Micro USB connector pinout. Replacing the connector, power socket When to repair the power connector

Phone, tablet, laptop not charging? We will replace the power connector with a guarantee!

Replacing the connector on the phone;

MicroUSB replacement time is 1-2 hours.
Phone jack replacement cost 600 rubles
Attention! The price is for collapsible phones with a removable battery.

Replacing the connector on the tablet;

The USB replacement time on the tablet is 1-2 hours.
Tablet charging socket replacement price 800 rubles
Attention! The price indicated is for connectors not on the cable.

Replacing the laptop power socket;

The time required to replace a laptop power connector is 1-4 hours.
Cost of replacing laptop charging connector from 800 rubles
Attention! The timing is based on the availability of spare parts.

Replacement of USB connector, laptop port;

The time required to replace a laptop USB port is 2-3 hours.
The cost of 1 connector is 1200 rubles.
The cost of the 2nd and subsequent connectors is 500 rubles.

When should the power connector be repaired?

The device does not charge and does not respond to charging.
There is obvious damage to the power connector.
The device charges only in a certain position.
The device shows charge, but does not charge.

Types of charger connectors:

Micro usb (micro usb) connectors, its replacement.

As a rule, the micro USB charging connector is soldered into the motherboard, but in many Samsung models, the charging connectors come along with the entire lower board (it also contains the microphone and antenna of the phone) because of this feature of the phone, the repair cost is higher than just changing the connector (Samsung is indicated As an example, this feature is found in all brands of phones).

Mini USB charging connector and its replacement.

This type of connector is used much less often on old phones and Chinese phones (more often found on e-readers and navigators). It is soldered into the motherboard; you need to carefully remove it with a soldering iron or hairdryer and install a new one (do not try to install the old connector).

Replacing the charging connector on an iPhone Lightning (or 30-pin in older iPhone models)

On iPhones, changing the charging connector is easier, without the participation of soldering stations, just disassembling and installing the lower cable (there is also a microphone on it) both on old iPhones and on new ones.

There are also other connectors, as on old Nokia, Sony Ericsson phones, and on new Samsung models, they are less common, the principle of operation and replacement is the same, the appearance is just different.

In this article I will tell you how to correctly change the charging socket on a micro USB phone or tablet. This method has been developed over the years, and in my opinion is the fastest and most reliable.

And so let's begin.

To replace we need:

Active soldering flux or weak soldering acid, you can also use aspirin tablets, just be careful the smoke is caustic.
I buy flux RMA-223 in syringes here: http://ali.pub/lqw23
Soldering station is any where there is a hair dryer and a soldering iron.
Suitable micro usb connector.
Tin in a coil, preferably 0.3mm, I take it here: http://ali.pub/mieuo
You can buy tweezers where I get them.
Well, that's all it seems

We leave only the charging connector uncovered with foil and begin to warm it up with a hairdryer, so that the entire area of contact with the board is heated. I make quick circular movements and after about a minute, a minute and a half, the socket is easily removed from the board with tweezers.

Next, we need to prepare a new charging socket; for this we treat all contacts with active flux and solder the contacts with a soldering iron. After soldering, the connector needs to be washed from the active flux; for washing, I use “Galosha” liquid, sold in construction stores. After this, the charging socket is ready to be installed on the board. We warm up the installation site and carefully install the new connector with tweezers, heat until the connector contacts on the motherboard are covered with tin and the socket is in place.

That's all, dear friends, subscribe to my youtube channel, like and visit us again, I have a lot of interesting things for you.

Here are some video examples.

Replacing the charging socket on a Lenovo s6000 tablet:

Replacing the charging socket on a philips xenium e632 phone:

Hi all. Today I will tell you in detail and show you how to change micro-USB connectors and other little things, on your knees,” i.e. at home, without special skills and special professional expensive paraphernalia and substances. Simply armed with inspiration, always helpful optimism, ingenuity, perseverance, patience and enough time.

Yesterday they brought me a smartphone for repair Lumia Denim 630 with a faulty power socket, with the words: “Shows charging - but doesn’t want to charge!” The smartphone looked monolithic, without screws and latches, I thought: Well, that’s a waste! Now you’ll have to warm it up with a hairdryer!”, although after fiddling around it turned out that it’s easy to open, since the insides are in a lid-“trough” that can be easily separated (on the internal latches). Those. Nokia developers have thought out everything in a military way.” For this I give them a tasty like!

The socket appeared to be in good condition outwardly, no cracks were found in the soldering joints, which means, as often happens, the fault lay in worn out contacts inside the connector. I decided to boldly change it to a new one. After the repair, I disassembled the old socket and, indeed, the contacts were covered in dirt, oily felt, and looked worn out. I forgot to take a photo, but in general, see what kind of dead connectors there are, see the photo attached to the article.

A sure sign that the socket needs to be replaced

I bought the nests on Ali Express, in a bunch of about 100 pieces, 10 types, which is convenient.

Set of micro-usb sockets

I found something suitable, but not identical, which had to be modified and filed.

The nest needs to be adjusted

As it turned out later, despite the almost external similarity of the socket, the gold-plated contacts on it did not fit in height, that is, they hovered above the board! Take note!

I adjusted the socket, but did not notice the discrepancy with the original

I had to select a new nest, file it again, and adjust it again, since I didn’t have what I needed.

The nest needs to be adjusted

When adjusting, a slight misalignment of the socket was revealed, i.e. opening the fastening locks of the socket, which had to be put in place, soldered and slightly adjusted to the cover of the smart with a sharp knife.

The nest is adjusted

And all because the nests ordered in bulk are cheap, which means they are simpler, made of not very durable metal, in comparison with the original nests. Native nests, as a rule, are very expensive, made well, reliably, but you can’t stock up on them for any occasion. Ordering relatives in China and waiting tediously is problematic. I decided by disassembling the old nest, weighing the pros and cons, and comparing price tags in Ali.

For desoldering, I use a special hot air gun, although you can completely get by with a construction hair dryer, while being vigilant and attentive so as not to fry everything all around.

Soldering gun

Be sure to cover all plastic parts, capacitors, with confectionery foil or chocolate, otherwise they may melt! Then the damage to your smart phone may come suddenly and unexpectedly! 🙂 I.e. First, you warm up the entire board in a circular motion so that it doesn’t get driven by the propeller from the temperature difference, and then you heat the socket itself in a circular motion (about 300 degrees, check with a multimeter’s temperature sensor or using your intuition and your fingers). Before warming up, it is advisable to simply solder the socket with regular solder with flux or rosin (mix your tin with the factory one, this will make desoldering easier), since the factory solder on the board is often lead-free, which causes problems with soldering the socket.

By the way, for ease of work, I get by with an ordinary silicone pastry mat, since professional roads are expensive.

My soldering mat

It holds high temperatures and nothing slips on it, i.e. the thing is practical and appropriate. I also use a special board holder with alligator clips, with which I conveniently fix the board.

Board holder

I purchased the mat and holder from Ali. In general, you can do without them, including the consideration. 🙂

After desoldering, I use braid moistened with flux or rosin, leaning it with a soldering iron and moving them along the tracks and holes with tin, also pre-lubricated with flux.

desoldering braid

As a result, the braid absorbs all the interfering solder, leaving everything around clean (cool idea!). The only thing keep in mind is that you don’t tear off the tracks and contact patches with the braid! This also happens! Be careful and take your time!

I forgot to say that desoldering the socket with a soldering iron is problematic and risky. Of course, with good experience, you can also desolder in a sophisticated way - with the help of one large drop of solder, covering the entire socket with it and making sure that you don’t “bump” or stick neighboring parts to your mega-drop, etc. But still, this is done masterfully by people with a full hand and experience. Another option is that earlier in workshops (when there were no hair dryers, during the USSR) special nozzles-stings were made (bought) for the necessary connectors and sockets, which made it possible to supply heat to all the required areas at once and easily desolder them. This was an excursion, but for you it’s still easier to use a hot air gun.

Special tips

Ideally, workshops successfully use a special microscope for soldering small parts. I use magnifying glasses, since I can’t afford a good microscope yet, and taking a cheap one is just a waste of money.

Illuminated magnifying glasses

I also use a set of clock screwdrivers for disassembly and assembly; I also use them with pleasure as convenient small cleaners (from rosin on the board), pickers, pushers, lifting element legs, etc. I bought it at the nearest hardware store for a symbolic amount.

Set of cheap watch screwdrivers

The varieties of tweezers that I purchased from Ali and Fix-Price help a lot.” In important cases, women's cosmetic tweezers may come in handy. 🙂

The tip of your family forty-watt soldering iron will need to be sharpened at an acute angle and with a slightly rounded end in order to carefully and effectively crawl up to the legs of the socket and painlessly for neighboring radio elements.

Sharpening the soldering iron tip

Or simply wrap copper wire around a tip and use it as a thin tip, in common parlance: “Mini soldering iron in a hurry”!

Mini soldering iron

It is advisable to buy a cheap power regulator for the lamps, which you will use to regulate the temperature of the tip, so that the rosin on the tip does not quickly turn into carbon deposits, so as not to overheat the conductive paths and so that they do not fly off.

Lamp power regulator

Of course, it is possible without a power regulator, but then you will have to solder with short touches so as not to overheat the tracks and tediously often clean the tip from black rosin oxides. And again - and this is the art of the possible, on the verge of risk. Decide for yourself.

Let's continue. Before soldering, I washed off the used flux from the board with a toothbrush soaked in alcohol (you can also use vodka, but it’s not quite suitable because of the oils), brushing it towards the edges of the board so that the old flux does not smear on the board, fly off the board and led to corrosion of adjacent copper tracks. In general, this generally applies to almost all fluxes, no-clean and neutral, and also applies to rosin, since they are all aggressive to one degree or another and their evaporation is harmful to health to one degree or another (ventilate the room!). Therefore, it is advisable to wash off with alcohol, detergents, etc., and scrape off the rosin and rinse with alcohol (under the rosin, it can also corrode the tracks!). Next, I looked to see if the contact pads were clean and soldered (there shouldn’t be a lot of solder, i.e. no slides, just soldering so that the socket lays flat and is soldered), lubricated the soldering areas with flux (see the photo for flux), laid it down, taking aim.” carefully on the seats so that the socket then coincides with the back cover and solder, periodically replenishing the tip with solder. Well, or if your solder is in the form of a thin wire, bring it to the place of soldering with a tip. If you only have rosin, then simply pick up solder with a tip, then dip it in rosin and quickly, before the rosin on the tip turns into a nasty black mass due to overheating, solder the necessary contact pins to the socket.

Afterwards, be sure to check how you soldered, whether everything looks nice, whether anything is sticking out, or whether there is a so-called. ,snot” between the contact pads, as this can cause a short circuit and is fraught with more serious damage to the device. Use a little braid, if you can’t remove the snot with a sting, it will take away excess solder and deposit tin under the socket leg. If a little remains, then lubricate the area with rosin and lightly use a sting to tear off the remaining tin between the contacts. But don't overdo it, the solder should be in the form of a sufficient droplet covering the contact for a strong contact. Do not skimp on flux (rosin) so that the soldering is electrically conductive (and not the so-called “cold” or “dry” soldering, which does not conduct current).

Now, partially, without screws, we assemble the smartphone, connect the cables, turn it on, check for functionality, if everything is fine, charging is in progress, the battery shows that it is accumulating charge, then we finally assemble it by screwing and closing the back decorative cover.

To clarify the process of replacing the socket, I cut you gifs from a video of a professional working. Look and listen.

Hi all! Today I’ll tell you about replacing the USB connector on the tablet. This replacement is unusual in that it had to be replaced with a regular soldering iron, without a soldering station. It all started when I was far from home, in a neighboring city. My friends, having learned that I was a radio amateur, immediately asked for help in repairing their devices :) The first one turned out to be a tablet with a loose USB connector, which did not even want to charge the tablet, which will be discussed here. First, it was necessary to think about dismantling the broken connector, since it is very easy to damage the printed circuit board, especially with a conventional soldering iron. It was decided to cut through the old connector with needle-nose pliers, and to cut through the upper end of the connector. But first, let's look at our “patient”. Removing the back cover:

In this tablet, it was on the latches, and under it there was already a main aluminum cover, we see a bunch of screws, above in the photo I have already unscrewed them.

We look very carefully, have we forgotten any bolt, have we unscrewed everything that might prevent us from removing the back cover? - Okay, let's take it off.

Now you need to remove the board itself from the top of the tablet. The main thing is not to rush, otherwise we might break something, we check how and with what the board is attached to the tablet, in this tablet - with bolts and latches. We unscrew the bolts.

We disconnect all connectors and cables from the board; to disconnect the cable, simply lift up this connector clamp and pull the cable toward you:

We disconnect the display connector from the board; this tablet uses a connector like on laptops:

All the bolts have been unscrewed, all the cables have been disconnected, and now you can remove the board for further manipulations.

We take out carefully, just like there are SMD parts on the board, and planar microcircuits that can only be soldered with a soldering gun. And if SMD output parts and microcircuits can still be soldered with a soldering iron, then BGA can only be soldered with a hairdryer. We carefully pry off the latches that hold the board; you need to pry it off with something soft, for example, I use a regular SIM card or a bank plastic card for this. By the way, I also use them to disassemble plastic panels of all kinds of gadgets, since you cannot disassemble plastic cases with metal tools - they can be damaged or even broken very easily. Here is the actual board removed:

How to remove a broken connector

You can start dismantling the broken connector, as I wrote above - my tool is far away, but it needs to be done. We begin to bite through the old connector with needle-nose pliers, as shown in the photo below:

We open it very carefully, bend it up and down and break off the contacts so that pieces of the pins remain on the contact pads of the board; the contacts themselves cannot be bitten off with needle-nose pliers - they will fly off the board along with the tracks. We can safely desolder the remaining connector and contacts.

In the photo the contacts are not damaged, I just used a lot of tin for soldering. Use copper wire or braid to remove excess tin, clean and solder a new connector in place.

We solder it well, soldered the connector pins with a regular 25 Watt soldering iron, and soldered the connector itself to the board with a 40 Watt one. After checking for functionality, we clean the flux and twist the tablet in the reverse order, being careful.

A little about soldering irons

Soldering should only be done with high-quality soldering irons, the heaters of which should be well insulated from the tip itself and the metal parts of the soldering iron itself. The soldering iron should not break through at all and accumulate static electricity, so a breakdown of the soldering iron threatens, at best, with the failure of the soldered device, and at worst... guess for yourself :) Static electricity is dangerous for semiconductors: sensitive parts may fail.

Total

That's it, the connector replacement was successful, the repair is complete. As you can see, even in the absence of the necessary tools and a lot of experience, a lot is possible in terms of restoring gadgets with your own hands. Until next time, dear readers. Especially for the site " " - BIOS.

Discuss the article REPLACING A BROKEN USB JACK IN A TABLET