Micro USB repair using soldering. Pinout of micro usb charging connector

Many of our mobile devices use a mini-USB connector for charging and synchronization. It is firmly secured inside, but if used carelessly, that is, when the cord is pulled while the device is charging, or if the device falls and hangs on the USB cable, this connector may fall off. The author of these lines took just such a device for repair. It was a Shturmann Link 500.

Replace the mini-USB connector

The first thing you need to do is get to the board where the connector was soldered, so that you can get there with a soldering iron. In my case (GPS navigator), I had to disassemble it and remove the motherboard.

When the fallen connector and the soldering point have become accessible to us, we can begin. Let's see how the connector was held in place: it was held in place by soldering the case in four places, by soldering the contacts themselves, and by glue on both sides of the sides of the case. First, we tin the solder joints of the connector, if necessary, smooth out the spots on the board with a soldering iron, only carefully, 5 contacts are very close to each other. Before putting the connector in its place, it would be nice to glue it, for example, with the melting glue of a hot-melt glue gun, but it would be better with some epoxy glue or something else stronger, but I don’t recommend putting it on superglue, because it sets quickly and you can tear off the connector in case unsuccessful soldering will be difficult. So, we put the connector in its place with glue, now we need to solder 5 contacts to their places, managing not to bridge any pair of them. If you don’t have a soldering iron with a very thin tip, then this will not be easy; I had to resolder it several times to achieve the desired result. When all 5 contacts are carefully soldered, all that remains is to solder the connector body in four places, as it was soldered earlier, after which you can additionally fill the sides with glue.

The connector on the sides may not be soldered well. In this case, its soldered surfaces must be cleaned and tinned.

Now we connect the device to the computer and check if everything works as it should. If all is well, then we assemble the device and continue to use it.

Hi all. Today I will tell you in detail and show you how to change micro-USB connectors and other little things, on your knees,” i.e. at home, without special skills and special professional expensive paraphernalia and substances. Simply armed with inspiration, always helpful optimism, ingenuity, perseverance, patience and enough time.

Yesterday they brought me a smartphone for repair Lumia Denim 630 with a faulty power socket, with the words: “Shows charging - but doesn’t want to charge!” The smartphone looked monolithic, without screws and latches, I thought: Well, that’s a waste! Now you’ll have to warm it up with a hairdryer!”, although after fiddling around it turned out that it’s easy to open, since the insides are in a lid-“trough” that can be easily separated (on the internal latches). Those. Nokia developers have thought out everything in a military way.” For this I give them a tasty like!

The socket appeared to be in good condition outwardly, no cracks were found in the soldering joints, which means, as often happens, the fault lay in worn out contacts inside the connector. I decided to boldly change it to a new one. After the repair, I dismantled the old socket and indeed the contacts were covered in dirt, oily felt, and looked worn out. I forgot to take a photo, but in general, see what kind of dead connectors there are, see the photo attached to the article.

A sure sign that the socket needs to be replaced

I bought the nests on Ali Express, in a bunch of about 100 pieces, 10 types, which is convenient.

Set of micro-usb sockets

I found something suitable, but not identical, which had to be modified and filed.

The nest needs to be adjusted

As it turned out later, despite the almost external similarity of the socket, the gold-plated contacts on it did not fit in height, that is, they hovered above the board! Take note!

I adjusted the socket, but did not notice the discrepancy with the original

I had to select a new nest, file it again, and adjust it, since I didn’t have what I needed.

The nest needs to be adjusted

When adjusting, a slight misalignment of the socket was revealed, i.e. opening the fastening locks of the socket, which had to be put in place, soldered and slightly adjusted to the cover of the smart with a sharp knife.

The nest is adjusted

And all because the nests ordered in bulk are cheap, which means they are simpler, made of not very durable metal, in comparison with the original nests. Native nests, as a rule, are very expensive, made well, reliably, but you can’t stock up on them for any occasion. Ordering relatives in China and waiting tediously is problematic. I decided by disassembling the old nest, weighing the pros and cons, and comparing price tags in Ali.

For desoldering, I use a special hot air gun, although you can completely get by with a construction hair dryer, while being vigilant and attentive so as not to fry everything all around.

Soldering gun

Be sure to cover all plastic parts, capacitors, with confectionery foil or chocolate, otherwise they may melt! Then the damage to your smart phone may come suddenly and unexpectedly! 🙂 I.e. First, you warm up the entire board in a circular motion so that it doesn’t get driven by the propeller from the temperature difference, and then you heat the socket itself in a circular motion (about 300 degrees, check with a multimeter’s temperature sensor or using your intuition and your fingers). Before warming up, it is advisable to simply solder the socket with regular solder with flux or rosin (mix your tin with the factory one, this will make desoldering easier), since the factory solder on the board is often lead-free, which causes problems with soldering the socket.

By the way, for ease of work, I get by with an ordinary silicone pastry mat, since professional roads are expensive.

My soldering mat

It holds high temperatures and nothing slips on it, i.e. the thing is practical and appropriate. I also use a special board holder with alligator clips, with which I conveniently fix the board.

Board holder

I purchased the mat and holder from Ali. In general, you can do without them, including the consideration. 🙂

After desoldering, I use braid moistened with flux or rosin, leaning it with a soldering iron and moving them along the tracks and holes with tin, also previously lubricated with flux.

desoldering braid

As a result, the braid absorbs all the interfering solder, leaving everything around clean (cool idea!). The only thing keep in mind is that you don’t tear off the tracks and contact patches with the braid! This also happens! Be careful and take your time!

I forgot to say that desoldering the socket with a soldering iron is problematic and risky. Of course, with good experience, you can also desolder in a sophisticated way - with the help of one large drop of solder, covering the entire socket with it and making sure that you don’t “bump” or stick neighboring parts to your mega-drop, etc. But still, this is done masterfully by people with a full hand and experience. Another option is that earlier in workshops (when there were no hair dryers, during the USSR) special nozzles-stings were made (bought) for the necessary connectors and sockets, which made it possible to supply heat to all the required areas at once and easily desolder them. It was an excursion, but for you it’s still easier to use a hot air gun.

Special tips

Ideally, workshops successfully use a special microscope for soldering small parts. I use magnifying glasses, since I can’t afford a good microscope yet, and taking a cheap one is just a waste of money.

Illuminated magnifying glasses

I also use a set of clock screwdrivers for disassembly and assembly; I also use them with pleasure as convenient small cleaners (from rosin on the board), pickers, pushers, lifting element legs, etc. I bought it at the nearest hardware store for a symbolic amount.

Set of cheap watch screwdrivers

The varieties of tweezers that I purchased from Ali and Fix-Price help a lot.” In important cases, women's cosmetic tweezers may come in handy. 🙂

The tip of your family forty-watt soldering iron will need to be sharpened at an acute angle and with a slightly rounded end in order to carefully and effectively crawl up to the legs of the socket and painlessly for neighboring radio elements.

Sharpening the soldering iron tip

Or simply wrap copper wire around a tip and use it as a thin tip, in common parlance: “Mini soldering iron in a hurry”!

Mini soldering iron

It is advisable to buy a cheap power regulator for the lamps, which you will use to regulate the temperature of the tip, so that the rosin on the tip does not quickly turn into carbon deposits, so as not to overheat the conductive paths and so that they do not fly off.

Lamp power regulator

Of course, you can do it without a power regulator, but then you will have to solder with short touches so as not to overheat the tracks and tediously often clean the tip from black rosin oxides. And again - and this is the art of the possible, on the verge of risk. Decide for yourself.

Let's continue. Before soldering, I washed off the used flux from the board with a toothbrush soaked in alcohol (you can also use vodka, but it’s not quite suitable because of the oils), brushing it towards the edges of the board so that the old flux does not smear on the board, fly off the board and led to corrosion of adjacent copper tracks. In general, this generally applies to almost all fluxes, no-clean and neutral, and also applies to rosin, since they are all aggressive to one degree or another and their evaporation is harmful to health to one degree or another (ventilate the room!). Therefore, it is advisable to wash off with alcohol, detergents, etc., and scrape off the rosin and rinse with alcohol (under the rosin, it can also corrode the tracks!). Next, I looked to see if the contact pads were clean and soldered (there shouldn’t be a lot of solder, i.e. no slides, just soldering so that the socket lays flat and is soldered), lubricated the soldering areas with flux (see the photo for flux), laid it down, taking aim.” carefully on the seats so that the socket then coincides with the back cover and solder, periodically replenishing the tip with solder. Well, or if your solder is in the form of a thin wire, bring it to the place of soldering with a tip. If you only have rosin, then simply pick up solder with a tip, then dip it in rosin and quickly, before the rosin on the tip turns into a disgusting black mass due to overheating, solder the necessary contact pins to the socket.

Afterwards, be sure to check how you soldered, whether everything looks nice, whether anything is sticking out, or whether there is a so-called. ,snot” between the contact pads, as this can cause a short circuit and is fraught with more serious damage to the device. Use a little braid, if you can’t remove the snot with a sting, it will take away excess solder and deposit tin under the socket leg. If a little remains, then lubricate the area with rosin and lightly use a sting to tear off the remaining tin between the contacts. But don't overdo it, the solder should be in the form of a sufficient droplet covering the contact for a strong contact. Do not skimp on flux (rosin) so that the soldering is electrically conductive (and not the so-called “cold” or “dry” soldering, which does not conduct current).

Now, partially, without screws, we assemble the smartphone, connect the cables, turn it on, check for functionality, if everything is fine, charging is in progress, the battery shows that it is accumulating charge, then we finally assemble it by screwing and closing the back decorative cover.

To clarify the process of replacing the socket, I cut you gifs from a video of a professional working. Look and listen.

The universal USB bus is one of the popular interfaces of a personal computer. It allows for serial connection of various devices (up to 127 units). USB buses also support the function of connecting and disconnecting devices while the personal computer is running. In this case, devices can receive power directly through the mentioned element, which eliminates the need to use additional power supplies. In this article we will look at what the standard USB pinout is. This information may be useful when making your own USB adapters or devices that receive power through the interface we are considering. In addition, we will look at what micro-USB and, of course, mini-USB pinouts are.

Description and wiring of the USB interface

Almost every PC user knows what a USB connector looks like. This is a flat four-pin Type A interface. The female USB connector is labeled AF, and the male USB connector is labeled AM. The USB Type A pinout consists of four pins. The first wire is marked in red and is supplied with a DC voltage of +5 V. It is allowed to supply a maximum current of 500 mA. The second contact - white - is intended for (D-). The third wire (green) is also used for data transmission (D+). The last contact is marked in black and is supplied with zero supply voltage (common wire).

Type A connectors are considered active; host power supplies, etc., are connected to them). Type B connectors are considered passive; devices such as printers, scanners, etc. are connected to them. Type B connectors are square with two beveled corners. “Mom” is labeled BF, and “father” is labeled VM. The USB type B pinout has the same four pins (two at the top and two at the bottom), the purpose is identical to type A.

Wiring of micro-USB type connectors

Connectors of this type are most often used to connect tablets and smartphones. They are significantly smaller in size than a standard USB interface. Another feature is the presence of five contacts. The marking of such connectors is as follows: micro-AF(BF) - “female” and micro-AM(VM) - “male”.

Micro USB pinout:

The first pin (red) is intended to supply +5 V supply voltage;

The second and third wires (white and green) are used for data transmission;

The fourth contact (ID) in type B connectors is not used, but in type A connectors it is connected to a common wire to support the OTG function;

The last, fifth, contact (black) is supply voltage zero.

In addition to those listed, the cable may have another wire used for “shielding”; it is not assigned a number.

Mini USB pinout

Mini-USB connectors also contain five pins. These connectors are marked as follows: mini-AF (BF) - “female” and mini-AM (VM) - “male”. The pinout is identical to the micro-USB type.

Conclusion

Information about wiring for USB connectors is very relevant, since this type of interface is used in almost all mobile and desktop devices and gadgets. These connectors are used both for charging the built-in batteries and for data transfer.

The USB interface is a popular form of technological communication on mobile and other digital devices. Connectors of this kind are often found on personal computers of various configurations, peripheral computer systems, cell phones, etc.

A feature of the traditional interface is the USB pinout of a small area. For operation, only 4 pins (contacts) + 1 ground shield line are used. True, the latest more advanced modifications (USB 3.0 Powered-B or Type-C) are characterized by an increase in the number of working contacts.

The abbreviation “USB” carries an abbreviated designation, which in its entirety reads as “Universal Series Bus” - a universal serial bus, thanks to the use of which high-speed digital data exchange is carried out.

The versatility of the USB interface is noted:

• low power consumption;
• unification of cables and connectors;
• simple logging of data exchange;
• high level of functionality;
• Wide support for drivers for various devices.

What is the structure of the USB interface, and what types of USB technology connectors exist in the modern world of electronics? Let's try to figure it out.

Technological structure of the USB 2.0 interface

Connectors related to products included in the specification group 1.x - 2.0 (created before 2001) are connected to a four-core electrical cable, where two conductors are power and two more are transmitting data.

Also, in specifications 1.x - 2.0, wiring of service USB connectors requires the connection of a shielding braid - in fact, a fifth conductor.

This is what the physical design of normal USB connectors belonging to the second specification looks like. On the left are the “male” type versions, on the right are the “female” type versions and the pinout corresponding to both options

Existing versions of Universal Serial Bus connectors of the noted specifications are presented in three options:

1. Normal- type “A” and “B”.
2. Mini- type “A” and “B”.
3. Micro- type “A” and “B”.

The difference between all three types of products lies in the design approach. If normal connectors are intended for use on stationary equipment, “mini” and “micro” connectors are made for use in mobile devices.

This is what the physical design of the connectors of the second specification from the “mini” series looks like and, accordingly, the label for Mini USB connectors - the so-called pinout, based on which the user makes the cable connection

Therefore, the last two types are characterized by a miniature design and a slightly modified connector shape.

Pinout table for standard type “A” and “B” connectors

Along with the execution of connectors of the “mini-A” and “mini-B” types, as well as connectors of the “micro-A” and “micro-B” types, there are modifications of the “mini-AB” and “micro-AB” type connectors.

A distinctive feature of such designs is the wiring of the USB conductors on a 10-pin pad. However, in practice, such connectors are rarely used.

Micro USB and Mini USB interface pinout table for type “A” and “B” connectors

Technological structure of USB 3.x interfaces

Meanwhile, the improvement of digital equipment had already led to the obsolescence of specifications 1.x - 2.0 by the time of 2008.

These types of interfaces did not allow the connection of new equipment, for example, external hard drives, in such a way that a higher (more than 480 Mbit/s) data transfer rate was provided.

Accordingly, a completely different interface was born, marked with specification 3.0. The development of the new specification is characterized not only by increased speed, but also by increased current - 900 mA versus 500 mA for USB 2/0.

It is clear that the appearance of such connectors has made it possible to service a larger number of devices, some of which can be powered directly from the universal serial bus interface.

Modification of USB 3.0 connectors of different types: 1 – “mini” type “B” version; 2 – standard product type “A”; 3 – development of the “micro” series of type “B”; 4 – Standard type “C”

As you can see in the picture above, the interfaces of the third specification have more working contacts (pins) than the previous - second version. However, the third version is fully compatible with the “two”.

In order to be able to transmit signals at a higher speed, the designers of the third version equipped an additional four data lines and one neutral wire line. Augmented contact pins are located in a separate row.

Pin designation table for connectors of the third version for wiring a USB cable

Meanwhile, the use of the USB 3.0 interface, in particular the “A” series, turned out to be a serious design flaw. The connector has an asymmetrical shape, but the connection position is not specifically indicated.

The developers had to modernize the design, as a result of which in 2013 a USB-C option appeared at users’ disposal.

Upgraded USB 3.1 connector

The design of this type of connector involves duplication of working conductors on both sides of the plug. There are also several backup lines on the interface.

This type of connector is widely used in modern mobile digital technology.

Location of contacts (pins) for a USB-C type interface, belonging to the series of the third specification of connectors intended for communications of various digital equipment

It is worth noting the characteristics of USB Type-C. For example, the speed parameters for this interface show a level of 10 Gbit/sec.

The design of the connector is compact and ensures a symmetrical connection, allowing the connector to be inserted in any position.

Pinout table compliant with Specification 3.1 (USB-C)

The next level of the USB 3.2 specification

Meanwhile, the process of improving the universal serial bus is actively continuing. At the non-commercial level, the next level of specification has already been developed - 3.2.

According to available information, the speed characteristics of the USB 3.2 interface promise twice the parameters than the previous design is capable of.

The developers managed to achieve such parameters by introducing multi-band channels through which transmission is carried out at speeds of 5 and 10 Gbit/s, respectively.

Similar to "Thunderbolt", USB 3.2 uses multiple lanes to achieve overall throughput, rather than trying to sync and run the same channel twice

By the way, it should be noted that the compatibility of the promising interface with the existing USB-C is fully supported, since the “Type-C” connector (as already noted) is equipped with backup contacts (pins) that provide multi-band signal transmission.

Features of cable wiring on connector contacts

There are no special technological nuances associated with soldering cable conductors on the contact pads of connectors. The main thing in this process is to ensure that the color of the cable conductors matches the specific contact (pin).

Color coding of conductors inside the cable assembly used for USB interfaces. Shown from top to bottom, respectively, is the color scheme of cable conductors for specifications 2.0, 3.0 and 3.1

Also, if you are wiring modifications of outdated versions, you should take into account the configuration of the connectors, the so-called “male” and “female”.

The conductor soldered on the male contact must match the soldering on the female contact. Take, for example, the option of wiring the cable to USB 2.0 pins.

The four working conductors used in this embodiment are usually marked in four different colors:

• red;
• white;
• green;
• black.

Accordingly, each conductor is soldered onto a pad marked with a connector specification of a similar color. This approach greatly facilitates the work of the electronics engineer and eliminates possible errors during the desoldering process.

A similar soldering technology is applied to connectors of other series. The only difference in such cases is the larger number of conductors that have to be soldered.

Regardless of the connector configuration, screen conductor soldering is always used. This conductor is soldered to the corresponding contact on the connector, Shield – protective screen.

There are frequent cases of ignoring the protective screen when “experts” do not see the point in this conductor. However, the lack of a screen dramatically reduces the performance of the USB cable.

Therefore, it is not surprising when, with a significant length of cable without a screen, the user experiences problems in the form of interference.

Wiring the connector with two conductors to organize a power line for the donor device. In practice, different wiring options are used, based on technical needs.

There are different options for soldering a USB cable, depending on the configuration of the port lines on a particular device.

For example, to connect one device to another in order to obtain only a supply voltage (5V), it is enough to solder only two lines on the corresponding pins (contacts).

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The video below explains the main points of pinout of connectors of the 2.0 series and others, and visually explains individual details of the production of soldering procedures.

Having complete information on the pinout of Universal Serial Bus connectors, you can always cope with a technical problem associated with conductor defects. This information will also come in handy if you need to connect some digital devices in a non-standard way.

Equipment

Initial version

Connecting cables

When repairing, I used the method described. In short, multi-core cables are connected by a “ladder”. Thus, the wires do not touch each other and the connection is thinner.
Using the example of the remaining piece of wire, I will show how this is done. First, carefully cut the top insulation to a length of about four to five centimeters.


Unravel the braid and take it aside.


Then we expose 4 wires in a “ladder” - red only the very tip to twist; the white one is a little longer, so as not to touch the red one; then green. We clean the black one the furthest. We expose the other cable in exactly the same way, only in a mirror way - only the tip is black, then green, white and red at the very base. Thus, we eliminate the short circuit of the wires with each other.


All that remains is to connect the two cables to each other. We connect each wire with a twist. I hope you don't confuse the colors. After twisting, it is better to cut off the excess wires to avoid unnecessary contacts.


In my version, I also covered the whole thing with a piece of top insulation to avoid contact with the braid. In the future, I plan to either get electrical tape somewhere, or ask the girls for colorless varnish for insulation.


After treatment with electrical tape, of course, it will all take on a divine appearance, but for now the braid will hang in such a strange way. The connection is working, there are no unnecessary contacts. The mouse works like new!

However

Thank you for your attention. I hope this article helped you.

P.S. This is my first article on Habré. Thanks for the invite!