The best tower cooler for CPU. Comparative testing of various processor cooler models

In my, so to speak, worldly life, I professionally deal with the problems of cooling electronics. In fact, this is a very difficult question - I struggle for months to find the optimal solution that meets the high requirements - theoretical calculations, simulations and thermal analyzes. We won’t go deep into theory; everyone already understands that processors need to be cooled, but we still need to identify the problem. Let's take, for example, the familiar Intel Core i5 processor. Not the most powerful processor today, but its heat dissipation can reach 85 W! But the area of ​​the processor itself is not very large, so it turns out to be a “boiler”. Well, it’s warming up and let it warm up, but it’s not allowed. A simple chip or transistor without proper cooling will simply stop working, and a smart processor will go into performance limiting mode.

I’ll say right away that the quietest cooling system of 2015 and any other - this is a simple radiator, blown by the natural movement of air inside the computer case. But to solve our problem, one radiator is not enough. Modern processors generate enormous power in the form of heat and the radiator simply cannot cope. Therefore, you need to additionally use a fan to quickly move air between the fins, and most likely the radiator needles. The fact is that in nature everything strives for balance. Roughly speaking, when two bodies with different temperatures come into contact, they tend to equalize their values. Those. The hotter body will transfer some of its heat to the colder body until they become the same temperature. It’s the same with the processor and radiator - the processor heats up, and gives off some of the heat to the radiator, and the radiator already dissipates it into the environment. But the air does not accept this heat well and the radiator does not have time to give off the excess, everyone heats up, and ultimately the processor overheats. When we install a fan, hot air leaves faster and cooler air comes in its place. It is ideal when nothing in the case interferes with the direct passage of air - air enters through the first hole, passes through the radiator, removes heat, and exits through the second hole. Somehow I went into theory again, I apologize.
Naturally, when we install a fan, the noise level emanating from the computer case increases significantly. You don’t want your computer to start sounding like an airplane taking off under load. But technology is constantly moving forward and quiet fans are widely available on the market today. Below I have selected several models that meet the high rank - quietest coolers 2015. I admit that I was not very honest and looked for coolers only by noise level. I will correct it as I write the review.

The mini rating itself

The first contender in our ranking is. He looks simply gorgeous - he looks like he’s red-hot, however, look photo Thermalright SilverArrow IB-E Extreme below. And the noise level is only from 21 to 45 dB. This is not much, but the upper limit is quite high and it is unlikely to become the very best. A huge plus of this cooler is the large number of sockets on which it can be installed. For the i5, in terms of cooling, it will be enough.

The next contender is . Similar to the previous one, this is an almost universal cooler, but it is too noisy to win - 24.6 dB.
Buy Noctua NH-U14S You can go to the stores using the links below.

I couldn't pass by because of the name. But the name turned out to be not the only advantage - it will cool our processor without particularly straining, and at the same time the noise level is in the range from 17.8 - 27.3 dB. Well, handsome, if that matters to anyone.

The fourth will be - . Advantages: universal, good cooling, interesting design. Disadvantages: inconvenient to install, non-removable fans. Noise level – 22-24 dB. There is a backlight. If you want buy Zalman CNPS12X follow the link.

Well, the latest model is . All good, just like its competitors. The noise level is 13.2 - 19.6 dB, which is an excellent result. Price for Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 somewhere nearby, on the page.

Conclusion

Who should be awarded first place in the ranking? quiet models of cooling systems 2015"? You know, there are a huge number of such systems, my selection is just a drop in the technological ocean. Choose for yourself! Decide for yourself what price category is right for you, what noise level is acceptable for you, and how you need to cool the processor. The noise level is, of course, an important factor, but still secondary. Thank you for taking the time to write my article, please leave feedback and share your solutions.

Over time, our laboratory has accumulated many different fans. And the beginning of the summer heat is the best time to find out which cooling is the best. Since the most popular size for modern PCs is 120 mm, we’ll start with that. When choosing models, we did not adhere to any one criterion. However, most of the reviewers are case fans in the low to mid speed range. Without further ado, let's get started.

A unique fan of its kind that can independently regulate the rotation speed within the range of 300-1350 rpm depending on the temperature. Despite the “Japanese high-precision hydrodynamic bearing” and “high-quality Japanese thermal sensor” (as written on the packaging), it has the characteristic PWM crackling and ear-irritating clicking noise throughout the entire speed range, so it’s difficult to call it quiet. And the speed control algorithm is not at all obvious.

This model is a little more similar to regular fans than the company's other products. Completely black, standard frame. The blades are small with longitudinal stripes, the purpose of which is to reduce air flow turbulence and reduce aerodynamic noise. The starting voltage is 3.5 V at 400 rpm. The maximum rotation speed of the impeller is 1350 rpm. The fan is very quiet. Up to 900 rpm (7.5 V) it is difficult to position by ear even at close range. However, slight vibrations of the frame are still noticeable.

The next generation of one of the world's quietest fan series, Silent Wings. Today, the entire Dark Wings line has been renamed Silent Wings 2. The distinctive features of these models are high-quality hydrodynamic bearings, an impeller with characteristic longitudinal stripes that improve acoustic performance, and special vibration-isolating mounts. The propeller starts at 3V running at 400rpm and remains silent all the way up to 8V and 1100rpm. Even at the maximum 1500 rpm, the impeller rotates very quietly. No extraneous sounds are heard, regardless of the orientation of the propeller. There are no vibrations.

Representative of a simplified and cheaper version of Silent Wings. The main difference is that instead of a hydrodynamic bearing, a standard threaded bushing is used to distribute the oil evenly. For the average user, this means slightly more noise and less time between failures. Starts at 3 V (600 rpm), is silent up to 5 V (1100 rpm), an annoying buzzing noise appears starting at 7 V and 1500 rpm. Maximum speed - 2200 rpm. If you listen closely, you can notice the slight rustle of the bearing throughout the entire range.

A fan that can be disassembled into parts. The maximum rotation speed is 900 rpm, starts from 3 V and 300 rpm, but the flow is practically not felt. The bearing used is called Twister bearing - it is a sliding bushing with magnetic stabilization. It operates silently or very quietly throughout the entire range. The light clicking of electronics can only be heard if you really want to.

The only fan in our test specifically designed for blowing radiators. The seven long, shallow blades should create good static pressure. Instead of the usual legs holding the stator, the Noctua NF-F12 PWM is equipped with eleven fixed blades, the task of which is to straighten and focus the air flow. The bearing used is Noctua's proprietary SSO2 (hydrodynamic, magnetically stabilized). The rotation speed of the impeller is controlled using PWM modulation in the range from 300 to 1500 rpm. The power connector is four-pin. If a three-pin one is used, the starting voltage will be 5.5 V and the rotation speed will be 700 rpm. The fan produces an annoying, clearly audible hum starting at 750 rpm. Perhaps the unusual frame design is to blame.

It’s not for nothing that the inscription on the spartan-looking packaging says that this is a “secretive and silent fan.”

A completely ordinary 120 mm model with nine unusually curved wavy blades. Made of smoky plastic, the cutting edge of the impeller is stylishly painted to resemble metal. Silent up to 5 V and 900 rpm. Up to 7 V and 1100 rpm it is subjectively quiet. Then aerodynamic noise occurs. Maximum speed - 1500 rpm.

A classic fan that is well known to enthusiasts for its combination of price and performance. Made in black, not counting the stickers on the stator and rotor. A reinforced sliding bushing is used as a bearing. Capable of starting at 4.5 V (800 rpm). It vibrates quite strongly, which indicates poor balancing. The engine hums, although from a distance of 150 mm it is no longer audible. Up to 6 V and 1100 rpm it is relatively quiet. Starting from 8 V (1400 rpm) it is easily determined by ear, and from 9 V to 12 V (1500-1800 rpm) there is noticeable noise from the engine and impeller.

The direct successor to the popular Zalman ZM-F3 received a number of improvements. The most important of them is a new hydrodynamic bearing. The frame has acquired a beautiful gray tint, and the classic seven-blade impeller is made transparent. The fan starts at 4 V (500 rpm), up to 7 V (900 rpm) is silent. In the rest of the range (9-12 V at 1100-1500 rpm), aerodynamic noise is heard, which is not particularly annoying. Has no overtones in any orientation. There are vibrations, but they are minor.

A fan designed to impress with just its appearance. Completely in white, with black rubberized inserts at the corners. The impeller is nine-bladed, with “shark fins” at the tips. Rotation starts at 3 V (500 rpm). Remains relatively quiet up to 5 V and 850 rpm. However, already from 6 V (950 rpm), the noise is noticeable and only increases to 12 V (1500 rpm).

Obviously, the main parameter characterizing the efficiency of any fan is the ratio of the noise level to the generated air flow. Therefore, the two main instruments for us were a sound level meter and an anemometer. In addition, such parameters as voltage, current and impeller rotation speed were recorded for each specific fan. Static pressure was not measured due to the lack of necessary equipment. Let us note in advance that the results obtained do not claim to be absolutely accurate, but they can be considered accurate relative to each other and demonstrative in terms of comparing fans with each other.

To test 120 mm fans, we used a stand consisting of:

• a special device consisting of a voltmeter/ammeter/reobass (supply voltage range 1.5-12 V, current measurement range 0.001-0.999 A);
• fan controller: Scythe Kaze Master Pro KM03-BK;
• anemometer UNI-T UT362;
• sound level meter UNI-T UT352;
• 600 mm pipes, diameter 115 mm;
• power supply model SPP34-12.0/5.0-2000 (12/5 V, 10-24 W).

The noise was measured from a distance of 10 mm in front of the fan bearing, which was in a vertical position and suspended on a vibration decoupler. The background noise level in a quiet room without extraneous sound sources was 34 dB(A). The minimum sensitivity of the sound level meter is 30 dB (A). A comfortable sound pressure level can be considered 40 dB (A), relative to how it is felt from a distance of 150 mm. Subjectively close to silent is the threshold of 37 dB (A) at the same distance.

Since we are studying fans from the point of view of their use as case fans, to measure the volume of air flow, a pipe with two holes was used, simulating an “ideal case” - without planes that create obstacles to air movement. The inlet hole corresponded to the diameter of the fan being tested, and the outlet hole corresponded to the diameter of the anemometer impeller. A bench anemometer is unable to record an air flow of less than 30 m³/h, so results above this threshold are presented.

The rotation speed and current strength were noted depending on the supplied voltage, in steps of 1 V, starting from the start for each specific fan. Since the fan speed and its consumption change due to obstacles in front of or after the impeller, we took measurements on a free-hanging fan, isolated from vibrations, and only then measured the air flow in our improvised housing with an anemometer.

Fan Specifications

Results

The obtained measurement results are presented in the form of a summary graph, where the volume of air flow is indicated vertically, and the noise level created by the fans is indicated horizontally. The results are quite easy to interpret. The more the curve deviates up and to the left, the better the fan is in terms of noise/performance combination. The closer to the right edge and lower the line runs, the less air the propeller can pump at a high noise level.

At low speeds, the Thermalright TR-FDB-12-800 also falls into the category of the best, which has the same performance as the Enermax UCTB12, but is 2 dB (A) quieter.

Among the most productive models were be quiet! Shadow Wings SW1 120mm, Noctua NF-F12 PWM and Zalman ZM-F3. The latter was also one of the most high-profile models in terms of performance, which, however, is excusable given its retail price.

The outsider in terms of efficiency was the Zalman ZM-SF3. It was louder than everyone else, and it managed to slightly outperform the old Zalman ZM-F3 in efficiency only at speeds close to maximum. As for the Zalman ZM-F3 FDB, the new model is definitely better than its predecessors, outperforming them within the available speed range.

Let's look at the maximum performance, without taking into account the noise level. There is nothing unexpected here; the fans are distributed in direct proportion to their maximum speed. The higher the speed of the impeller, the more air it can drive, no matter what shape the engineers come up with for the blades.

Results

Let's paraphrase the classic - all fans are needed, all fans are important. We will not draw conclusions beyond labeling them as best or worst, winners and losers. More appropriate here are short conclusions on each model separately, describing the advantages, disadvantages and possible scope of application. So, let's look at the propellers in order:

A very specific and niche model. It may be suitable for those who do not want to buy a fan controller, or for those whose board cannot control their speed. It is not particularly quiet or productive, showing average results. The price of the product is quite affordable, which can cover the shortcomings.

Without exaggeration, it can be called one of the best fans in the world in terms of noise characteristics and workmanship. Demonstrates good performance with a relatively low noise level. Has a wonderful package. Completely justifies its high cost.

Quite an ordinary, well-made fan with a good airflow to noise ratio. The market value is much lower due to the lack of a delivery kit. May be recommended for purchase.

High-quality fan with high rotation speed and adequate air flow. In terms of noise, it is inferior to models with hydrodynamic bearings, especially at low speeds. Can be recommended if peak performance at maximum speed is required.

Quiet fan with beautiful appearance and slightly overpriced. It makes virtually no noise and creates an air flow of average power. Can be used in quiet-oriented system units without a fan controller.

Premium product. Noctua engineers don't eat their bread in vain. The idea of ​​focusing the air flow in combination with high static pressure bears fruit - the fan is able to deliver a portion of fresh air without loss to the farthest corner of the case. However, the model is designed with a focus on productivity, contrary to the general concept of the company. Despite the low sound pressure level, the acoustic range of the Noctua NF-F12 PWM is not very comfortable for human perception. Especially at above average speeds. Can be recommended for use on air coolers, or as a blower fan in a case.

This is a “set it and forget it” fan. In terms of the combination of noise/performance/price, this model is the best in the class of low-speed models. The bearing has no extraneous noise, and no reduction in rotation speed is required. Can be used as a case fan in any orientation, but requires vibration isolation.

The fan has pleasant acoustics and very low starting voltage. Overall, a very decent model in terms of performance, noise and appearance. Considering that the choice of good fans with white backlight is not so wide, we can recommend them for use on processor radiators, cases and power supplies.

It has good performance at high speeds, for which you have to pay with an equally high noise level. Suitable for use in any system unit nodes if the performance-to-noise ratio is not critical. However, the main advantage of this fan is the combination of low cost and high power. A good choice for office or production PCs.

The fan is ideal for use as a case fan. Among other Zalman models, it demonstrates better air flow with lower noise levels. In terms of the combination of price/silence/power/availability, this particular propeller is quite capable of dominating the mid-price segment. If you need to equip a system unit with 5-8 quiet turntables for minimal money, this is candidate No. 1.

The last and, unfortunately, far from the best fan. Its only advantage is its aggressive and unusual appearance. From the point of view of acoustic comfort, the model is extremely unsuccessful. It can reach the standard level of performance only at speeds close to maximum.

Let us summarize the test results obtained. It is safe to say that hydrodynamic bearings are the future of the fan industry. They have the best balance of performance, noise and durability. Aerodynamic optimization of the impeller plays a secondary role in performance, but is important for achieving good acoustic performance, as is vibration isolation of the frame. The main factors affecting the power of a fan are the rotation speed, size and angle of attack of its blades.

Any computer enthusiast, and there are a majority of them on our site, should know– What parameters should you pay attention to when choosing a cooler for and how do these small turntables differ from each other? Is it worth buying a tower cooler or is the boxed version enough? WITHIs it worth installing “dropsy” and what is Power Dissipation?I will try to answer all these questions today.

So, when they come to the store to choose a little spinning comrade for their processor, many users’ eyes begin to run wild. And this is not surprising; today the market offers a huge number of models at a wide variety of prices. Conventionally, coolers can be divided into three categories.

Boxed and heatpipe-less coolers

The simplest models on the market, consisting of an aluminum plate with fins and a fan attached to them. Almost every processor model has two versions for sale.

First - BOX version(hence the name of boxed coolers), which includes the processor itself and a simple cooler without heat pipes included.

Second version - OEM, which includes a bare processor. By the way, boxed versions usually have a much longer warranty on the product, but that’s not what we’re talking about today.

(BOX cooler DEEPCOOL THETA 9 for CPU Intel Pentium G4560)

As we can see, in this case the price is slightly different, and it differs precisely because of the included cooler and the extended warranty.

And the first question that I often get asked is: Should I buy the BOX version or buy the turntable separately? It all depends on the price and purpose of your PC. In this case, the difference is 1250 rubles, which is quite noticeable. I recommend taking the boxed version of the processor if the difference does not exceed 400-500 rubles. Plus, a bonus in the form of a big guarantee is never superfluous. As for the purpose of your computer, everything is simple, if your gaming or workstation is from the entry-level and mid-price segment, then the boxed version will be quite enough for you. If your system is closer to the top options or if it will be overclocked (during overclocking, the amount of heat generated by the processor due to increased voltage on the stone increases greatly!), then you need to buy a more advanced fan model separately. The advantages of boxed coolers include low price and compactness. The downside is that they are not suitable for powerful machines and, due to their small size, they are often quite noisy. So we've sorted out the boxes, let's move on to the next category of turntables.

Liquid cooling systems or, more simply put, “dropsy”

They consist of a copper base that is installed on the processor cover, a small pump that circulates water, a pair of tubes and a radiator with fans.

The next question I’m asked regarding cooling is: is it worth installing “dropsy”? I’ll answer right away that no. If you analyze all the pros and cons of these systems and compare them with the pros and cons of tower coolers, it becomes clear that the latter are much more advisable to buy.

Tower coolers with heat pipes

The next category of processor cooling is tower coolers with heat pipes. They consist of a copper or aluminum base, from which several heat pipes extend, to which a radiator is in turn attached. And the cooler is already attached to the radiator.

If you compare them with water cooling systems, the first thing that catches your eye is the price. Dropsy is always much more expensive. This is the first reason why I don't recommend using them. Yes, they run a little quieter and cool a little better, but is it worth paying twice as much? Everyone decides for themselves. The second reason is the complexity of operation and mandatory additional care. For the average user, checking the pump and water pipes daily is an unnecessary hemorrhoid. In general, the final decision is yours, but I outlined my position.

CPU cooler options

So, after you have decided on the choice of cooling type, you can move on to the parameters on which the final choice of a particular model will be based. The first thing to look at is the type of sockets supported. Almost every online store has this feature. If not, then you know where to look - the manufacturer’s website. I will analyze everything using the example of my processor (i5 6400) and my cooler (DeepCool Gammaxx 400).

My stone has 1151 sockets, so the cooler should be installed on the same socket.

Let's go further and look at the size of the turntable. It should fit into the housing in such a way that the side cover of the housing closes smoothly. By the way, I am often asked whether it is worth closing the case completely or leaving it open. Definitely needs to be closed! If the case is open, the air flow inside the system is disrupted and the cooling of the components becomes worse. Also, dust penetrates inside more easily, and dust, along with high temperatures (I will never get tired of saying this) is the main evil of computer hardware! I'm getting off topic a little, let's get back to the height of the pinwheel. The specifications for any case indicate the maximum possible height of the processor cooler,

and the characteristics of the cooler include its height, length and width. I think it will not be difficult for anyone to compare these data.

The next very important parameter is power dissipation. The processor specifications always indicate the amount of heat generated by the processor itself.

It is heat dissipation that is the sworn enemy of our cooler and it is with this that he fights every day to ensure stable operation of our stone. In general, the cooler must be able to dissipate all the heat generated by the processor. To do this, look at the power dissipation column indicated in the characteristics of the turntable.

But under no circumstances choose a cooler with a power dissipation equal to the heat dissipation of the processor. The thing is that cooler developers very often overestimate this parameter, so I recommend buying a cooler with a small margin. And if you are going to overclock your processor, then feel free to multiply the TDP of the processor by 2 and get real heat dissipation. Of course, the amount of heat during overclocking depends on the degree of overclocking itself, but in any case, always take a cooler with a small margin.

Next, be sure to look at the size of the fan. If you read my last article about, then you already know the main rule when choosing cooling. The more blades, the better. The thing is that small fans, in order to cope with the same amount of air, need to spin much faster than large ones. And the faster the cooler spins, the more noise it makes and, as a rule, wears out faster. Therefore, I advise you not to look at the parameter showing fan revolutions per minute at all. It’s more accurate to look, but make your choice based more on the size of the turntable. For example, a 120 mm turntable with 1200 rpm will be many times quieter and more efficient than an 80 mm turntable with 2400 rpm.

The next, no less important parameter is the maximum air flow.

The quieter the fan, the better.

To cool the processor, a cooler is required, the parameters of which determine how high quality it will be and whether the CPU will overheat. To make the right choice, you need to know the dimensions and characteristics of the socket, processor and motherboard. Otherwise, the cooling system may not install correctly and/or damage the motherboard.

If you are building a computer from scratch, then you should think about what is better - buy a separate cooler or a boxed processor, i.e. processor with integrated cooling system. Buying a processor with a built-in cooler is more profitable because The cooling system is already fully compatible with this model and this package costs less than buying a CPU and radiator separately.

But at the same time, this design produces too much noise, and when overclocking the processor, the system may not be able to cope with the load. Replacing a boxed cooler with a separate one will either be impossible, or you will have to take the computer to a special service center, because... Changing at home is not recommended in this case. Therefore, if you are building a gaming computer and/or plan to overclock the processor, then buy the processor and cooling system separately.

When choosing a cooler, you need to pay attention to two parameters of the processor and motherboard - socket and heat dissipation (TDP). A socket is a special connector on the motherboard where the CPU and cooler are mounted. When choosing a cooling system, you will have to look at which socket it fits best (usually manufacturers write the recommended sockets themselves). Processor TDP is a measure of the heat generated by the CPU cores, measured in Watts. This indicator is usually indicated by the CPU manufacturer, and cooler manufacturers write what load a particular model is designed for.

Main Features

First of all, pay attention to the list of sockets with which this model is compatible. Manufacturers always indicate a list of suitable sockets, because... This is the most important point when choosing a cooling system. If you try to install a heatsink on a socket that is not specified by the manufacturer in the specifications, you may break the cooler itself and/or the socket.

Maximum operating heat dissipation is one of the main parameters when choosing a cooler for an already purchased processor. True, TDP is not always indicated in the cooler's specifications. Minor differences between the operating TDP of the cooling system and the CPU are acceptable (for example, the CPU TDP is 88W, and the heatsink is 85W). But with large differences, the processor will noticeably overheat and may become unusable. However, if the TDP of the radiator is much higher than the TDP of the processor, then this is even good, because The cooler will have more than enough power to do its job.

If the manufacturer has not indicated the TDP of the cooler, then you can find out by Googling the request on the Internet, but this rule applies only to popular models.

Design Features

The design of coolers varies greatly depending on the type of radiator and the presence/absence of special heat pipes. There are also differences in the material from which the fan blades and the radiator itself are made. Basically, the main material is plastic, but there are also models with aluminum and metal blades.

The most budget option is a cooling system with an aluminum radiator, without copper heat-conducting tubes. Such models are small in size and low in price, but are poorly suited for more or less powerful processors or for processors that are planned to be overclocked in the future. Often comes bundled with a CPU. It is noteworthy that there is a difference in the shapes of the radiators - for AMD CPUs the radiators are square, and for Intel they are round.

Coolers with prefabricated radiators are almost obsolete, but are still sold. Their design is a radiator with a combination of aluminum and copper plates. They are much cheaper than their counterparts with heat pipes, but the cooling quality is not much lower. But due to the fact that these models are outdated, it is very difficult to choose a socket suitable for them. In general, these radiators no longer have significant differences from their all-aluminum counterparts.

A horizontal metal radiator with copper tubes for heat removal is one type of inexpensive, but modern and efficient cooling system. The main disadvantage of designs that use copper tubes is their large dimensions, which do not allow installing such a design in a small system unit and/or on a cheap motherboard, because it may break under its weight. Also, all the heat is dissipated through the tubes towards the mother card, which, if the system unit has poor ventilation, reduces the effectiveness of the tubes to nothing.

There are more expensive types of radiators with copper tubes that are installed in a vertical position rather than horizontal, which allows them to be mounted in a small system unit. Plus, the heat from the tubes goes up, and not towards the motherboard. Coolers with copper heatpipes are great for powerful and expensive processors, but they also have higher socket requirements due to their size.

The efficiency of coolers with copper tubes depends on the number of the latter. For processors from the middle segment, whose TDP is 80-100 W, models with 3-4 copper tubes are ideal. For more powerful processors of 110-180 W, models with 6 tubes are already needed. The specifications for a radiator rarely indicate the number of tubes, but they can easily be determined from a photo.

It is important to pay attention to the base of the cooler. Models with a through base are the cheapest, but the radiator connectors get clogged with dust very quickly, which is difficult to clean. There are also cheap models with a solid base, which are more preferable, although they cost a little more. It’s even better to choose a cooler that, in addition to a solid base, has a special copper insert, because it greatly increases the efficiency of inexpensive radiators.

The expensive segment already uses radiators with a copper base or direct contact with the surface of the processor. The effectiveness of both is completely identical, but the second option is smaller and more expensive.
Also, when choosing a radiator, always pay attention to the weight and dimensions of the structure. For example, a tower cooler, with copper tubes that extend upward, has a height of 160 mm, which makes placing it in a small system unit and/or on a small motherboard problematic. Normal cooler weight should be about 400-500 g for average performance computers and 500-1000 g for gaming and professional machines.

Fan Features

First of all, you should pay attention to the size of the fan, because... the noise level, ease of replacement and quality of work depend on them. There are three standard size categories:

• 80x80 mm. These models are very cheap and easy to replace. They can be installed even in small cases without any problems. They usually come with the cheapest coolers. They produce a lot of noise and are not able to cope with cooling powerful processors;
• 92x92 mm is already a standard fan size for an average cooler. They are also easy to install, produce less noise and are able to cope with cooling mid-price processors, but are more expensive;
• 120x120 mm – fans of this size can be found in professional or gaming machines. They provide high-quality cooling, do not produce too much noise, and are easy to find a replacement in case of breakdown. But at the same time, the price of a cooler equipped with such a fan is much higher. If a fan of this size is purchased separately, there may be some difficulties in installing it on the radiator.

There may also be 140x140 mm and larger fans, but this is for TOP gaming machines, whose processor is subject to a very high load. Such fans are difficult to find on the market, and their price will not be affordable.

Pay special attention to the types of bearings, because... The noise level depends on them. There are three in total:

• Sleeve Bearing is the cheapest and most unreliable example. A cooler that has such a bearing in its design also produces too much noise;
• Ball Bearing is a more reliable ball bearing, it costs more, but also does not have a low noise level;
• Hydro Bearing is a combination of reliability and quality. It has a hydrodynamic design, produces virtually no noise, but is expensive.

If you do not need a noisy cooler, then additionally pay attention to the number of revolutions per minute. 2000-4000 rpm make the noise of the cooling system clearly audible. In order not to hear the computer operating, it is recommended to pay attention to models with a speed of about 800-1500 per minute. But keep in mind that if the fan is small, the speed must vary between 3000-4000 per minute for the cooler to cope with its task. The larger the fan, the less revolutions per minute it must make to properly cool the processor.

It is also worth paying attention to the number of fans in the design. Budget options use only one fan, while more expensive ones may have two or even three. In this case, the rotation speed and noise production can be very low, but there will be no problems in the quality of processor cooling.

Some coolers can adjust fan speed automatically based on the current load on the CPU cores. If you choose such a cooling system, then find out whether your motherboard supports speed control through a special controller. Pay attention to the presence of DC and PWM connectors on the motherboard. The required connector depends on the type of connection - 3-pin or 4-pin. Cooler manufacturers indicate in the specifications the connector through which the connection to the motherboard will occur.

In the specifications for coolers, the item “Air flow” is also written, which is measured in CFM (cubic feet per minute). The higher this indicator, the more efficiently the cooler copes with its task, but the higher the level of noise produced. In fact, this indicator is almost similar to the number of revolutions.

Attaching to mother card

Small or medium-sized coolers are generally secured using special latches or small screws, which avoids a number of problems. In addition, detailed instructions are included, which tell you how to fasten and what screws to use for this.

Things will be more complicated with models that require reinforced fastening, because... in this case, the motherboard and computer case must have the necessary dimensions to install a special pedestal or frame on the back of the motherboard. In the latter case, the computer case should not only have enough free space, but also a special recess or window that allows you to install a large cooler without any problems.

In the case of a large cooling system, what and how you install it depends on the socket. In most cases these will be special bolts.

Before installing the cooler, the processor will need to be lubricated with thermal paste. If there is already a layer of paste on it, then remove it with a cotton swab or disk soaked in alcohol and apply a new layer of thermal paste. Some cooler manufacturers include thermal paste with the cooler. If there is such a paste, then apply it; if not, then buy it yourself. There is no need to skimp on this point; it is better to buy a tube of high-quality thermal paste, which will also have a special brush for application. Expensive thermal paste lasts longer and provides better CPU cooling.

List of popular manufacturers

The following companies are the most popular in the Russian and international markets:

Also, when purchasing a cooler, do not forget to check whether there is a warranty. The minimum warranty period must be at least 12 months from the date of purchase. Knowing all the features of the characteristics of computer coolers, it will not be difficult for you to make the right choice.

A lot of articles, both useful and not very useful, practical and theoretical, have been written on the topic of how to decide on the choice of a cooler for a processor. The choice of models in stores is huge; they differ in design, size, cooling efficiency and price. Moreover, thanks to the efforts of marketers, the latter parameters are not always identical.

There are times when a great looking, painted and hyped supercooler performs mediocre. The opposite situation also occurs, when a mediocre manufacturer produces a very successful model. Therefore, when choosing, it is worth considering the various elements of the system from all sides, and only after careful analysis make an informed decision.

The main purpose of the cooler is to cool the processor, which occurs by removing heat from the processor cover and subsequent dissipation into the surrounding space. An important point in this regard is such an indicator as the thermal conductivity of the radiator material.

Thermal conductivity is the movement of thermal energy in a material from an area with a higher temperature to an area with a lower temperature due to the movement of microparticles, or, we can say, it is simply the ability of an object to transfer heat. Silver has the best heat transfer performance, however, it would be interesting to look at those who want to buy a cooling system made from such a material

For the industrial production of radiators, copper and aluminum are used, with slightly inferior characteristics. In general, an active cooler consists of a metal radiator attached to the processor cover and a fan. There are also passive models - they are without a fan. The fan increases the rate of heat dissipation many times over. Under no circumstances should this be allowed!

Types of coolers for processors

Such devices can be classified rather conditionally, given that until recently some types were not produced at all. Having analyzed a lot of information on the Internet and the range of products offered, we can distinguish two large groups:

• Boxed coolers and coolers without heat pipes are the simplest models, consisting of an aluminum plate with fins, in some cases having a copper base and a fan attached to it. They often come bundled with a processor when sold; they are called “boxed”. They have limited cooling capabilities, but are easy to install and perform their duties at standard processor frequencies. The included fan is of low quality, which is why as the rotation speed of the blades increases, a computer with such a cooler may produce additional noise.
• Heat pipe cooling systems - work by removing heat using a fluid circulating in hollow tubes made of aluminum or copper. They have the best efficiency indicators, but are often equipped with non-standard mounting, some are heavy, and are equipped with fans of different quality.

The first cooling option is not worth considering in detail. If you plan to work in normal mode, with an average-performance processor, without experimenting with overclocking, and the noise level is not a critical indicator, you can be content with any simple cooler. In principle, you can reduce the noise level by correctly setting the fan speed using the BIOS or.

The second cooler option requires closer attention and has many additional characteristics that ultimately determine the buyer’s choice.

Computer coolers with heat pipes

The first idea of ​​using heat pipes to reduce the temperature of cooled units was patented by the USA back in 1942. Its essence was that inside the pipes, sealed on both sides, there was a liquid substance that evaporated at the place of heating, the steam moved to the cold zone, where it condensed, releasing thermal energy, again forming a liquid that returned to the place of heating.

They were used exclusively for industrial purposes; they did not think about any high-performance computers at that time. The tubes can be without filler inside, in which case they must be directed upward so that the condensate drains under the influence of gravity, or with a porous structure, in which case the shape of the tubes does not matter, and the circulation of liquid occurs due to the pores.

Now tube coolers occupy the majority of the market. Their design can be generally described as follows: there is a base (sole) of the cooler, pressed against the processor, tubes are soldered into it, on which aluminum plates are mounted to help dissipate heat. Conventionally, such products can be divided into various subtypes:

• With direct contact, when the tube directly interacts with the heat distribution cover of the processor;
• Without direct contact, when only the base of the cooler interacts with the processor.

It is difficult to say which type is better. The majority of users claim that direct contact is more effective. From practice, we can say that the alternative option copes with its functions very well. Here one should take into account the fact that the working fluid begins to evaporate only at a certain temperature, from 25 to 50 degrees. That is, until this moment, heat removal occurs only due to the metal parts of the radiator, and the base serves as the main heat sink.