• Plywood flight box. Restoration of drawers

    Drawers, for example a desk, are usually overflowing with a wide variety of papers and objects, and they are pulled out and pushed in quite often and abruptly. Naturally, they wear out quickly. Cracks appear, guides wear out, side walls break, back stops fall out, and so on. So, old boxes need qualified repairs and restoration.

    Since the end of the 18th century, the sides of drawers have traditionally been fastened with a tongue. The lower part slides in the grooves of the front part. No matter how durable the boxes are, the friction that occurs when manipulating them inevitably leads to wear and tear on the contacting parts. Gradually, wooden surfaces wear out, drawers begin to creak and, eventually, they can jam, which in turn leads to deformation of the furniture frame.

    Mandatory preparatory work

    Before you begin, you should carefully inspect the drawers to understand the design of the guides and sliding surfaces, and also make sure that they need to be disassembled and repaired. There are several assembly methods depending on the purpose of the furniture and the placement of the drawers.

    For any restoration work, first of all, it is necessary to refresh the wood, that is, carry out preventive work: eliminate cracks, fungus, and traces of insect activity.

    Condition of the furniture frame

    First of all, you need to make sure that the furniture is durable and sufficiently rigid. With the drawers completely closed, check that the guides on which they slide are securely fastened. The absence or presence of frame distortions can be easily checked using a plumb line and level. Even slight wear of the legs makes the entire frame unstable and disrupts its horizontality, which makes it difficult to pull out and push in drawers and accelerates the wear of the wood. In such cases, it is necessary to disassemble the furniture and re-glue it after eliminating the defects of individual parts. The lower part of the box is attached without gluing in the grooves, with several nails at the back wall.

    Over time, the bottom of the drawers wears the most. Changes in the original dimensions perpendicular to the direction of the wood grain can reach 5%; as a result, the bottom attached with nails to the back wall of the box can form a small gap with its front part. Therefore, carpenters are in the habit of leaving a small margin at the back of the bottom. In this case, it is enough to pull out the nails, push the bottom of the box forward, then insert it into the grooves of the front part and hammer the nails in again. If the bottom consists of two boards glued together, you should make sure that they are securely glued before installing the bottom in place. If the reserve is not initially provided, a small wooden spacer is used to eliminate the gap.

    Spikes: The “spike” connections are easy to disassemble, but the spikes themselves break quite rarely. Gently pry them apart using a wedge and a mallet. Wood glue or fish glue is usually used for joining. Remains of old glue can be removed quite easily with hot water and a brush. After cleaning and drying the parts, re-glue them using the recommended grades of glue.

    Side walls: the presence of grooves makes the lower part of the side walls of the drawer most susceptible to wear. This is where you can often see cracks, and worse, chips. To preserve the original wood as much as possible, the broken pieces can be glued with fairly strong polyvinyl acetate glue (PVA). Its use is recommended only for fastening parts that should not be disassembled later. To preserve the color scheme of the wood, PVA glue can be tinted with pumice. Reinforce the restored parts with small bamboo spikes. Do not use nails: as a result of wear and tear on the wood, their heads may protrude and damage the sliding guides.

    If a chipped piece of wood is lost, carefully process the chipped area with a small hacksaw and glue a new, specially cut piece of appropriate size to it.

    The most common areas of wear are the bottom edges of the side walls at the back of the drawer. They may become bent or even break. In this case, they should be aligned and then glued on a suitable thin spacer cut from wood. When processing the outer part of the side wall, you cannot use a classic plane; to remove a minimum layer of wood and level the surface, a chisel or a special small plane is more suitable, the front part of which is removed, and the cutting blade slides in front of the tool.

    To restore the side of a drawer, cut a thin spacer from suitable wood with a small allowance for adjustment. Then glue, and after the glue has dried, saw off the protruding parts.

    Using a ruler, mark a cut line on the side of the box so as to preserve as much of the old wood as possible. For convenience, place the box on the workbench in a vertical position.

    Guides: they are mounted on the side walls of furniture and consist of several parts. The guide block is glued into the grooves of furniture posts or legs and serves as a support for the drawer. His sides always come forward.

    The guide bar is attached to the sliding surfaces and, when moving, gives the box a direction parallel to it. The length of the bar should be approximately equal to two-thirds of the length of the box. At its base, on the side of the drawer, a bevel is made at an angle of 45 to facilitate processing with a plane when installing it on the sliding guide.

    Finally, an expansion bar rests on the top of the side walls and prevents the drawer from swinging when it is fully open. In the rear part, opposite the rack, there is a small wooden stop that limits the movement of the drawer in depth.

    How to carry out repairs?

    As a rule, guides made of soft wood contribute to wear and tear on furniture. After dismantling, you can turn them over and use them again. This will eliminate the need to cut and glue the gasket, and the furniture will be better preserved.

    If you cannot remove the guides, you need to plane the bearing surface and install a gasket. But using a plane in narrow places is difficult and sometimes impossible. In this case, it can be recommended to clean the area with the defect, apply a polymer resin (ED-5 or ED-6) to it and glue a thin wooden plate.

    A small addition: adjust the guide slightly above the cross beam of the front part, if it is overhead. This way it will not be damaged when opening the box. Missing or worn guides must be replaced, as they are absolutely necessary for the normal operation of the furniture. Loose stops must also be secured in place or replaced.

    Don't forget about the locks

    Broken or missing screws or empty mounting holes indicate poor performance of the drawer locks. Reinstall the locks using new mounting screws and pre-cleaning and lubrication.

    		 Typically, the wood fibers in the lower, back part of the box are directed in the same direction as on its front part. The bottom of the box is nailed to the back wall.

    		Often the nails rust and are therefore not easy to remove. Saw them with a hacksaw blade, then remove the bottom, install it in the grooves of the front part and secure it with several nails.

    		Tenon joints come unglued quite often. Before you begin removing any old adhesive residue with hot water, remove the sides of the drawer. You can use a knife or chisel to remove large amounts of old glue.

    		To attach tenon joints, it is preferable to use glues of animal origin (carpentry or fish glue). To make gluing more effective, heat the bonded surfaces with a paint remover or over a hotplate, while observing fire safety rules and extreme caution.

    		Tighten the parts to be glued together with clamps, paying special attention to the correct installation of the corners. For this purpose, you can use two slats: compare the length of the diagonals, which should be absolutely the same.

    		Sectional view of the box:
    1. Compensation beam.
    2. Sliding guide.
    3. Side guide.
    4. Side wall of the box.
    5. The lower part (bottom) of the box.

    		Using an electric drill at low speed, drill holes for the bamboo tenons. Such spikes, with a small diameter, have sufficient strength, so they penetrate deep enough into the wall of the box without splitting it.

    		For more effective gluing, move the damaged parts as far apart as possible. If necessary, completely replace the contacting parts and secure them with bamboo spikes.

    		The small height of the side walls of the box can make it somewhat difficult to tighten them with a clamp. To compensate for the difference in levels, place a small stop on the back of the side wall, and then other stops on top and bottom.

    		Turn the box over and use a ruler to make sure the top and bottom planes of its side walls are parallel. If the front side is strictly horizontal, as a result of wear, a noticeable bevel may appear on them, descending towards the back wall of the box.

    		Completely eliminate the bevel using a plane, thereby restoring the horizontal planes.

    		Use a jigsaw to cut the appropriate spacer along the grain of the wood. Before sawing, the surfaces to be glued must be carefully planed with a plane, since if the gasket is small, it will be impossible to clamp it in a vice.

    		Carefully apply PVA glue to both surfaces to be glued. The glue, usually white, in this case is tinted with pumice. After the glue dries and is processed with a plane, the gluing line will become almost invisible.

    		For proper installation, the gasket is made with a small margin in height, width and length.

    		To process the glued gasket, use a special plane. Remove any protruding parts, being careful not to damage the wood of the furniture.

    		Using a ruler, mark a cut line on the side of the box so as to preserve as much of the old wood as possible. For convenience, place the box on the workbench in a vertical position.

    		Over time, sliding guides, made of soft wood, expand and increase in height. Thus, they wear out more and more, and burrs form, preventing the drawer from sliding out.

    		If it is not possible to remove the guides, plane them in place to remove burrs. Only the sliding guide is processed, while the side guide bar serves as a support.

    		Glue a spacer cut from durable wood such as beech to the surface of the side rail. In this case there is no need to allow for post-processing of the gasket; adjust its position in place before gluing, as this operation will be difficult later.

    		Due to limited access to the processing area, planing slide guides and bars without dismantling furniture requires certain skills, as well as the use of special tools, such as a plane with two replaceable blades.

    		The last stage of work on restoring the guides is the adjustment or replacement of the stops. In this case, the wooden support is nailed to the back post of the desk without removing the drawer from it.

    Product distortions will be eliminated thanks to the correct working methods and devices.

    You only have a few minutes to assemble the project pieces, line up the edges, and tighten the clamps. By the way, are you sure that all the angles are right? With the right tools and accessories, and a few helpful tips, you can achieve perfect results every time without any fuss.

    Assembly accuracy depends on the squareness of the parts, so before you start processing parts, make sure that your equipment (saw, planer, planer and other machines) is set up correctly. Then prepare a flat, clean work surface for assembly. For successful work, master one or more proven techniques to help avoid distortions.

    One part aligns with another

    Dry assemble the box and rock it from side to side to make sure the bottom is inserted into the tongues to ensure a square assembly.

    If all the parts in your project originally had right angles, they will align with each other when assembled, provided that the clamps are installed correctly. As shown in top photo, The hangers of the crossbars, cut exactly at right angles, automatically level the frame. The trick is to direct the compression force of the clamps perpendicular to the edges of the parts. If the clamp is placed at an angle, the pressure may cause it to become distorted.

    Another way to make the assembly self-leveling is to have the plywood bottom or back panel fit snugly into the tongues or grooves to keep the box or body square. (photo A).

    Do you need gaps around the bottom or panels to compensate for seasonal humidity fluctuations?

    To assemble a box with a bottom, insert the assembly template into it and secure it with clamps. The pressure of the clamps is distributed by pressure bars installed next to the connections, and not on top of them.

    Make a simple assembly template that fits snugly into the drawer opening (photo B), and make cutouts on its corners so that it does not stick to the parts.

    When assembling drawers where straight tenons protrude slightly at the corners, use spacers or pressure blocks as shown in (photo B), so that the jaws of the clamps do not touch the joints. This method is also useful when assembling dovetail joints.

    According to the template

    A metal mounting square can be used to accurately align and secure simple butt joints. (photo C), which holds the parts at right angles to each other and prevents them from moving. If you prefer to make your own, make your own mounting brackets of any size (photoD). Quick tip! No mounting brackets? There is a way to ensure that the parts of a butt joint remain stationary when gluing. Apply glue to the end of one piece first, then press both pieces together, rubbing them together to distribute the glue. Separate them for 10-15 seconds, let the glue dry a little and become more viscous and sticky, and then rub the parts together again. Increasing the viscosity of the glue will help avoid shifting of parts when installing clamps.

    This mounting bracket, thanks to its rounded outer corner, fits snugly on both parts to be glued.

    When determining the dimensions of a homemade mounting square, make cutouts in it that match the jaws of the clamps you have.

    Other homemade leveling devices are clamping bars or strips of arbitrary sizes with cutouts that hold parts in the desired position and at the same time distribute the pressure of the clamps (photo E). Prism bars with V-shaped grooves will help to tightly tighten the parts of the corner joints.

    Cutouts in the clamping bars prevent the parts from shifting, and prism bars, tightened diagonally with clamps, compress the parts together.

    The steel band of this clamp distributes pressure to all four corners, tightly tightening the joints of the jammed parts.

    Some clamping fixtures, due to their design, help ensure that the joint is square. For example, a band clamp with four corner blocks (photoF) and four-way screw clamp for frame assembly (photoG) Allows you to align all four corners at the same time.

    Four-way screw clamps, commonly used for gluing frames, can be used in pairs to assemble drawers. Metal corner pieces help achieve squareness.

    Compare the lengths of diagonals without measuring them with a tape measure

    Even without a square that you can trust, you can check the squareness of the assembly by comparing the distances between opposite corners. If the diagonals are equal (and the opposite pieces are also the same length), you can be sure that all the angles are right. If clamps interfere with measurements using a tape measure, or if you are gluing several identical products, try a different method. Cut two thin slats from the scraps. The length of each of them should be more than half the length of the diagonals. Then cut one end of each strip at an angle of about 30°. Pressing the bevels against opposite inside corners of the assembly, fold the slats together and secure them with a clamp. Then use the same straightening rod to measure the other diagonal to ensure the assembly is square. To correct the distortion, use a long clamp to carefully tighten opposite corners along a longer diagonal.

    This article will describe in detail the manufacture of a box for equipment, spare parts, batteries and tools - the so-called flight box. But this box was made taking into account the fact that there is a car for trips to the field, and therefore it is quite large and heavy.

    Materials:
    - plywood (4mm)
    - glazing beads
    - wooden blocks 25x15 mm
    - PVA glue
    - varnish
    - self-tapping screws
    - carnations

    Purchased parts:
    - door handle
    - loops
    - hook locks
    - legs

    Tools:
    - wood hacksaw
    - jigsaw
    - ruler
    - square
    - pencil
    - sandpaper
    - hammer
    - iron
    - brush

    Since I have little experience in furniture design programs, I also made the box in such a program - PRO100. A file with the *.sto extension is a drawer project with all dimensions. But in general, a given box, depending on your equipment and tools, may have completely different sizes and a different number of internal drawers.

    Step 1. Cutting out the drawer parts

    First, we buy a sheet of plywood 4 mm thick. You can make it thicker, but then the box will be even heavier, which is not very desirable.
    The transportation process (and the acquisition itself, of course, will be different for everyone, but for a box you need approximately this sheet of plywood - 1.5 x 1.5 meters).


    Then we cut the sheet into the required parts and lightly sand the edges.




    From a block (15x25 mm) we cut out four long and four short blocks, and from the window bead we cut off pieces of the same length for the corners of the box.




    We cut out the internal partitions and make half-width cuts in the parts of the crosspiece with a jigsaw.



    Step 2. Aligning the parts

    This step is optional, since if you are lucky enough to purchase even plywood, you will not have to level it. Otherwise, this process will take a couple of extra days. In general, the Internet is full of information on how to straighten plywood, but I’ll tell you briefly.
    So, to begin with, pour hot water over the cut pieces (I filled the bathtub with water and threw all the parts there).
    Then use a heated iron (preferably with steam) to smooth out the uneven parts. You can directly on the tiled floor.


    Now we lay the heated parts on a flat surface, possibly in several layers.


    We cover the top with even planes of chipboard or tool boxes and press down with a weight. I used basins and water bottles.


    Since I have a heated floor in the bathroom, the parts were smooth and almost dry after 24 hours. But it may take another day for the plywood to dry completely.

    Step 3. Gluing the box

    In the future, all parts will be additionally fastened with screws and nails, but first the parts must be glued with PVA glue.
    On the sides of the box we draw lines along which the glazing beads will be glued. Then we glue the glazing beads (a distance from the edge of 4 mm, equal to the thickness of the plywood).


    On the sides of the lid we similarly draw lines and glue glazing beads.


    Leave them for half an hour for the glue to dry.


    Then, along the pre-drawn lines, we glue the slats with a cross-section of 15x25 mm to the sides.


    We do the same with the sides of the lid.


    Then we place the parts under the press and leave until the glue dries completely.
    Once the glue has dried, you can glue the internal partitions to the sides of the box and strips of plywood to the bars.


    Using a square and improvised objects, glue the end wall to the side wall.


    Then we glue the second side and end walls, secure with nails and leave until completely dry.




    We glue the bottom and additionally fix it with nails in the corners (in glazing beads) and self-tapping screws (in slats).


    We glue the inner walls to the sides of the lid.


    We glue the lid directly to the base.


    And we glue narrow strips of plywood, thus forming a gap for the inner lid. The inner cover itself is made of one layer of plywood and glazing bead, behind which it will be pulled out.

    Step 4. Sanding and varnishing

    We place the lid on the box, press it down and sand all surfaces with sandpaper to even out the joints.


    We cover the box with acrylic varnish in two layers.




    The inner cover is in one layer.

    Step 5. Screwing the hinges, locks, handle and legs

    We make small recesses for the hinges and screw them to the lid with self-tapping screws.


    Then we screw the lid to the box, close it and mark the places for the locks. We also fasten the locks with self-tapping screws.




    We glue a strip of plywood to the inside of the lid to strengthen the place under the handle.


    Mark and drill holes for the bolts.


    Screw on the handle.


    We screw plastic legs to the bottom of the box with self-tapping screws.

    Step 6. Making internal drawers and partitions

    We glue plywood partitions inside the box.


    This is how the equipment and boxes with bolts and other small things will be located.

    I think many people have encountered the problem of cracked transparent plastic shelves and drawers in the refrigerator. The aesthetic component suffers, but, most importantly, functionality suffers.

    Buying new ones is not an option; they may not be available at all or may no longer be available. You can try gluing it together.

    Shelves are often made of polystyrene, as can be seen by the PS symbol on the shelf. The question arises, what to glue with.

    Several times I tried to glue polystyrene parts with superglue (cyanoacrylate). Doesn't stick well, takes a long time. I have not checked how reliable the connection is, but experience with things glued together with cyanoacrylate indicates the low reliability of such repairs.

    The search turned up some glue for models, which is designed for gluing polystyrene. I didn’t have to look for it for long; I bought it at a children’s goods store, 70 rubles for 12 ml. Naturally, there are other options like dichloroethane, but I decided to stick with this one.
    So let's get started.

    I don’t know how glue is applied when assembling models; I found it appropriate to use a disposable syringe for these purposes.
    The syringe didn't melt from the glue, lucky.

    For testing, I filled the syringe with about 0.2 ml of glue. Lightly pressing the piston, I ran it along one of the surfaces to be glued. The glue comes out easily; at first I couldn’t control the uniformity of application well.

    The smell is very strong, don’t even think about gluing in an unventilated area.

    After applying the glue, I pressed the parts together. A large amount of excess glue came out. I tried to wipe it off with a paper napkin. It was erased, but traces of glue remained. There is quite a lot of plastic in the glue, which is why the marks are noticeable.

    The glue set very quickly. I didn’t press the parts to be glued, I just left them to dry. The smell of glue from the part was still felt several hours after gluing. I believe it is better to wait at least 12 hours at room temperature for the toluene and ether to evaporate satisfactorily.

    Having gained some experience, I continued the repairs. Next up is the box.

    It turned out that with some skill, glue can be applied with a needle in a fairly even, thin layer, moving the needle along the surface of the plastic. With this application, excess glue almost does not come out of the seam.

    This time the glue also set quickly; I didn’t hold the piece down.

    It didn’t turn out very smooth, but there’s no point in getting a perfect result.

    Those who have glued with superglue know that it has very low surface tension, it spreads well over the surface, there will not be even the smallest hole where it will not flow.

    The model glue that I used does not have the ability to flow into all the cracks. So I anointed the emerging cracks with it, but I don’t think it did much to prevent their growth.

    After 12 hours, the shelf and drawer were washed with hot water and soap and took their place


    Trying to understand why drawers break, I came to the conclusion that the culprit is not only the user’s careless attitude towards fragile plastic parts. The problem is also in the design. For example, my refrigerator has two vegetable drawers at the bottom of the main compartment. When you slide them in, they hit the front edge of the glass shelf with force, while the drawer strives to continue moving. As a result, it broke at the point where the load was applied. There are two solutions here - either raise the shelf, or attach something soft to the back wall of the drawer or compartment itself. Foam rubber is not suitable here, but I think a piece of heat-insulating “foam” will be just right. The same goes for other problem areas. Before gluing, eliminate the causes of cracking, otherwise repairs will turn into monkey labor.

    george_gl 12-07-2016 22:53


    What are your thoughts?

    KM 12-07-2016 22:55


    A crack appeared on the side of the box almost the entire height. I decided to glue it together because it is problematic to buy a box in the provinces. Regular transparent plastic. The idea was to clean the area of ​​the crack with alcohol, apply cyanoacrylic along the crack, compress it, and then glue a piece of plastic to the side inside.
    But at work they said that maybe the glue would release something... epoxy would be better...
    What are your thoughts?

    At one time there was a problem with a transparent container. I didn't use any glue. So if it is ABS, then look for ABS glue, but it is expensive.

    george_gl 12-07-2016 22:59

    Drawer, Whirlpool, refrigerator 6 years old

    george_gl 12-07-2016 23:29

    It's disappointing, but I'm thinking of a similar option, the tire is only inside.

    APavel 12-07-2016 23:55

    Cyanocrate, like a bastion of democracy, was invented during the Vietnam War as a means of quickly repairing wounds. Probably in the refrigerator. less dangerous than having a hole in the carcass
    Z.y. I may be wrong. If so, please let me know

    Generalissimo Stalin 13-07-2016 12:47

    if you find dichloroethane, the ideal thing for gluing polystyrene (the box is made from it) Well, as a last resort, glue from a kit of a prefabricated airplane or a plastic tank

    Non-Furry 13-07-2016 05:41

    1 - you don’t need to look for dichloroethane, it is sold in the same place as cyanoacrylate and so on: usually these are departments with all sorts of small items for electrical goods, etc., where they sell borax, fluxes, rosin, etc. 2 - “glue for models” is pear essence, a completely suitable and more harmless substitute for dichloroethane. 3 - cyanoacrylate - commercial name "Secunda" - a good thing, but harmful, as can be seen from the name, and most importantly, it does not dissolve the orchard, that is, it simply salivates it tightly, unlike dichloroethane; 4 - it’s best to try dichloroethane, but you need to know how to work with it correctly and it may not take modern plexiglass, because its composition may also turn out to be somehow modern, in addition to polystyrene, there are a lot of things now.

    Non-Furry 13-07-2016 07:19



    there is white and transparent


    Soda+TA rules

    Yep 13-07-2016 07:46

    quote: Originally posted by george_gl:

    epoxy is better


    epoxy is no better - its components are toxic in themselves, and will be released even from a hardened one.

    Non-Furry 13-07-2016 07:50

    And it only sticks to what it absorbs. The rest is just drooling.

    Barm 13-07-2016 08:24

    quote: Originally posted by Non-Furry:

    Soda+TA rules

    not really in this case
    a little fragile
    Dhe welds, not glues

    Postoronnim V 13-07-2016 08:29

    quote: Originally posted by Generalissimo Stalin:
    ...dichloroethane is ideal for gluing polystyrene...


    At least.

    Non-Furry 13-07-2016 08:39

    quote: Originally posted by Barm:

    Dhe welds, not glues


    Well, yes, that’s why I’m for him. So I remembered soda, a very useful method for other cases.

    Barm 13-07-2016 08:55

    quote: Originally posted by Postoronnim V:

    Tetrahydrofuran will be no worse.
    At least.

    Postoronnim V 13-07-2016 09:06

    quote: Originally posted by Barm:

    go to the store and buy it in a tube for example


    Why should I?
    There's a 0.9 liter bottle on the shelf.
    Price 309 rubles.
    One of the best solvents and adhesives for polystyrene, PVC, etc.

    Barm 13-07-2016 09:33



    How does it interact with products?


    I'm afraid that all the organic matter that was recommended for gluing will somehow interact

    8bullets 13-07-2016 09:38



    I'm afraid that all the organic matter that was recommended for gluing will somehow interact

    That’s why I will never buy a freezer with transparent, non-solid drawers.
    I looked for my new boxes on the Internet - it’s a difficult task, even though it’s a poppy Indesit.

    Postoronnim V 13-07-2016 09:55

    quote: Originally posted by 8bullets:

    but how does it interact with products?



    IMHO, a phobia is hardly appropriate here, because... Few people think about how much of the same poisonous furan is contained in the wrong honey, jam and some other products.

    8bullets 13-07-2016 10:35



    The solvent will fizzle out and will not interact with the products in any way.

    Well, this is the main thing.


    http://hobbyostrov.ru/plastic-...ement-tm-87038/

    Here, I found a small article with brands of adhesives:
    http://promresursy.com/interesno/skleivanie-plastika.html

    8bullets 13-07-2016 10:39

    There, in that article there is a video on how to glue a broken ear on a headlight (relevant to me).

    And here, a little off-topic: how to glue a BROKEN ear on a headlight (part of the plastic from the ear is missing (irretrievably), directly placing the fragments next to each other is impossible, you need to fill the missing volume with something)?

    Barm 13-07-2016 10:57

    quote: Originally posted by 8bullets:

    Do you need something to fill the missing volume)?


    if ABC - then the same cosmofen, you can reinforce this mesh with painting or whatever it’s called, in rolls like this

    8bullets 13-07-2016 11:01

    quote: Originally posted by Barm:

    if ABC - then the same cosmofen, you can reinforce this mesh with painting or whatever it’s called, in rolls like this

    Thanks for the clarification! Some fabulous Cosmofen, I’ve never seen anything like this.

    Postoronnim V 13-07-2016 11:15

    quote: Originally posted by 8bullets:

    What can you say about this glue, some kind of super-duper Liquid Glue Extra-Thin Cement?


    Unfortunately, I can’t say anything, because... composition is unknown.
    It is difficult to think of anything better for gluing polystyrene and PVC than tetrahydrofuran. These plastics can dissolve completely in it. That. if there is tetrahydrofuran, then you can make glue by dissolving the same material to be glued and there will be nothing superfluous in this glue.
    Cyclohexanone is also similar in properties, but it dissolves more slowly.
    The problem is that almost all of these solvent substances are poisonous and are not widely available for sale.
    Some are included in the list of precursors.
    However, it is still possible to find and purchase them.
    For example, I purchased it from MSD-Chemical.
    quote: Originally posted by 8bullets:

    BROKEN ear on the headlight (part of the plastic from the ear is missing (irretrievably), direct placement of fragments next to each other is impossible, you need to fill the missing volume with something)?


    Another option is to cut an “ear” out of metal. plates, heat and slightly melt into place. Fill the volume with epoxy resin when it is in a soft state (begins to harden) or in a liquid state, making “formwork” from plasticine, for example.

    8bullets 13-07-2016 11:29

    8bullets 13-07-2016 11:31

    quote: Originally posted by Postoronnim V:

    Another option is to cut an “ear” out of metal. plates, heat and slightly melt into place. Fill the volume with epoxy resin when it is in a soft state (begins to harden) or in a liquid state, making “formwork” from plasticine, for example.

    Here, look, please - in this condition, can it be repaired like this? In fact, that's all that's left, just a small fragment on the headlight. And there are also several ribs on the back of this ear.

    avkie 13-07-2016 12:35

    quote: Originally posted by george_gl:
    A crack appeared on the side of the box almost the entire height. I decided to glue it together because it is problematic to buy a box in the provinces. Regular transparent plastic. The idea was to clean the area of ​​the crack with alcohol, apply cyanoacrylic along the crack, compress it, and then glue a piece of plastic to the side inside.
    But at work they said that maybe the glue would release something... epoxy would be better...
    What are your thoughts?

    I treated the same thing with epoxy + fiberglass
    3 drawers in Ariston freezer.

    avkie 13-07-2016 12:37

    fiberglass + epoxy.
    Stedalt many layers. dry and remove... process with a file

    Spar 13-07-2016 12:51

    While I was thinking about how to glue the same crap together and whether it was toxic, but I still think that all of the above is not for food storage, my wife glued it together with a heat gun for plastic.

    avkie 13-07-2016 12:56

    Well done wife. Where would such a natyi be? otherwise mine keeps nagging - do it, do it, do this, do that...
    no, just take it and do it yourself..

    Spar 13-07-2016 13:03



    a heat gun is a good idea
    Otherwise I sometimes have a problem with temporary fixation.


    And if you heat it up with a hairdryer before the gun, then in general it’s good for permanent fixation.
    She now offers it to me everywhere.

    avkie 13-07-2016 13:06

    I usually glue with epoxy and fix it with Poskipol - so that I don’t have to hold the parts with my hands for a long time - it’s not always possible to fix them with a strobe

    and Poxypol is expensive nowadays.

    Spar 13-07-2016 13:21

    quote: Originally posted by 8bullets:

    I looked for my new boxes on the Internet - it’s a difficult task, even though it’s a poppy Indesit


    It looks like you can find all the manufacturers of figs. Trend.
    quote: Originally posted by avkie:

    I usually glue with epoxy

    Not. I was once addicted to it, when I was young, I sealed 2101 holes, that’s all.

    avkie 13-07-2016 13:34

    Most likely it was polyester - styrene.

    and the German DER-331 doesn’t smell like that at all - it smells a little like hardener, but can’t be compared with polyesters - it turns the hair on your arms green

    Spar 13-07-2016 13:38

    quote: Originally posted by avkie:

    epoxy (even Soviet EPD-20) has almost no smell.


    Looks like he just glued it to her. In a red and white cardboard box. In plastic measuring bottles.

    avkie 13-07-2016 13:39

    very strange, oh well.

    8bullets 13-07-2016 14:08

    In general, we don’t have any of this Cosmofen, but we do have this:

    Barm 13-07-2016 14:16

    the same target audience IMHO
    Well, maybe with some additives
    as a last resort, mix with soda, as advised above

    TAURUS 13-07-2016 14:19

    I glued a similar container for the Indesit refrigerator... I cut off shavings from an inconspicuous area and dissolved it in dichloroethane 1k1... within a day I got a thick glue... so I glued it with it... it glues well, even the seams are not visible.

    8bullets 13-07-2016 14:27

    quote: Originally posted by Barm:

    as a last resort, mix with soda, as advised above

    And “how many grams to weigh” (c)? I didn’t find any mention of proportions in the topic.

    Barm 13-07-2016 15:41

    quote: Originally posted by 8bullets:

    And “how many grams to weigh” (c)?


    here is a manual for example
    http://www.yaplakal.com/forum2/topic1214660.html

    Non-Furry 13-07-2016 15:45

    quote: Originally posted by Barm:

    the same target audience IMHO


    Perhaps not, on CA adhesives they usually write, “Second” is not long enough to be called.

    8bullets 13-07-2016 15:52

    quote: Originally posted by Barm:

    here is a manual for example
    http://www.yaplakal.com/forum2/topic1214660.html

    Thank you, I understand.

    Instructions for lamers like me:

    1. We grab the surfaces to be glued with a drop so that they do not move apart
    2. sprinkle soda on top, wait, sir, blow off the excess
    3. Apply glue to the joint and dry it
    4. sprinkle soda on top, wait, sir, blow off the excess
    - until the glue runs out (just kidding, just by eye we repeat the sequence)

    For some reason it’s not at all aesthetically pleasing and not effective when gluing the ears of the end wall in frosty weather. drawer to the sides, if I do this, it will be only once.

    8bullets 13-07-2016 17:11


    I recommend for the freezer

    Where can I get it?

    avkie 14-07-2016 06:58

    quote: Originally posted by D.Trump:
    I recommend for the freezer

    So isn't this epoxy?

    Spar 14-07-2016 08:17

    quote: So isn't this epoxy?

    This is true.
    quote: Originally posted by TAURUS:

    I glued a similar container for the Indesit refrigerator... I cut off shavings from an inconspicuous area and dissolved it in dichloroethane 1k1... within 24 hours I got a thick glue... so I glued it with it...

    Eh, you're not taking care of yourself...
    While still building in the shipbuilding circle, we were categorically forbidden to use dichloroethane on our own.

    SDR 14-07-2016 10:29

    quote: Originally posted by george_gl:
    A crack appeared on the side of the box almost the entire height. I decided to glue it together because it is problematic to buy a box in the provinces. Regular transparent plastic. The idea was to clean the area of ​​the crack with alcohol, apply cyanoacrylic along the crack, compress it, and then glue a piece of plastic to the side inside.
    But at work they said that maybe the glue would release something... epoxy would be better...
    What are your thoughts?

    epoxy - ugly but durable

    try glue for children's models
    degrease with alcohol

    Well, be prepared that a crack, that’s all

    SDR 14-07-2016 10:29


    In general, we don’t have any of this Cosmofen, but we do have this:

    Gentlemen, what do you think, is this suitable for gluing freezer trays?

    answered below

    no cyanoacrylate

    8bullets 14-07-2016 10:42


    answered below

    no cyanoacrylate

    SDR 14-07-2016 10:49

    quote: Originally posted by 8bullets:

    In the sense that this Sec contains cyanoacrylate and should under no circumstances be used for food trays? Or, on the contrary, is it not in it?

    8bullets 14-07-2016 10:57

    quote: Originally posted by SDR:

    These adhesives are not suitable for gluing load-bearing structures - they do not hold

    and model glue dissolves contact surfaces and forms a super-strong connection

    SDR 14-07-2016 10:58

    quote: Originally posted by 8bullets:

    I understood everything, thank you! Apparently you can buy such glue in some large Children's Worlds (definitely not in small ones)?

    in any place where models are sold

    The connection with epoxy will be even stronger, but....it will not be beautiful

    krn/frost 17-07-2016 16:53

    Was there glue for scale models? 3 years - normal flight.

    8bullets 26-07-2016 12:40

    I'm reporting. Over the weekend, I bought two glues for these very models in the children's world: for a thousand rubles, a Russian one in a jar under a squirrel brush and a German liquid one in a tube. And he sat down to glue the box.

    It turned out to be a surprise - there weren't even any fragments of the bracket left in the box and I had to glue the side wall, pressing it to the inner wall of the front panel.
    From the first minutes nothing happened - the glue does not set immediately, like super cement, and the walls move away from each other. Both German and Russian. At the end he smeared the Russians so much that he started to drip down the wall.

    He spat and decided to tighten it with a screw and nut, but he put the box on its edge and pressed it with a book. I arrived two days later, I looked, and it seemed to have stuck together.
    I didn’t try to separate them from each other - it’s a shame.

    This is all bullshit, dear experts, wouldn’t it be possible to keep something like that in the cold?

    george_gl 28-07-2016 20:31

    I glued the box together with dichloroethane, first the box itself, then put in the tires. 2 days flight, normal. If it cracks, I’ll get angry and reinforce it with a thin metal mesh (heat it with a hairdryer) and glue it again.

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