Estonia unit 010 revision. About the Soviet apparatus again. Unexpectedly, a continuation of the banquet arose... - broken balls: when fortunes turn foul. About setting up optics

In the recent past, and to be precise in 2003, I switched from to, initially I drove them with an amplifier from some old reel-to-reel tape recorder (I don’t remember either the manufacturer’s brand or model), then I switched to the Radiotehnika U-101 amplifier but soon it became not enough for me. In 2004, after a long search on the Internet and relevant literature, I bought myself. Then I started searching for a good power amplifier. Unfortunately, in Ukraine it is difficult to find something worthwhile; they mostly offered amplifiers that were not even worth making in a block-by-block design, since their sound did not deserve it. And then one day I was lucky to find two candidates at once, namely: Estonia UM-010 (although I had to take it together with the Estonia UP-010 pre-amplifier) and Priboy 75-UM-204s.
Below are photographs of these technological wonders:

Initially, I was leaning towards the Priboy amplifier, for the reason that there are tubes. After studying the information on tube sound, I abandoned this idea, due to the circumstances that the tubes do not last long, it is difficult to choose tubes with the same sound, the need for acoustics with high sensitivity, and to a large extent the sound depends on the quality of the output transformers, and , looking at their condition, I was horrified, since the winding was simply disgusting.

Speaking in Russian, the S-90 Priboy is simply not able to properly stir.

For this reason I bought the Estonia kit. Let's take a closer look at this kit.

Pre-amplifier Estonia UP-010

When I brought the device home, I wanted to listen to it to decide which is better: Estonia UP-010 or Radiotehnika UP-001. On the aesthetic side, the soul was more inclined to the Estonian, since the width of the Radiotehnika and Estonia amplifiers is different, and the complex would look more attractive. After connecting, it was immediately clear that the amplifier was in a deplorable state; a monotonous whistling could be heard in the high-frequency part of the spectrum - and this indicates that the electrolytes most likely dried out and high-frequency interference appeared. Having applied a signal to the input and connected the Radiotehnika U-101 amplifier to the output (before that I turned on the Radiotehnika U-001 pre-amplifier through the Radiotehnika U-101, so for the purity of the experiment I repeated this circuit) I was deeply disappointed. The sound was unpleasant, a little dry and harsh, but the sound from Radiotehnika U-001 was simply crystal clear, soft, gentle and transparent. It is clear that the amplifier was in a deplorable state, for this reason it is too early to judge the quality, then I decided to look at its circuit (before that I was not interested in it since I already had a preliminary one, but I did not have a power amplifier and it was the circuit I was looking for power amplifiers for myself). Looking at the diagram, everything became clear; the creators actively used microcircuits in the sound path, and not of the best quality. In general, when repairing an amplifier, it was possible to achieve a cultural sound from it, but one should not expect special quality, for this reason it was successfully resold. If anyone is interested, the diagram is shown below.

Power amplifier Estonia UM-010

After which it was time to listen to the power amplifier. Having connected it to the acoustics and pre-amplifier Radiotehnika U-001, listening began.

The amplifier produced excellent sound, the sound was simply fabulous. I really liked the detail throughout the entire audio range. I liked the fact that the sound was soft and unobtrusive, the middle of the sound range was simply wonderfully developed, the highs were also at their best, the cymbals sounded clearly and cleanly (I’ll immediately make a reservation that the comparison was with the old Radiotehnika U-001 amplifier, i.e. in any In case there is a better amplifier, secondly, sound is a relative concept and very much depends on the listener’s ears, and I don’t have specific equipment for taking characteristics).
The bass is specially highlighted as a separate section, since this part deserves detailed consideration. The bass of the amplifier was amazing because the designers made sure that the amplifier had appropriate energy reserves to provide powerful sound. Let's start with the fact that on board we have a powerful trans with a power of about 450 watts, which is more than enough for such an amplifier, capacitors of 15,000 microfarads per channel are also used, it should also be noted that the capacitors are good, and most likely they will outlive the amplifier itself (it was a little surprising how in our country geniuses come up with ideas, but alcoholics, as always, collect them (meaning the Soviet Union)). In general, the amplifier is very successful, undoubtedly there are opinions that it should be thrown into a landfill, but personally I do not agree with this, and in the end it can always be improved and modified, thank God the field for action is quite extensive, you can start, for example, with installation good capacitors, or for example, go through all the transistors and install better ones (not necessarily import, we also knew how to do something). It is also pleasing that there are no microcircuits in the sound path (they roughen the sound a little, and microcircuits of those times simply disfigure the sound). For those who are interested in the diagram, I present it below:

In conclusion, I would like to note that in our homeland they also knew how to make good audio products, although they often did it incomprehensibly with what (definitely not with their hands), but nevertheless, with proper adjustment and appropriate fine-tuning, our equipment easily puts sophisticated imports in its belt, in which the lion's share of the cost of the device is taken for the company.

Lan, thanks for the chat! I really wanted to help, but apparently they sorted it out without the “no snotty ones”....:)))
Thank you for the communication, in any case, it is useful to listen to another opinion, because this is the only way to really understand the essence of the problem... Personally, I would be grateful if you would share some more information about this problem, or about other problems (we have there are quite enough of them on the forum)....;):)
Can you elaborate on the essence of the problem? If it’s a matter of protection, and if I understood correctly what we’re talking about Estonia-010, the protection seems to cut off the 220V power supply, not the speakers. In short, if it is in a 220V circuit, then we connect it directly so that there is power. If it's for speakers, we don't connect the speakers. And we check the presence of constant voltage at the outputs. If it is, then it could be: 1. a break (or fuse) + or - power supply. 2. breakdown of the output or pre-output transistor (determined by plugging the tester into the E-K, naturally with the mustache turned off). 3. Incorrectly adjusted gain. If the tester pointed to transistors, then you need to insert nails instead of fuses, and turn on a 40-60 W LIGHT into the 220V circuit break; if something is wrong, it will limit the short-circuit current. If everything is fine, it will practically not hurt.
about the “Corvettes”: I personally listened (I can’t name the exact brand, but if it’s important, I can find out) with Radiotehnika S400 speakers, that’s power! I haven’t heard such a sound for a long time, but the cost of these speakers is very scary!
Power is not yet an indicator of quality, I had a chance to listen to a friend’s homemade systems, with a power of 30 W the sound was quite powerful and natural (of all the things I’ve ever listened to, this is the best; compared to that system, the scoop nervously smokes on the sidelines, but the cost of the components is not there either commensurate with the cost of the scoop). In general, you need powerful sound for discos, but high-quality sound for home, especially considering that most of the time the amplifier produces low power (for example, my average power is about 2-5 W).
I agree, but I did not use the word “power” in the meaning that you thought! I meant that it was a combination of quality, power and cost + a very good appearance (the cost of this device was at a fairly high level).
Everything is learned by comparison....
I completely agree, everything, especially when it comes to sound, is learned by comparison
Folks, this is not a new topic, but I would like to clarify something. I am now on the verge of purchasing another device, and now I have gotten my hands on this product. Several questions have arisen, so I hope for you: 1 - What resistance is it designed for relative to the speakers: 4 or 8 ohms (the question is fundamental, since in my collection there are no 4 ohm speakers, all are 8 ohms)? 2 - What is its rated output power? 3 - How many speakers can only handle two or four (we are talking about the C90 and its modifications)? 4 - What should you pay attention to when purchasing, what components can fail on an old device? 5 - what price range is typical for it (in good condition), this is important, since the common man has it for one price, and the seller has it for another. 6 - Is it worth taking him to his native unitary enterprise, or is it better to stay at Radiotekhnika UP-001? P.S. I take 4 of these devices at once, so before making a choice, I decided to inquire.
8 ohms, but can also work at 4, although the protection may begin to act up; About 50 W, nominal, real, I don’t know how much is in the passport. Someone measured it more accurately, in my opinion it turned out to be a figure of 40-45 watts nominal, 75-80 maximum. Two, but allows you to include 4 in parallel, of course. But in this case it may begin to be capricious. Require disassembly of the device and make sure that the printed circuit boards are virgin, be sure to check the constant at the output, if it is small, then it can be treated by adjustment, if it is large, the transistors in the exhaust are most likely broken, everything else can be easily treated and do not forget to listen. If you've been picking at it, don't mess with it, as the quality of the PP is poor and the tracks easily begin to peel off. About $100. It’s unlikely that anything more, I bought my kit at a used equipment store for $80. Listen to it, maybe you will like it, since it looks harmonious with the mainframe, but unfortunately UP-001 is not, since it is 30 mm narrower.
Yeah, that means all the speakers are C90B, D, F, all 8 ohms. Will it pump the 90s? I listened, it works, but still: D There aren’t many amps that won’t be capricious with 4 C90s.:cool: UGU, there are a couple with intact fillings, they are first of all yes, I haven’t seen a higher price. It's not really about the appearance, but about the sound quality. Well, this will definitely be learned by comparison, so let’s listen.
In the sense of “pumps up”, do you need quality or decibels? If the quality is - the S-90 plays quite normally from 1 W, a very pleasant volume level is set at 5-10 W, it does not scream, but is far from quiet, the sound is also leveled out, that is, the lack of bass inherent in low volume goes away, a further increase in the supplied power leads to to increase the volume level, practically without changing the quality, so up to about 30-40 W (its nominal value if you remember), a further increase in power makes the speakers play even louder, BUT!, the quality of the mid/high frequencies sharply decreases. If you need it to scream and squeal, then prop up the S-ki with a hefty sub, for example, 2 75gdn, and pump 250 watts of power into it (don’t worry, 75’s generally digest up to 125-150 normally, provided the coil is cooled normally) , but this is a separate story and for such an undertaking it is better not to take Estonians, let them better go to homemade ones / connoisseurs of quality and not volume.
Let me explain, for quality I take Estonians, but for power I take several at once. Soviet technology is important for the event; the room is not large, only about 100 sq.m. so 4 amplifiers and 8 speakers are enough. I thought about corvettes, but changed my mind. There was a thought about my UM-7011 (by the way, I was given his original Up-7010 to go along with it, though it was destroyed to pieces, but that’s even so rare), it pulls four 150Ac jibs normally, but it became a pity. So, as part of my work, I also have professional equipment for events, but the set condition prevents its use. By the way, after all the action, I will get all this wealth, so I will be the happy owner of such equipment in such quantities. (Although one Estonian with a pair of speakers is enough for a home) ANOTHER question: remember speakers such as the Corvette 35AC-028 (analogous to the S90D), they also have an impedance of 8 ohms, are they also available for an Estonian? (it’s just that in the city I’m now the most active buyer of S90V, D, F, I need 8 pieces in good condition (I don’t want to use mine), I’ve already found 6 pieces, but I can’t get the last ones, only the corvette remains)
We remember, we saw, but we didn’t listen. Of course you can connect them to an Estonian, my Estonian generally worked at 4 ohms and nothing....
As I already said, all this will become mine later, so I think not much variety is needed, although it only manifests itself in condition and design.
Yes, if you turn on all that equipment in a small room.....
A friend of mine says this: if I listen to music, the whole entrance listens to it.... BUT, this is only during the daytime.... and when there are no little ones in the apartment.... alas, :(- this does not happen often.. ..
Good afternoon, dear specialists. UM 010 Estonia, when turned on, the red protection signal is constantly on. Moreover, when the power is turned on, the speakers hear a characteristic click, but there is no noise. How to check its performance in the absence of a preamplifier?
send a signal through a simple volume control, level 1...1.5V (and not 0.5V as before)
Most likely one of your channels has died; if there is a loud bang when you turn it on, then this is a constant output. And regarding the pre-Estonia 010, I completely agree (I had 2a myself), the sound leaves much to be desired, I heard the end, but I wasn’t overly delighted, maybe I didn’t hear it. I myself have a Corvette 048, although I modernized it, overall it’s not bad.

Hello, dear Datagorians!
I share with you my own experience in mastering the Arduino UNO board and the Atmega 328 controller that is installed on it. This board was purchased a long time ago, and was quietly waiting its turn for some very first craft in the back drawer of my desk.

The line arrived unexpectedly. I have an Estonia 010 vinyl player, which is a fully automatic machine. I put on the record and pressed two buttons: “Network” and “Start.” The player will do the rest for you. Up to a certain point, the player worked, conscientiously performing its functions, when suddenly it stopped showing signs of life, completely refusing to move the tonearm and not responding to pressing the control buttons.

Historical background

This is “Estonia 010”, which our industry produced in the 80s of the last century. The characteristics are impressive. Nominal frequency range, Hz - 20...20000. Detonation coefficient, % - 0.08. Relative rumble level, dB -74. Dimensions, mm - 480x108x384. Weight, kg - 12.
Like many other things (), this device is a slightly less successful Soviet copy of a foreign one, namely the SHARP Optonica RP-7100. For example, quartz stabilization of drive speeds, etc., is not implemented.

And here is the prototype - Japanese Optonica.

The author of the photos is Optonics - Gonchar, Moscow

When I opened the Estonia, an automation board appeared before me. And another scarf! It houses over 20 packages of Soviet logic chips and opamps. Seeing so many chips, I winced and threw the board out of the player.
I really didn’t want to poke the oscilloscope probe into it.

I soldered two parts: the K155ID4 song indication decoder and a resistor for powering the infrared LED that is installed on the additional tonearm in the record pause detector.

Instead of the original filling, it was decided to try to adapt “that same Arduino” for control. And work... I'd be lying if I said it was boiling. The work began to gurgle lazily in the free time for gurgling.

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Thank you for your attention!

We have three relays, an indication of their position, pull-up resistors of the limit switches, a song number decoder, and a KR544UD2 op-amp with trimming resistors to regulate the operating threshold and amplify the signal from the phototransistor.

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Thank you for your attention!
Igor Kotov, editor-in-chief of Datagor magazine

const int analogInPin = A5; // keys int sensorValue = 0; // read value void setup() (Serial.begin(9600);) void loop() ( sensorValue = analogRead(analogInPin); Serial.print("sensor = "); Serial.print(sensorValue); delay(200) ;)
I launched the “Terminal” program, configuring it with the following parameters: data exchange rate 9600, 8-N-1 and the COM port on which Arduino was detected. I have COM12.
After the connection was established, numbers ran across the screen, which changed depending on the pressing of one or another button. By simply copying them onto paper for each button pressed, I was able to figure out the entire range of values, which I then (with small tolerances) inserted into the main sketch. The sketch was edited using the Arduino 1.7.8 program.

About setting up optics

Oh, and it’s a difficult job, removing a raccoon from a swamp...
The sensitivity setting is immediately set to maximum, we operate only with the threshold. You can't go anywhere without an oscilloscope. We set the scan to slow so that the green dot barely crawls across the screen, stand with the oscilloscope at the output of the op-amp and begin to rotate the sensitivity trimming resistor upward until the voltage changes from 2.5 to 3.5 or more volts.

The voltage will change abruptly. We rewind just a little so that the voltage again becomes 2.5 Volts. Slowly move the tonearm over the record. If the voltage jumps to 3.5 Volts while the sensor passes over the pauses, we are very lucky, we praise the tin god by burning rosin incense for him and don’t touch the trimmer again.
If not, put a white sheet of paper under the sensor to make sure that it is working and we haven’t messed up anything in the circuit. As a rule, there is an error-free work on a white sheet of paper.

If the voltage level changes on the white sheet, but not on the pause on the plate, then we try to adjust the sensor by slightly changing its height above the plate. After confidently working on pauses and correct connection to the motor and solenoid, the device begins to work properly and does not require further adjustment.

Estonia 010 Stereo - block stereo complex, music center.

Production since 1983 at the Talin plant Punane-Rat

The stereo complex consists of separate blocks: a tuner, a pre-amplifier, an electric player and two active speaker systems.
The tuner has two bands - VHF and MF, silent tuning in the VHF range, fine tuning indicator, mono - stereo indicator, automatic shutdown of the automatic frequency converter when tuning, a voltage calibrator for adjusting the recording level of an external tape recorder, and a multi-beam reception indicator.
The preamplifier has separate volume, balance and tone controls, switching of two stereo tape recorders, low- and high-pass filters, switchable loudness compensation, a device for fixing a flat frequency response, LED indication of the input signal level, an overload indicator, and electronic protection against short circuits in the load.
The electric player has software control of the tonearm, disc rotation speed regulator with stroboscopic control, micro-lift and auto-stop.
The set-top box tape recorder has a bias current adjustment, an LED indicator of the recording and playback level, an electronic tape meter, and a “noise reduction” system.
The music center included an acoustic system: 35AC-021

Technical data:

- Rated output power - 2x50 W;
- Sensitivity in the ranges - 2 MKV (VHF); 100 MKV (LW, NE, HF);
- Reproducible frequency ranges - 20-20000 Hz;
- Detonation coefficient - 0.08%;
- Disc rotation speed - 33 and 45 rpm;
- Magnetic tape speed - 4.76 cm/s;
- Interference level in the channel - "-54" dB;
- Power consumption - 260 W.

Dimensions: 460x390x400 mm (complex); 540x330x320 (AC);
Weight: 53 kg. (complex); 19 (AC)

Initially, I drove them with an amplifier from some old reel-to-reel tape recorder (I don’t remember either the manufacturer’s brand or model), then I switched to the Radiotehnika U-101 amplifier, but soon that wasn’t enough for me either. In 2004, after a long search on the Internet and relevant literature, I bought myself a Radiotehnika up-001 pre-amplifier. Then I started searching for a good power amplifier. Unfortunately, in Ukraine it is difficult to find something worthwhile; they mostly offered amplifiers that were not even worth making in a block-by-block design, since their sound did not deserve it. And then one day I was lucky to find two candidates at once, namely: Estonia UM-010 (although I had to take it together with the Estonia UP-010 pre-amplifier) and Priboy 75-UM-204s.
Below are photographs of these technological wonders:

Speaking in Russian, the S-90 Priboy is simply not able to properly stir.

For this reason I bought the Estonia kit. Let's take a closer look at this kit.

Pre-amplifier Estonia UP-010

Power amplifier Estonia UM-010

After which it was time to listen to the power amplifier. Having connected it to the acoustics and pre-amplifier Radiotehnika U-001, listening began.

Darova. Explain how to connect all this to me. My protection turned on on the power amplifier and does not turn off. Please help...
Write which speakers you connect to the amplifier, try to check by turning on the amplifier without speakers since it has resistance protection (recommended 8 ohms)
Hmm, the preliminary one let us down, but according to the description, the amplifier is just right. By the way, whose production is this? USSR?
The preliminary one is not so hot, but the power is really good (at least the corvettes are better, and this is an opinion from reviews, I never listened to it myself). Personally, I was based solely on my experience, so I can’t reliably say who is cooler. Our production, USSR: D. I don’t remember exactly, but in principle I can look at the nameplate of the amplifier.
yes, sort of
Are you currently loading the Estonia UM-010 amplifier onto Radiotehnika S-90 speakers?
Yes, what next?
the protection doesn’t turn off. we somehow got screwed... this protection turned off one speaker and it turned off and worked for 3 days; on the third day I turned it up to listen. and then the protection doesn’t turn off anymore.....
Try to replace all electrolytes related to protection, they dry out over time and the protection parameters go away. Then it won't help to just pick at it.
Yes, the funners load up with anything they can find, and then questions arise about protection! ....First, turn off the low frequencies on the equalizer....And then check the PA to see if it starts up at frequencies above 30 kHz...If it’s not difficult...:(
Didn't you get something wrong? Personally, I didn’t complain about anything, everything works fine and there are no problems, read the posts more carefully.
Lan, thanks for the chat! I really wanted to help, but apparently they sorted it out without the “no snotty ones”....:)))
Thank you for the communication, in any case, it is useful to listen to another opinion, because this is the only way to really understand the essence of the problem... Personally, I would be grateful if you would share some more information about this problem, or about other problems (we have there are quite enough of them on the forum)....;):)
Can you elaborate on the essence of the problem? If it’s a matter of protection, and if I understood correctly what we’re talking about Estonia-010, the protection seems to cut off the 220V power supply, not the speakers. In short, if it is in a 220V circuit, then we connect it directly so that there is power. If it's for speakers, we don't connect the speakers. And we check the presence of constant voltage at the outputs. If it is, then it could be: 1. a break (or fuse) + or - power supply. 2. breakdown of the output or pre-output transistor (determined by plugging the tester into the E-K, naturally with the mustache turned off). 3. Incorrectly adjusted gain. If the tester pointed to transistors, then you need to insert nails instead of fuses, and turn on a 40-60 W LIGHT into the 220V circuit break; if something is wrong, it will limit the short-circuit current. If everything is fine, it will practically not hurt.
about the “Corvettes”: I personally listened (I can’t name the exact brand, but if it’s important, I can find out) with Radiotehnika S400 speakers, that’s power! I haven’t heard such a sound for a long time, but the cost of these speakers is very scary!
Power is not yet an indicator of quality, I had a chance to listen to a friend’s homemade systems, with a power of 30 W the sound was quite powerful and natural (of all the things I’ve ever listened to, this is the best; compared to that system, the scoop nervously smokes on the sidelines, but the cost of the components is not there either commensurate with the cost of the scoop). In general, you need powerful sound for discos, but high-quality sound for home, especially considering that most of the time the amplifier produces low power (for example, my average power is about 2-5 W).
I agree, but I did not use the word “power” in the meaning that you thought! I meant that it was a combination of quality, power and cost + a very good appearance (the cost of this device was at a fairly high level).
Everything is learned by comparison....
I completely agree, everything, especially when it comes to sound, is learned by comparison

***
Electronics D1-014-quadro
It cost then (1978) 614 rubles. Weighed 20 kg. I can’t imagine how much 20 kg can be stuffed in there.
The circulation and current value are unknown, as is the availability of living copies.

***
Its predecessor is Jupiter Quadro, amplifier (1975)
It cost 500 rubles back then. Eyewitnesses claim that these amplifiers have been collecting dust on store shelves for years. And indeed, the policy of the party and government on this issue is vague: the amplifiers were riveted, but what to do with them? There are no recordings or means of reproduction.
As far as I understand, it was produced over several years. For some reason. The circulation is probably several thousand.
The price is now in the range of 5000-10000 rubles.

***
How come there are no means of reproduction, you say here, if here is Jupiter Quadro, mafon. It was produced in the mid-70s there, in Ukraine.

A mysterious thing, I will answer you, and it is more illusory than anything else in this raging world. Regarding currently existing copies, there are pictures on the Internet only from the Museum of Communications in St. Petersburg. There is no description of the TX. It is clear that it is made on the basis of Jupiter-202-stereo. Not clear:
- is there a recording function at all (there is no such button visible);
- I wonder what kind of heads there are;
- is there a built-in amplifier or is it a set-top box? In Jupiter-202 there is; if there is one in this, then why is there a separate amplifier of the same name described above? Here on the tape recorder at the bottom of the knobs there are the inscriptions “front”, “rear” - what is this, if not amplification? But here they are complete with an amplifier:

Why is this so? The amplifier in the tape recorder is bad, but the separate amplifier is good? (A guy with a smart look is selflessly twisting something, despite the fact that the right handle is in the “stop” position - lol.)
They write that at that time it seemed to cost 1,500 rubles. Circulation unknown. On the plaque for the museum specimen you can read “Prototype”. However, there are people who claim that they heard and felt this whole thing in everyday life in those distant years.

The quads are over, the main part has gone.
***
Complex Estonia-010
Like a worthy choice of a respectable person.
Ripped off from Sharp Optonica.
As a rule, a complete complex is considered to consist of: two amplifiers (pre-amplifier and power amplifier), a tuner (010, then demoted to T-110S, but they are exactly the same), a turntable and speakers like 35AC-021. This is where people calm down. All this is now not uncommon and quite understandable, so we won’t dwell too much, but let’s go over it for the sake of order.

*
Vertak. It looks fashionable and mysterious.

No, it's not a spare tonearm. This is a sensor for automatic recording search. The diode shines, the plate reflects - something like that. You could press buttons and it would jump through songs. As far as I know, this is the only Soviet helicopter with such a gadget. However, people complain that all these bells and whistles are quite unreliable and often fail.
It costs around 4000 now.

*
Tuners, twin brothers, and amplifiers.

*
UP and UM in a rare black color.

*
Now we are plunging into the world of the unknown.
To all this wealth, especially advanced ones add the Estonia LP-010-stereo CD player.

Well, as they add... it doesn’t fit inside the rack, only on the very top. Because he has a CD that goes in there, see?

Those. It's either vinyl or CD. Well, or you can put one of them somewhere to the side.
The prototype in this case was Philips-100, but the design was left to Sharpovsky.
Circulation 50 pcs. - "a former factory worker said."
However, there is also this statement: “I personally saw this Estonia (precisely with TOP loading) on FREE sale in GUM. It cost like 1100 rubles, I don’t remember exactly”

*
Well, another ghost - the Estonia-110-stereo cassette player.

Anonymous saw the design sample. Somewhere and once he existed, and perhaps not even alone.
"as the person claims, several models were made during development, but nothing went on sale"
According to other statements, several dozen or even 100 copies were made. Very doubtful; out of such a quantity something would certainly come out, but at present nothing is observed.

*
Did you think that was all? And then suddenly - wake up!

We look from bottom to top, first there are familiar objects: UM, UP, tuner... And then - the queen of heaven! - What is this?
- Dynamic light installation. (As I understand it, the device only flashes its lights cheerfully and does nothing else. And yes, there’s also a clock in it.)
- Graphic equalizer
- Video game block. Why it is needed, no one knows. Connects to TV; what happens next is unknown. But also with a clock.

Presumably, these three items exist in single copies and are the fruit of folk art of individual plant workers. In the era of late perestroika, they distorted it as best they could. Something between self-made and experimental samples.
Especially deliver over9000 headphone outputs.
Well, higher up there is no longer Estonia..

*
Here is the data on the quantity produced (everything there is in Estonian, and Google, out of some fright, sometimes translates ESTONIA as IRELAND - yyy!):
IRELAND-010 stereo - receiver 1982-92 total 13,121
IRELAND-010-stereo - preamp 1982-92 total 35,347
ESTONIA-010-stereo - Disc 1982-92 for a total of 29,762
ESTONIA-010-stereo - power amplifier 1985-92 for a total of 34,896
25AS 021 - a total of 73,398 sound systems in 1985-90
IRELAND-001-C - laser disc player 1987-89 with a total of 2454
http://raadiotuba.and.ee/retpunaneret.html

***
As far as one can judge, towards the end of the 80s it was planned to launch the next series of Estonia equipment. But then the cheerful breeze of perestroika blew in, and total chaos began. Old plans collapsed, and what could be mastered was released.
The following came out of the new line.

***
Estonia LP-001-S

Ripped off, in turn, from Philips CD204.
Unlike the LP-010, where almost all the parts were domestic, it was cobbled together mostly from bourgeois components.
The link above declares that a total of 2454 pieces were produced. But there is a heated argument about this.
The range of price tags for this device is very wide - from 2,000 to 25,000 rubles. depending on how it is perceived: utilitarian or collectible.

The same thing, only a prototype
“It still exists, there are already 2 of them, one in the homeland, the second in MSC”

*
Estonia-35U-016, complete amplifier (unlike two separate units of the previous series).
There is mention of 600 copies produced. It is possible that this was the case.
However, it is not prohibitively expensive - about 6,000 rubles. UPD 11.2015 Just recently he left for 30,000. Looks like they are hiding something from us...

*
The following devices probably exist only in a few prototypes.

Estonia EP 016 C, vertical.
There is no release information. TX in the third picture.
No one has seen any living specimens.