrows in their places and cover the structure with protective glass.

How to modify the design of the dashboard with your own hands? A little time, labor, and you're done! Let's look at how to do such tuning using the example of a Hyundai Accent car. Here is a list of what we need for work:

small pliers;
sandpaper;
double-sided tape;
screwdrivers of different sizes;
Lomond Satin photo paper, matte, 280 g.
scissors.

Stage 1 Disassembly.

Let's start disassembling the panel. Unscrew the two screws at the top. Then we disconnect the three connectors and now you can sit comfortably at the table and unscrew the devices.

Stage 2. We remove the arrows.

Use 2 screwdrivers and a hair dryer for this.

Make sure that the tachometers are not damaged.

Stage 3. Processing of plastic substrate.

Take sandpaper and sand the backing.

Stage 4 Intermediate.

As a result of your manipulations, the following should appear on the table:

opaque part of the scale (1);
old scale (2);
printouts of the new outer side of the scale (3);
scale substrate (4);
tachometer (5);
arrow.

Stage 5 Printouts.

Carefully cut out the printouts with sharp scissors.

Stage 6. Fastening.

Attach the backing to the scale. We attach the opaque part of the scale with double-sided tape. If the glue does not warp the paper at temperature amplitudes, tol can be used.

Here is the opaque part already glued. It is made using photo paper with a black fill. You can use other opaque and thin material.

Stage 7 Assembly of the structure.

We try on the scale using the gap. The holes are indicated by numbers 1 and 2. This is tape that can be seen through the photo paper. This can be corrected by making a plastic backing.

We fasten everything with standard screws.

Panel assembly. The needles will need to be calibrated on the car.

Stage 8. Calibration

We warm up the car well, fix the cooled liquid temperature arrow in the middle position. We release the throttle and set the tachometer needle to idle. Most likely, it is not standing correctly, it may either not move at all or move jerkily. We remove and install it again until it moves as it should! We roll out the gasoline and set the “Fuel Level” arrow to the zero position until the warning light comes on.

First, we string the arrow in the “half tank” position, after which it begins to move, reaching the limiter at the bottom or top. Here it must be removed and quickly put back in place and secured “to zero”. Next, we measure the speed, monitor in which direction and by how much there will be an error, after which we remove the panel and the device itself. We press the internal rotating part, which is at the back of the device, with a screwdriver, and then turn the arrow.

I would like to introduce another technology for transferring drawings, inscriptions and other graphics to the front panel during the manufacture of any device or structure. The idea itself is taken from LUT. The point is how to remove a panel design or inscription from a sheet printed on a printer. As in LUT, a substrate is taken from all kinds of self-adhesive films that can withstand the temperature of a laser printer. Next, we cut out the backing to A4 format, one centimeter shorter in length, and place it on plain printer paper. We bend the edge of the sheet a centimeter and insert a backing under this bend. Printing should occur on the side of the substrate on which the self-adhesive was glued.

Then we print the project.

We take tape or self-adhesive tape to cover textbooks. It depends on the size of the project.

We paste it onto what has been printed, without folds or air bubbles.

We remove the tape or self-adhesive and the printed project remains on the tape, as in this case.

Next, we glue it all onto the prepared surface of the front dashboard. What is shown in the photo is not a finished scale project, but an example of the implementation of the technology. There is another method that I use when designing front panels. The panel design is printed on a plain printer sheet and cut to size with a small allowance. Then it is covered with transparent varnish in several layers with interlayer drying. It turns out like plastic, and does not need to be laminated. Then this leaf is glued to the prepared panel, and the remaining allowance is folded to the back side. An example of what this looks like can be seen in the following photo.

There is one subtlety when gluing a varnished sheet to a prepared panel. Not every glue can be used. Moment, PVA and all other superglues are excluded for the reason that they bleed through the paper and dissolve the varnish coating. You can use double-sided adhesive tape or use rubber glue, diluting it with gasoline to the desired consistency. I have been using these two methods for more than six months now. The first method is good for restoration, the second - for higher quality products. Author of the article: sania.