Air receiver for compressor. Compressor receiver. Accurate calculation and selection How to install an additional receiver for a compressor

To increase the efficiency of work using compressed air, the vast majority of compressor units use receivers - tanks for storing air under the required pressure. Depending on the intensity of work, receivers of 50, 100 liters or even more can be used.

Why do you need a receiver in a compressor?

The compressor receiver performs several important functions:

Stabilizes the air pressure supplied to the working area (differences in pressure values are inevitable, since a single cycle of operation of any compressor involves a suction phase and an air injection phase).
They provide the supply of compressed air for some time in the event of interruptions in the operation of the compressor, or when an additional consumer is connected to it.
Cleaning the air from accumulating condensate, since high air humidity, which increases with increasing air pressure, leads to intense corrosion of the steel parts of the compressor.
The accumulation of compressed air in the receiver for the compressor leads to a subsequent reduction in the total vibrations in the system, which, in turn, reduces the overall noise level and reduces the level of loads on the base of stationary units.

When performing work involving the production of compressed air in particularly large quantities, a standard receiver may not be enough. For example, when sandblasting surfaces with a large area, in order not to purchase a more powerful compressor, an additional receiver is often used.

The presence of a receiver, in addition, allows you to use the compressor periodically, i.e., reduce its consumption of electrical energy.

Structurally, the compressor receiver is a sealed tank with a certain capacity. For mobile compressors, receivers up to 50...100 l are used, for stationary ones - up to 500...1000 l. It is equipped with air-cleaning filters, condensate drains and shut-off valves for connection to the main unit and to the working device that consumes compressed air - nozzle, spray gun, etc.

The container is made of steel, from corrosion-resistant steels such as 10ХСНД or 16ГА2Ф. In exceptional cases, for particularly low-power compressors, receivers can be made of plastic or even high-strength rubber.

The layout of receivers can be horizontal or vertical. The first is used in mobile units, the second – in stationary ones. Each variety has its own advantages and disadvantages. In particular, it is easier to drain condensate in vertical receivers, but horizontal receivers are more compact and require shorter pipelines.

How to choose the optimal receiver parameters?

In addition to capacity, the compressor receiver is also characterized by:

Limit values of air humidity.
Operating conditions (allowed difference in external ambient temperatures -15...+40ºС and relative humidity no more than 75...80%).
Requirements for the installation location (away from heat sources, flammable and explosive materials, as well as in an atmosphere contaminated with mechanical particles - for example, near circular saws).

The requirements of PB 03-576-03 (rules for the design and safe operation of pressure vessels) also prohibit the operation of receivers that have not passed the performance check of the tank walls, as well as those that have external surface defects - cracks, dents, traces of atmospheric corrosion.

The selection of receiver characteristics for a compressor is done as follows. Set the required compressed air consumption, duration of its consumption, minimum and maximum pressure values. Next, using standard online calculation tables (for example, //www.kaeser.ru/Online_Services/Toolbox/Air_receiver_sizes/default.asp) determine the required parameter. For example, with initial air flow data of 0.1 m 3 /min, peak load duration during operation of 5 minutes, permissible pressure difference minimum/maximum of 3/4 atm, the optimal volume of the receiver tank will be 500 liters.

This method is focused on the time it takes to completely empty the receiver. There is also a simplified tabular method that correlates the volume of the receiver with the power consumption of the compressor. The ratios used in practice are:

For a compressor with a power of up to 5 kW – up to 100 l;
For a compressor with a power of up to 10 kW – up to 300 l;
For a compressor with a power of up to 20 kW – up to 550 hp.

It is recommended to obtain intermediate values by interpolation. There are also experimental dependencies. For example, the capacity of the receiver tank cannot be less than the performance of the compressor for 8 seconds of its continuous operation. In particular, with a compressor air flow rate of 400 l/min, the tank volume will be no less than:

V = (400×8)/60 = 53.33 (l)

Do-it-yourself additional receiver for a compressor

A number of jobs in the household or in a small workshop require increased consumption of compressed air, which a conventional household compressor cannot cope with. One solution is to install an additional receiver for the compressor. Such a device can be purchased (the price, depending on the volume, is 12,000...15,000 rubles), or you can make it yourself. Moreover, most of the proposed models of receivers are focused on standard compressors, which explains their high price.

Depending on the calculated volume (it is easier to connect an additional receiver in series to the main one), a liquefied gas cylinder or a fire extinguisher body can be adapted for production.

The cylinder for a homemade receiver is first cleaned of gas residues. To do this, the inlet valve must be removed (the use of a power tool is unacceptable, since gas residues may remain in the cylinder). Next, the container is filled with water and left for 24 hours. After this, tubular splitters under the hoses can be welded into the cylinder, although threaded plugs with reliable gaskets can also be provided. The tank is painted with weather-resistant paint.

You can install a pressure gauge in the finished receiver, and a condensate drain in the bottom of the cylinder. The size of the condensate drain must be consistent with the performance of the compressor, its operating pressure and the dimensions of the connecting thread. Prices for condensate traps range from 2500...3000 rubles.

The finished additional receiver, mounted for stability on a tripod welded from a steel bar, has the appearance shown in the photo.

When using this device, the following must be considered:

Installation of a condensate drain on an additional receiver is mandatory;
Before loading, it is necessary to check the compressor electric motor to see if it can work with an additional receiver. To do this, turn on the compressor drive at idle speed, and use a flow meter to check the actual difference in the parameter during long-term (more than 20 minutes) operation. If the pressure does not fall below the minimum set value, then an additional receiver can be used;
If the pressure drops, you will have to reduce the desired value of the on-time duration from the standard 75...80% to 50...60% (with lower values, it is not advisable to use a homemade receiver).

The benefits of a compressor when performing various tasks in a workshop or garage are undeniable. This unit has long ceased to be the property of construction crews and departmental vehicle fleets. Here is a superficial list of what can be done with a compressor:

Painting work
Sandblasting of any materials
Blowing debris out of hard-to-reach cavities of units
Cleaning the area
Tire service
Working with pneumatic tools.

An air compressor can be purchased at a store. Moreover, kits of any power and performance are offered.

However, such equipment is not cheap: if you do not plan to make a profit from it, purchasing it simply to facilitate manual labor may seem impractical. Therefore, many home craftsmen try to make a compressor with their own hands.

Important! High pressure air is a source of increased danger. Careless assembly or use of homemade equipment can result in serious injury.

The simplest (and relatively safe) homemade compressor can be built from a regular car accessory. We will talk about a ready-made electrical device - a compressor for inflating wheels.

It would seem, where should it be used other than for its intended purpose? The design features do not allow large volumes of air to be supplied per unit of time.

This parameter deserves a separate explanation:

The compressor has two important characteristics:

The ability to create high pressure without additional load on the engine.

Automotive units are in complete order with this. You can safely build up pressure up to 5-6 atmospheres. True, pumping up a wheel to the typical 2.5-3 units takes a good ten minutes (at zero initial pressure). During this time, inexpensive devices may simply overheat, so breaks are required.

This occurs due to the low performance of automobile compressors.

Performance

The ability to produce a certain volume of air “over the mountain” per unit of time. The higher it is, the faster the container is filled, and the more intense the flow from the nozzle when using compressed air directly.

To combine these qualities, a large volume of the piston group of the unit and a powerful engine with high speeds are required. Plus, it is necessary to ensure cooling of the cylinders, otherwise the compressor will overheat and jam. Such devices exist; even turbines can be used as a working unit.

But the cost of the equipment does not allow it to be used en masse, especially in everyday life.

Simply put- either power or performance. How to get out of a vicious circle? Use a storage container - a receiver. In industrial designs, this is a steel cylinder, which is slowly filled by a powerful, but not very efficient compressor.

Homemade low-power compressor from an electric motor from a toy. A simple solution to a pressing problem. Such a compressor is quite suitable for supplying air to an aquarium. How to make it with your own hands in detail step by step in this video.

Once sufficient pressure has been created, a sufficiently large volume of air can be supplied from the receiver in a short time. Then you need to wait until the compressor restores pressure.
This is how all units work. including those installed on vehicles with air brakes.

Our “Kulibins” have long learned to create a semblance of industrial installations using an auto-compressor. We take a spare tire, use our favorite “Berkut” to fill it with 3-4 atmospheres (the main thing is that the tire does not burst), and the high-pressure paint sprayer is ready.

The same device is used for purging when servicing the engine or suspension. Only instead of a spray gun a blow gun is used.

Automation is not required; it is enough to control the pressure manually using the built-in pressure gauge. Of course, such a unit cannot start a pneumatic tool, and a sandblasting machine cannot be made from a wheel.

Air compressor from a fire extinguisher or gas cylinder

If you have a powerful auto compressor for inflating wheels(for such a case you can buy it), you can easily make a full-fledged air unit of medium power. It is enough to purchase an old carbon dioxide fire extinguisher or a gas cylinder and connect it to a ready-made “rocker”.

There are nuances that must be observed:

The donor container should not have any corrosive or mechanical damage
The pressure margin should be 100% of the planned one. That is, if you expect to “stuff” it up to 5 atmospheres, then the guaranteed rated strength must withstand at least 10 atmospheres
It is necessary to install a sensor with an emergency switch. When the pressure reaches the nominal value, the compressor will turn off.

Important! Don't rely on your own attentiveness. If you overinflate the wheel, it will simply burst, causing a lot of noise and dust. If a steel cylinder bursts, scattered fragments can lead to severe injuries, even death. Your container is unlikely to be new, so the safety margin is even lower.

As a last resort, install a mechanical emergency pressure relief valve. And of course, the system must have an autonomous pressure gauge (in addition to the one installed on the compressor)

The structure must be stable, it is useful to make a steel sheathing in case the receiver ruptures

If you rarely use the unit you have built, do not leave the pressure high for long periods of time. 0.5 atmospheres is enough to maintain tightness.

How to make a full-fledged compressor with your own hands

The auto accessories option is good for its accessibility. However, power, performance, and most importantly, the duration of continuous operation, leave much to be desired. There is a proven option - a compressor from the refrigerator. The cost part depends on your ability to find shareware components.

And I must say, the unit turns out no worse than the factory one.

And so, what is required for production. An exhaustive list that takes into account all the nuances. It can be shortened, with the exception of security elements:

Compressor from a household refrigerator (conditionally free)
Receiver container: this can be a fire extinguisher, a gas cylinder, or a homemade one welded from a thick-walled pipe and sheet iron. The latter option is convenient from the point of view of fittings placement, but the issue of welding reliability is very important. The cost also tends to zero
Air fittings: tubes, hoses, fittings, tees, air inlets

Working pressure regulator (reducer)

Pressure gauge (if there is a gearbox = 2 pcs.)

Inlet air purification filters (to preserve the compressor piston group)

Oil or water separator at the outlet (relevant for compressors with “wet” lubrication)

Pressure switch (controls the operation of the compressor)

Emergency valve (required for any configuration!)

The block diagram is shown in the illustration:

In principle, this “constructor” is not difficult to assemble. There are nuances when connecting a compressor from a refrigerator.

The so-called are quite rare. “dry” piston groups - with graphite seals without the use of lubricants. If you get your hands on such a copy, consider yourself lucky. In other cases, the compressor is literally flooded with oil.

This is not a problem for freon, but in clean air for work, a drop of lubricant is useless. Therefore, the receiver first acts as an oil separator. which is equipped with a drain plug and a specialized filter. There is no need to remind about the tightness of all connections, and everything is clear.
Full-fledged silent compressor from a refrigerator with your own hands, video instructions.

Such a unit will cope well with tire fitting, painting, blowing, and even ensuring the operation of pneumatic tools. True, with intense air consumption, you will have to stop often to restore pressure. If higher power is required, there are more productive developments.

DIY high pressure compressor

If the crankshaft of an internal combustion engine is driven by pressure from the combustion of the fuel mixture, why not start the process in reverse?

Using an internal combustion engine as a compressor is not just possible. You get a productive and powerful unit, and the piston group has a good margin of safety. The main question is which drive to use. Considering the total energy intensity, an electric motor with a power of at least 3 kW is suitable.

DIY high pressure compressor from a car engine

If you wish, you can find such a unit in decent condition at a reasonable price. Well, purchasing a live motor from a Zhiguli is not a problem at all. A gearbox is not needed, nor is a starter group. The ignition, intake and exhaust systems are also removed.

For a homemade compressor to work, a lubrication system, cooling system, and a sealed piston group are sufficient. The timing belt is not involved in the process; the camshaft can be removed along with the belt. We don’t touch the exhaust valves, we’ll just check the tightness. But at the inlet you need to install weaker springs.

The valves must freely supply air to the pistons.

Pressure is pumped through spark plug wells. Fittings with ball valves that operate for release are screwed into them. Four pipes are combined into a ramp, and a common pipeline supplies compressed air to the receiver. Of course, the capacity must be appropriate. Such a compressor can produce pressure of tens of atmospheres.

If you are serious and you have an old car engine, for example, from a VAZ 2108 like in this video, then after watching the detailed assembly instructions you can assemble your own homemade compressor from an internal combustion engine.

Result:
Depending on your needs and financial capabilities, you can assemble a unit of any level of complexity and performance. Space technologies are not used, but design safety issues come first.

How to make a receiver for a compressor with your own hands

Compressor units can only operate from receivers. These devices are responsible for the pressure inside the system. Many modifications are made with relays that differ in clamping force. It should also be noted that receivers can be equipped with sensors. Filters are most often used with clamps. If necessary, you can make a receiver for the compressor yourself. However, it is important to consider the type and capacity of the compressor unit.

40 liter devices

Making a receiver for a 40-liter compressor with your own hands is quite simple. First of all, a camera for the device is prepared. Typically, stainless steel sheet is used. Experts say that the lid should be welded last. It should also be noted that there are two-chamber modifications. The easiest way is to use a low conductivity relay. Homemade modifications, as a rule, are not equipped with sensors. Gearboxes for devices are selected of the chain type. In this case, valves with a tee are used to purge air.

60 liter modifications

An additional receiver for a 60-liter compressor can be made with two chambers. Experts say that the metal sheet should be at least 1.3 mm thick. Tees are most often installed next to the relay. Receivers of this type must be equipped with two filters. In this case, the gearbox should be installed with an adapter. 60 liter modifications are great for low power compressors. The maximum pressure indicator for systems is 6 bar. It is also important to note that only the duct valve should be used during assembly.

80 liter device

Air receivers for an 80-liter compressor can be made with two relays. Experts say that filters are selected with a large diameter. The outlet pipe of the receiver should be in the upper part. Intermediate filters are mounted via an adapter. It should also be noted that modifications with stops located inside the chamber are considered common. The pressure parameter for receivers of this type is approximately 10 bar. They use wired relays. The maximum compression force is 3 N. Tees for modifications are selected with a diameter of 2.2 cm. It should also be noted that sensors are often installed in devices to monitor pressure levels.

Single Valve Models

How to make a receiver for a compressor with one valve? In this case, the housings are used for 30 liters. You can also consider more compact modifications. To assemble the receiver, the camera is first prepared. The hole for the gearbox is welded to a small diameter. Experts recommend using only wired relays with a tee. The diameter of the outlet pipe for a 30-liter modification should not exceed 2 cm. The check valve is mounted at the base of the filter. It should also be noted that modifications with two outputs are considered common. They are great for 10 kW compressors. In this case, the pressure in the system can be maintained at 5 bar.

Two valve device

The receiver for a compressor with two valves is assembled with a capacity of 40 liters or more. On average, the pressure for models of this type is 4 bar. The devices differ primarily in relay conductivity. Their maximum clamping force is 7 N. Many modifications are made with a contact gearbox with two outputs. If you are assembling a simple modification, then it is more advisable to use a tee without a sensor. It is also important to note that a check valve should always be installed behind the filter. Experts say that the outlet pipe is welded last.

Single chamber devices

The single-chamber modification is suitable for compressor units of different capacities. Devices of this type are actively used in large factories. Modern models are distinguished by their high pressure parameters. They use a safety valve and have a protected gearbox. To assemble a single-chamber receiver yourself, it is recommended to make a container for it. The relay is used with a conductivity of 1.2 microns. In this case, the downforce must be a maximum of 12 N.

Check valves are installed behind the filter. The gearbox should be located in the rear part of the tank. The optimal diameter of the outlet pipe is 2.2 cm. However, it is important to consider the volume of the chamber. If you assemble a 40-liter device, then the intermediate filter is installed behind the relay. It should also be noted that before using the equipment, the chamber must be checked for sealing.

Two-chamber modifications

A two-chamber homemade compressor receiver is made with a 60-liter tank. Some devices are made with a sensor. To assemble the model yourself, you will need to make a camera and also make a hole for the pipe. The relay is usually used as a wired type. It is more advisable to use adapters with wraps. Experts say that the receiver must withstand high pressure. The optimal diameter of the outlet pipe is 2.2 cm. Valves for devices are selected from steel or aluminum alloy.

Using gearboxes with interlocks

It is difficult to assemble a receiver for a compressor with blockers. First of all, it is important to note that the models must have a high permissible pressure parameter. Device filters only fit on pads. It should also be noted that the relay must be installed in front of the gearbox. Experts say that receivers of this type are produced with small tees. Some modifications are assembled with carriers. Sensors are used to normalize the pressure inside the chamber. Check valves are installed with baffles. They are able to pass air only in one direction.

Devices with pressure sensors

The compressor receiver is produced with cylinders of different capacities. Some devices are suitable for powerful compressor installations. However, in this case, much depends on the diameter of the pipe. If we consider models with one outlet, then their permissible pressure indicator is on average 5 bar. In this case, the downforce can reach a maximum of 12 N.

Check valves can be installed with or without pads. Gearboxes can be found in different conductivities. Tees on receivers are installed with a diameter of 2.4 cm. If we consider simple modifications, then they use only one filter. The permissible pressure indicator for receivers of this type is about 2 bar. They are suitable for compressors with a total power of 8 kW and above.

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Do you know how to assemble an air compressor from scrap materials?

An air compressor is installed not only in cars with internal combustion engines - this equipment is used to power pneumatic tools in industry and other industries. The main operational characteristics of an air compressor are operating pressure and capacity in liters of air per minute.

The following types of air compressors are distinguished:

Piston. Device with direct force transmission. During engine operation, the piston moves along the cylinder and compresses the air that enters the system. There are oil- and oil-free piston blowers, the latter of which are widely used to power spray guns in the painting industry. Double piston air compressors are used for industrial purposes due to their high performance.
Rotary. Power is transmitted from the engine using a belt. Propellers with rotating blades compress the air inside the device and create increased pressure. Rotary equipment is characterized by high performance, good efficiency, low noise and vibration during operation. Piston type air compressor oil is used sparingly and does not enter the compressed air. The 380 V electric air compressor has become especially widespread in production.

The blower can operate autonomously or using a receiver, which ensures an even supply of compressed air to the system. An air compressor without a receiver is less expensive and smaller, but is more susceptible to breakdown.

Can I do it myself?

Not everyone can make an air compressor for an engine on their own, and making modifications not provided by the car manufacturer can have an unpredictable effect on the operation of the vehicle. However, you can assemble a homemade compressor for a garage or auto repair shop - with the help of such a device you can quickly fill tires with air, create excess pressure for a spray gun and other pneumatic tools, and also find other uses for the equipment.

A do-it-yourself compressor with a receiver will last much longer than purchased equipment, provided it is properly assembled from high-quality parts. This is explained by the fact that the master, who set out to make an air compressor with a receiver, makes it for himself, and for this reason cares about quality. What parts are needed and how to assemble?

Assembling the compressor with your own hands

The main element of a homemade air supercharger is the propulsion system. It is recommended to use a refrigerator compressor for assembly. It is notable for the presence of a start relay, which provides the ability to set and maintain a certain level of air pressure in the receiver. If you don’t have an old and unnecessary refrigerator at hand, you can find the unit at an industrial waste dump or from friends. Preference should be given to a refrigerator made in the USSR, since powerful and reliable compressors were used to produce Soviet refrigeration equipment.

The refrigeration blower has three tubes, one of which is sealed at one end. The rest are air ducts - one lets air in, the other exhausts. When further assembling the unit, it is important to understand in which direction the air flows circulate. To determine, you need to turn on the compressor for a short time and observe in which direction the circulation occurs. It is recommended to mark the “input” and “output” in different colors so as not to confuse them during assembly. An air check valve for the compressor will help prevent arbitrary changes in air direction.

In addition to the heart of the old refrigerator, to assemble a car compressor you will need:

Air receiver (a fire extinguisher is a good option).
Pressure gauge.
Coarse fuel filter.
Moisture separating filter.
Air pressure control relay.
Set of adapters, clamps, hoses.
Toggle switch for 220 Volt voltage.

At various stages of assembly you will need: a base for installing the finished unit, wheels (can be taken from old furniture), paint, motor oil and an anti-corrosion agent.

Receiver assembly

The compressor receiver is a durable container that contains air under pressure. The role played by the car air receiver is to eliminate pulsations during air supply by the compressor, which is carried out by equalizing the pressure in the system. The secondary role of the receiver is the storage of inert gases or condensate.

The receiver capacity is absolutely sealed, and the required volume depends on the cyclicity of air consumption by the consumer and the performance of the air compressor. Using a receiver extends the life of the compressor and is often used in a variety of applications including painting, industrial manufacturing and other industries.

An automobile air receiver can be manufactured in three ways:

Carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. Well suited for long-term storage of gases under pressure up to 10 atmospheres, it has durable steel walls and is safe to use. A fire extinguisher with a volume of 5-10 liters is sufficient for the receiver. To convert the fire extinguisher into a compressor receiver, you need to remove the shut-off and starting device and put the prepared hose adapter on the hole. The container must be emptied and washed thoroughly. Next, the plumbing cross is installed and sealed. After this, you can use the manufactured receiver for work.
Hydraulic accumulator. A more specialized device with a sufficient range of capacities. Disadvantage: low nominal pressure. Plus - suitable outlet thread. To use it as a receiver, you need to remove the internal membrane for storing carbon dioxide, and then connect the hose as in the example with a fire extinguisher.
Oxygen cylinder. Exceptional strength and air pressure of tens of atmospheres, but small capacity, inconvenient transportation and heaviness. To use, just connect the hose - the homemade receiver is ready for use!

A do-it-yourself air receiver can be made from any cylinder for storing compressed gases, but before use you need to make sure that the selected container can withstand the operating pressure of the future compressor.

Final assembly of the compressor unit

The compressor and receiver should be installed on one common base for ease of storage and transportation of homemade equipment. The compressor from the refrigerator, found earlier, must be cleaned of rust (if any). Next, the oil in the air compressor is changed, since the old one has probably become unusable. You can’t pour any oil into an air compressor; if you don’t have a special compressor lubricant, you can use motor oil, synthetic oil, or semi-synthetic oil.

Install the compressor and receiver on one common base for easy storage and transportation

The compressor is assembled in five successive steps, as follows:

Place the refrigerator blower on the prepared base and secure with threaded rods. The receiver is installed in a vertical position and secured by folded sheets of plywood in the amount of three pieces with a hole for the cylinder. Wheels are screwed to the bottom of the base for easy transportation.
Install the fuel filter on the compressor and the check valve for the air compressor in the air intake hole. For convenience, you can use a rubber hose.
At the outlet pipe of the supercharger, install a water separator through a hose - it can be taken from a diesel engine. To prevent the hose from breaking under pressure, it is necessary to strengthen the connection with automotive clamps. A moisture separator must also be installed at the inlet of the gearbox - a device for decoupling the pressure in the receiver and the compressor. The outlet pressure pipe is connected to one of the ends of the water cross.
Install a relay on the top of the crosspiece to regulate the pressure, and a pressure gauge on the free end for control. All joints must be firmly reinforced with fum tape and tightened with clamps to prevent failure.
Using a 220 Volt toggle switch, connect the mains phase to the compressor output. Insulate the contacts with electrical tape or dielectric casing.

After connecting the equipment to the network, you can consider that the oil-fired air compressor is assembled. You can plug the device into the network and check its functionality.

What problems can await during assembly?

Auto air compressors are simple devices in terms of design and operation, but during self-assembly you may encounter the following problems:

Oil supply to the wrong hole. Due to the presence of several tubes in the supercharger, it is possible to get confused and pour oil into the wrong hole. To prevent the problem, oil must be poured into either of the two inlet tubes - the outlet tube is excluded.
Small diameter of the receiver inlet. If using a standard cylinder thread is not possible, you need to solder the two elements using flux and attach a collet clamp. The final design can withstand pressure of 5-6 atmospheres.
Incorrect connection of blower tubes. In order for circulation in the system to occur smoothly and in one direction, you need to install a check valve on the compressor yourself. It will prevent possible problems and ensure stable operation of the supercharger.

Try to assemble the oil supercharger with your own hands in full accordance with the instructions, recommendations and safety rules. In this case, there will be no problems with the operation of the equipment.

Setting the required pressure

A motorcycle air compressor or car supercharger must be properly prepared for first use. To get started, you need to set the pressure mode using a relay. The adjustment is carried out using two springs - the large one sets the minimum pressure, the small one sets the maximum. The first contact of the relay is connected to zero, the second is attached to the supercharger.

When using the equipment for the first time, monitor the pressure gauge readings - the relay should turn the supercharger on and off when the lower and upper limits of the set pressure are reached, respectively. After final adjustments, you can paint the homemade supercharger and continue operation.

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neon6030 › Blog › Receiver for a compressor from a gas cylinder. Part 1.

After the last attempt to paint with the cheapest Chinese gun ( Hood painting) a thought came to mind like “let it float” and a more expensive Chinese pistol was bought)))

type XRP, nozzle 1.4

Well, as always - “The woman has a lot of trouble - she bought a pig”))) The new gun consumes many times more air, the compressor is catastrophically unable to cope. This is so Slavic - create a problem for yourself and then proudly solve it)) Buying another 220v compressor means blushing with shame every time you pass by three-phase sockets in the garage. And since there is a plan to build a 3-phase compressor, and there is even a ready-made electric motor with pulleys, I decided for now to extract everything that it can give from the old single-cylinder baby - to cut a ball valve into its receiver to take air into the entire hole:

The welding work was carried out by a friend and part-time neighbor, the guy professionally welds heating and plumbing, so if anyone needs it, I’ll get in touch.

A 100-liter propane cylinder from HBO was purchased as heavy artillery. I got it for $18 and was still half full of gas))) During descent into the atmosphere, the cylinder froze and stopped descending; you could see how much gas was left by the frost waterline)))

The container was ventilated for a couple of days, then they filled it with water and began to cook. I made legs from 4.5 mm steel to hang vertically on the wall...

... condensate drain from below, air intake from above...

The air inlet is made at the place where the float is installed so that the flow hits the inner wall of the receiver and loses as much moisture as possible:

Compressor receiver. Accurate calculation and selection

Why do you need a receiver in a compressor?

The compressor receiver performs several important functions:

Stabilizes the air pressure supplied to the working area (differences in pressure values are inevitable, since a single cycle of operation of any compressor involves a suction phase and an air injection phase).
They provide the supply of compressed air for some time in the event of interruptions in the operation of the compressor, or when an additional consumer is connected to it.
Cleaning the air from accumulating condensate, since high air humidity, which increases with increasing air pressure, leads to intense corrosion of the steel parts of the compressor.
The accumulation of compressed air in the receiver for the compressor leads to a subsequent reduction in the total vibrations in the system, which, in turn, reduces the overall noise level and reduces the level of loads on the base of stationary units.

The presence of a receiver, in addition, allows you to use the compressor periodically, i.e., reduce its consumption of electrical energy.

How to choose the optimal receiver parameters?

In addition to capacity, the compressor receiver is also characterized by:

Limit values of air humidity.
Operating conditions (allowed difference in external ambient temperatures -15...+40ºС and relative humidity no more than 75...80%).
Requirements for the installation location (away from heat sources, flammable and explosive materials, as well as in an atmosphere contaminated with mechanical particles - for example, near circular saws).

The selection of receiver characteristics for a compressor is done as follows. Set the required compressed air consumption, duration of its consumption, minimum and maximum pressure values. Next, using standard online calculation tables (for example, http://www.kaeser.ru/Online_Services/Toolbox/Air_receiver_sizes/default.asp) determine the required parameter. For example, with initial air flow data of 0.1 m 3 /min, peak load duration during operation of 5 minutes, permissible pressure difference minimum/maximum of 3/4 atm, the optimal volume of the receiver tank will be 500 liters.

For a compressor with a power of up to 5 kW – up to 100 l;
For a compressor with a power of up to 10 kW – up to 300 l;
For a compressor with a power of up to 20 kW – up to 550 hp.

V = (400×8)/60 = 53.33 (l)

Do-it-yourself additional receiver for a compressor

Depending on the calculated volume (it is easier to connect an additional receiver in series to the main one), a liquefied gas cylinder or a fire extinguisher body can be adapted for production.

The finished additional receiver, mounted for stability on a tripod welded from a steel bar, has the appearance shown in the photo.

When using this device, the following must be considered:

Installation of a condensate drain on an additional receiver is mandatory;
Before loading, it is necessary to check the compressor electric motor to see if it can work with an additional receiver. To do this, turn on the compressor drive at idle speed, and use a flow meter to check the actual difference in the parameter during long-term (more than 20 minutes) operation. If the pressure does not fall below the minimum set value, then an additional receiver can be used;
If the pressure drops, you will have to reduce the desired value of the on-time duration from the standard 75...80% to 50...60% (with lower values, it is not advisable to use a homemade receiver).

In order to create an additional reserve of a certain volume in the compressed air supply system, you may need to buy an additional receiver and install it in the existing pneumatic line.

Installing such equipment will help solve several production problems at once:

The supply of air that creates will allow you to avoid sudden surges and drops in operating pressure in the system;
- the compressed medium will be distributed more evenly;
- the operation of pneumatic consumer elements will become more stable;
- the number of compressor starts will be reduced, and it will operate in a more gentle mode;
- installation of an additional receiver will ensure the separation of some of the oil and moisture from the working line, which will reduce the load on the air treatment system.

As a rule, for piston and screw units of small and medium performance, a volume of 500 to . Such models are quite sufficient in most cases, and in addition, such equipment does not require registration with inspection authorities. Large capacity installations, including blowers, may require an additional receiver with a volume of 10, 20, 30, 50 cubic meters or more, which are more often referred to as.

In our catalog you will find additional compressor receivers of various sizes, designed for a wide range of pressures. When choosing equipment, be sure to keep in mind that the larger the volume of the receiver you install, the less often the compressor will start working, but at the same time its operating cycle to achieve the upper pressure threshold will be longer.

Additional receiver for compressor - price

The cost of an additional receiver depends on its working volume and maximum excess pressure. In addition, the cost can be influenced by such technical factors as: the material that was used to produce the receiver, its external and internal coating, the presence and quantity of auxiliary fittings. Often, the popularity of the manufacturer can also affect the price, so we recommend that you study this issue very carefully.

In order to buy an additional receiver, call our contact numbers or leave a request on our website and we will contact you immediately.

Most compressor stations, in addition to a machine that compresses gas to the required pressure, also include a metal container called a receiver. Often its size significantly exceeds the accompanying equipment. In this article you will find an explanation of why you need a receiver for a compressor, and by what parameters it is selected for a specific installation.

The purpose of the air container is directly related to the physical properties of compressed gases. The faster they lose pressure in the event of a flow, the smaller the volume they occupy. A receiver is needed in the compressor to perform the following functions:

creating the necessary supply of air to supply the consumer without turning on the engine or in case of its unexpected stop;
smoothing out pressure fluctuations, especially characteristic of piston machines;
ensuring the convenience of regulating the output parameters of the gas coming from the compressor unit;
reducing vibration, noise, peak load levels;
collecting moisture and small mechanical inclusions contained in the gas.

Important! Often, the use of large air collectors saves energy consumption due to the rational operation of the electric motor.

The compressor tank is traditionally made made of corrosion-resistant steel. It is also possible to use certain types of plastic and high-strength rubber for small volumes and pressures. Receivers for mobile installations can reach 100 liters. The dimensions of stationary equipment are not limited by anything and are often measured in several cubic meters.

To fill the cylinder and flow air from it, one fitting is enough, but models with a separate gas inlet and outlet work better. In order to control pressure, some manufacturers additionally provide installation of a pressure gauge. For large containers this requirement is mandatory. For their inspection and cleaning, hatches are welded in.

The spatial arrangement of the receiver is selected depending on the convenience of the equipment layout horizontal or vertical. The first option gives greater stability to mobile units. The second provides better condensate separation and requires less installation space.

Receiver selection

The technical requirements for compressor receivers are quite stringent. As high-pressure equipment, they may pose a potential hazard. The most important characteristics that determine the permitted parameters for using the tank are:

working pressure;
temperature range;
indicators of relative air humidity.

The rules for the design and safe operation of pressure vessels regulate the volume, frequency and method of their control tests for density and strength. They must be sealed, without visible defects and traces of external or internal corrosion.

From a technological point of view, an air compressor with a receiver is needed to ensure the operation of certain pneumatic equipment. What is important here is the required gas flow with the required pressure. This takes into account the operating mode with probable peak loads. All these indicators determine minimum receiver volume, capable of providing a stable air supply.

How to choose a receiver for a compressor that you already have? Take advantage special tables or calculation calculators.

Note! Simplified methods are based on averaged experimental data. It is believed that the cylinder for a compressor cannot be less than the volume of gas produced by it in 8 seconds of operation at normal loads.

An alternative option for choosing capacitive equipment based on compressor power. It gives the simplest dependency:

5 kW – up to 100 l;
10 kW – up to 300 l;
20 kW – up to 550 l.

All other values are obtained by interpolation.

Making and connecting an additional receiver with your own hands

It is not uncommon for a small workshop to need to accommodate new pneumatic equipment that the old air blower can no longer handle. You can try to solve this problem yourself if connect an additional receiver to the compressor. At the same time, it is not at all necessary to incur unjustified expenses when purchasing a standard container. Experienced craftsmen try to make do with improvised means.

In almost any household, old equipment designed to work under pressure often lies idle. You can make a receiver for a compressor with your own hands from a gas cylinder, a fire extinguisher or a piece of large-diameter seamless thick-walled pipe.

The most reliable is a homemade receiver made from a liquefied petroleum gas cylinder. To do this, the inlet valve is dismantled, after which the internal space is intensively washed or steamed. It is advisable to fill the container with water and allow the bottom sediments to dissolve in it during the day. Only after this can gas cutting and welding be carried out on the body if necessary.

Fittings for connecting a pressure gauge, air inlet and outlet, and a drain valve for condensate removal are welded into the cylinder.

Advice! It is convenient to adapt handles and wheels for mobile installations or a stable support in case of stationary applications.

The connection to the compressor is made using metal pipes or hoses designed to withstand high pressure. Assembled installation is required tested at maximum load, after which the optimal mode is selected for various situations.

Good afternoon In this article, using the example of my own compressor assembly, I want to show the method of building compressors from available parts for model airbrushing.

Main elements

The first step is to formalize the technical requirements for our product of goblin engineering.
Since I purchased a new dual action airbrush, I needed a compressor with a receiver. The fact is that, unlike a single-action airbrush, the new airbrush is able to control the air flow, lock it, and open the air duct. In European countries, many people use such an airbrush together with a separate compressed air cylinder, disposable or reusable; let’s leave the economic side of this aside. Air container - receiver- allows you to collect air like a cylinder. If air is continuously pumped into the air duct hose, then at some point the fitting may fail and the hose will fly out. Getting hit by a flying hose on any part of the body is extremely painful and unpleasant. And so - the airbrush uses air from a cylinder. So, a double-action airbrush involves the use of a receiver. We will return to it later.

The main thing is actually compressor. We will use a compressor from a refrigerator. Like a “pot” - because you can no longer find compressors of the “cylinder” type during the day, and they are all old. We decide on the choice of compressor using various sites selling refrigeration equipment. Probably the main criterion will be their price, since their air injection parameters are approximately equal. Some are stronger, some are weaker. Upon purchase, you can go to the store yourself, you can order delivery if they do not have a retail store and only work on the Internet. Before ordering, we look at the model of the compressor and write down the name of the company that produces it, using ctrl+c, or on a piece of paper. And we go to the manufacturer’s website. The manufacturer of the compressor that I found is Danfoss; on their website you can download a pdf file with a technical description of the compressor. Be sure to download it, we will need it!

Let's return to the receiver. The receiver should be a container designed to contain gases or liquids under high pressure. It is desirable that it meets the requirements of GOST. Let me make a reservation right away - a plastic bottle, plastic tanks, tanks and canisters do NOT belong to such things. Their use is a blatant violation of safety regulations! Let's consider the containers:

Option one- carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. A good option, tested, holds up to 10 atm. Very wide selection of capacities - 3,5,10 l. - it’s easy enough to get (you can buy it, you can get it “exhausted”). However, it has one significant drawback - a metric thread at the inlet. That's what I used.

Option two- hydraulic accumulator. A decent selection of containers, but has a low operating pressure. The inlet has a convenient 1 inch thread. It requires fine-tuning before use, since the inside is divided into a membrane containing carbon dioxide, which holds water under pressure. She needs to be pulled out. To get it, simply buy it at a construction hypermarket or construction market.

Option three- oxygen cylinder. Some samples can hold a huge number of atmospheres, however, either cylinders with an extremely small capacity, or heavy, massive ones, for welding work are available, and it is extremely difficult to get other options. But if you get some of the medical equipment (I'm afraid it's very expensive ), you can arrange an oxygen bar before assembly!!! =)))

Option four- cylinders for various gases (propane, etc.) - easy to get, otherwise similar to a fire extinguisher. However, it is written on them that use for compressed air is not recommended.

Connecting links between the gearbox and the receiver, air preparation unit

Now that the compressor and what will be the receiver have been determined, it is necessary to think about how they will be connected, and how the compressed air will flow to the airbrush.
The first is the unit that is attached directly to the receiver and ensures air distribution between the lines (it is necessary to mention that one of its main characteristics is compatibility with the connector on the receiver; I will mention screwing methods later).
The second is a pressure switch. The pressure switch must ensure that the compressor turns off when a certain pressure in the receiver is reached, and turns it on when the pressure drops to a minimum value. As a pressure switch, the best option is the RDM-5 relay for water supply systems. It is very easy to find and is sold in most plumbing supply stores. Please note that the RDM-5 connecting element is designed for 1-inch external thread.

Third, an indication of the pressure in the receiver is necessary. We buy a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 10 atm. These have connection size 1. Important - you need a static device.

Fourth is the air preparation unit. A certain pressure must be applied to the hose leading to the airbrush. Therefore, a gearbox is needed. The reducer must have a pressure control limit from zero to 8-10 atmospheres. It is also necessary that a pressure gauge be attached to it in order to see the value of the regulated pressure, as well as an oil separator filter. Because even from the receiver, particles of compressor oil can fly. Attention - do not buy a lubricator filter under any circumstances - it performs a diametrically opposite function.

Fifth - consumables, fittings, turns, tees. The main size of fittings is 1 inch; in order to calculate their number, it is necessary to draw a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit. In addition to them, we will need several adapters from 1 to 1 inches, external and internal.
Having looked at all the parts and components, let’s make a drawing of how it will all look assembled, for example, like this:

Now let's think about the placement of the entire structure. As an option - ordinary chipboards. In order to avoid dragging the entire structure around the apartment and workshop, we will provide roller legs, which are easy to find in any furniture store. To avoid the installation taking up a lot of space, I decided to place everything on two floors. To make it easier to work in the future, let’s draw the following diagram:

You will need either very long M8 bolts or short studs. As well as nuts and washers.
Now, to summarize the planning stage, let's write a list of required materials.

Compressor - 1 pc.
Receiver (fire extinguisher) 1 pc.
Pressure switch - 1 pc.
Pressure gauge - 1 pc.
Filter reducer - 1 piece.
Emergency valve - 1 piece.
Fittings, adapters - based on the selected scheme
Various plumbing gaskets, fum tape, sealant.
Cables, switch, plug + various small items for laying and connecting them.
A flexible hose (preferably oil-resistant), with a diameter that matches the outer diameter of the air outlet fitting of the compressor.
Chipboard plate for the stand, 4 roller legs, 4 M8x25 bolts or M8 studs, nuts, washers and other small hardware, as well as various tools.

Let's start assembling!

Compressor assembly

So, the shopping run is over, the diagram has been drawn, let's start the show =). The first difficulty I encountered was the assembly at the fire extinguisher outlet. There are several options here - dismantle the assembly and find a welder to weld the required adapter fitting. Due to my haste, I didn’t want to look for someone, so I did a simple thing - I unscrewed part of the valve (leaving the internal mechanics and removing the control element). An adapter with a 1-inch internal thread was fitted to one of the outputs, and an adapter from 1 to 38 was screwed into the other with a creak. Hand on heart, this (and, in fact, like the entire receiver) was made in violation of the rules for the operation of pressure vessels. It’s better to weld the new adapter with high quality (which, of course, is also not entirely according to the rules...).

The first stage of assembling the compressor is simple - we arm ourselves with a plumbing adjustable wrench, fum tape, sealant (attention, it subsequently hardens - if you want to make it for centuries - do not regret it!), and twist the adapters according to the plan outlined in advance. An important note - in order to ensure a tight connection, it is not necessary to tighten everything “to the point of creaking” - according to the law of meanness - tees and turns will never be at the desired angle. We install a reducer, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, and an adapter for a flexible hose. Each stage of the process must certainly be accompanied by fitting to the fire extinguisher receiver.

Carpenter versus joiner

“The viper with wheels is here!”
KF "Kin-dza-dza"

The second stage of assembly is carpentry. I took ready-made chipboard plates “from stock” and screwed furniture wheels onto them with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled the seats for them with a thin drill (this way they are screwed exactly in place and much easier). Be sure to ride the newly made product around the apartment (you need to check it out! =)) - you will be guaranteed the attention and interested reaction of your family (from the category of bad advice, it would be worth leaving a note “never repeat this yourself”). Since I was making a two-level stand, the next step was to mark and drill holes for the studs. I screwed the nuts approximately to the middle of each stud, measured out the perforated tape with a reserve (so that it would be a “bed” for the fire extinguisher) and hoisted the latter to the place intended for it.
Attention!!! Be sure to cover all bitten areas of the punched paper tape with electrical tape or other soft material to avoid the possibility of injury, or treat it so that there are no sharp edges or burrs left.

After positioning the fire extinguisher, I placed two more perforated tapes on top and secured them with nuts.
If you use a prepared hydraulic accumulator as a receiver, then most small (5, 6, 8 liters) models of the “horizontal” type have wonderful claw brackets at the bottom and top. The lower ones can be screwed to the base, and a compressor can be placed on the upper ones.

In my case, which I am using as an example, the structure consists of two levels. The “second floor” of the structure must be prepared before installation. We find suitable holes on the legs of the compressor (there are many of them), and, maintaining the geometry, mark and drill them on the “second floor”. It’s okay if the holes are slightly larger than the diameter of the bolts (I used M8), wherever needed I used wide washers. We mount the “second floor” plate, looking at the diagram that we talked about in the first part.
We install the compressor. In order to reduce vibration, it is necessary to provide some damping elements. I used ordinary plumbing silicone gaskets as them, making a kind of shock absorber out of them. We fix the compressor, do not forget to put washers.

We try on the air distribution module to the receiver. If something sticks, or is simply poorly positioned, the design can be changed. After fitting, we screw it on. Using a flexible hose, fum tape and clamps, we connect the outlet of the compressor and the inlet of the air preparation unit. The clamps must be tightened well, ensuring a tight fit of the hose - otherwise oil may leak and splash on the compressor side, and air may leak from the air distribution module side.

I sing the electric body. The finishing touches and...

“Mahmoud, set it on fire!”
KF "White Sun of the Desert"

First, a little theory about the motor used by the compressor. The compressor we are considering as an example uses a single-phase asynchronous machine as a drive. Therefore, to run it, you need different auxiliary devices. In our case, this is a starting winding with a capacitor. Carefully read the instructions for the compressor! The types of devices that provide drive starting can vary greatly between different models.
Now the most important thing is that you need to work with the installation’s connection diagram. There are several pitfalls here:

The compressor is taken out of the usual connection diagram. For it to work, you need to install a jumper.
It is advisable to provide protective elements (circuit breaker) - this is a controversial issue; in principle, in case of any excesses, the circuit breaker should operate on the group of sockets to which the compressor is connected - installing another circuit breaker, in my opinion, is not necessary.
The connection line must go through the relay and switch.
Sometimes, it is necessary to connect a capacitor to the compressor. It depends on its type. Be sure to check the specifications and manual for the compressor you are using.

The connection must be made according to the following scheme:

From the plug we lead the phase wire (L) to the switch. Next, connect the phase wire to the desired relay terminal. The neutral wire (N) remains untouched, if there is a ground wire, but if there is no ground wire, we connect the neutral wire to the ground terminal of the relay (a protective ground is obtained), from the relay we lead the phase and neutral wires to the compressor drive starting device (the box is like this it on the body), and according to the diagram we connect it to the corresponding terminals. It turns out something like this:

General view of the connection diagram. Connection diagram for relay RDM-5. Please note - we use terminal L1 to connect the phase, as well as the corresponding terminal on the top block - from it the wire will go to the compressor. L2 is not used! Also, under no circumstances connect the pads to each other - then the relay will not work.

From a regular plug (2.5 mm2 cable), through the switch, to the pressure switch (it is marked there where to connect what) and to the compressor. The cable at the plug can be of two types - with ground, phase and neutral, if your house is new, or simply with phase and neutral, if the house is old. In principle, you can stop worrying and connect the ground to the neutral conductor, as is done in old houses.
So, now for the system to work, we’ll install a jumper. It is installed directly on the terminal block of the starter. it is best to connect by soldering, but you can use crimp contacts of a suitable type (they are indicated in the description of the compressor). The jumper is shown in blue:

Jumper connection diagram in the starter.
This jumper is very important, as it ensures the connection of the windings to the phase.
At the end, carefully lay the cables using plastic ties and self-adhesive pads for them. Carefully inspect the cables for insulation integrity, and also check each connection for mechanical strength. Check carefully for possible short circuits - each wire must be carefully stripped and have contact only with the terminal intended for it.

Now we check everything, launch it, and start painting the models! =)