How to process photos in Lightroom and how to store them. How to Export Photos to Lightroom

Melt down the wax, but save the honey.
Kozma Prutkov

After processing photos in Lightroom (or in Photoshop) is completed, most often it is necessary to export them to a familiar format. Lightroom allows you to export images in the following formats: JPEG, TIFF, PSD and DNG. (And also export pictures as a catalog, for subsequent work with them as a separate catalog).

Export to Lightroom is available from any module through the menu commands:

And also in the Library module, through the Export button... (keyboard shortcut Ctrl+Shift+E)

Before exporting, photos need to be selected, which is convenient to do in the Grid (thumbnail) mode of the Library module, or on the frames ribbon below. Select the frames you want using Ctrl buttons or Shift, and execute the Export command.

Note: if no photos are selected, all photos in the current folder (collection) will be exported.

An export window will open in front of you:

This window contains all the export parameters, which I will describe in detail below.

In the top line of the window, it is written how many photos are supposed to be exported. If I see that one photo is being exported, it usually means that I forgot to select the photos before calling the Export command. There is no need to be upset; you can continue setting up the export and then click Cancel. The next time you open this window, all settings will be saved from the last time (even if Cancel was clicked). Which is very convenient for a forgetful person like me!

Below is a button panel Files on Disk, for advanced users of 64-bit systems (my case) this is the only option. If the OS is 32-bit, you can also choose to write to disk.

Export Location - File location

The Export To list: contains two options, a folder with original photos ( Same folders as original photo), or a special folder ( Specific folder).

If selected Specific folder, then the small triangle reveals the last used options. Using a button Choose... You can specify any folder on your computer.

Option Put in Subfolder: Creates a subfolder with the desired name.

Add to This Catalog adds the exported files to the Lightroom catalog. If you select S tack with Original then the pictures will be linked into stacks with the originals, similar to what happens when sending a picture to Photoshop.

Existing Files: Choose what to do if the file names match. I left the item Ask what to do- ask what to do.

File Naming – file naming settings

When exporting, you can leave the names of the images as they are or rename them according to some rule. Dropdown list Template contains several templates, as well as an item Edit, in which you can set your own file naming method.

One of the most convenient templates is Custom Name – Sequence. If you don't want to fool your clients with names like IMG_1660. Then select this template, enter a name, for example “Mary_Poppins” and you will receive files like:
Mary_Poppins-1
Mary_Poppins-2
Mary_Poppins-3
…

But the most opportunities open up if you select the item Edit

In the screenshot there is a template that original name file adds suffix
web-900px_C, which means for me that the files are prepared for the Internet, with a width of 900px and are provided with copyright.

In this editor, you can manipulate the file name, folder name, numbering method, date, and metadata. I think this will be enough for the most exotic requests. You can also save your designs into templates.

The file extension (jpg, tiff, etc.) is added automatically, depending on the selected file type.

File Settings – file format settings

Everything is simple here, depending on the selected file type, its settings are displayed. For example for type JPEG file You can choose the color space and compression level. Moreover, the quality is indicated not as in Photoshop on a 12-point scale, but as a percentage. The maximum quality corresponds to 100 ( minimal losses when compressed).

Let's look at the settings for exporting to DNG (digital negative) format.

File Extension: dng or DNG – small or large letters in extension.

JPEG Preview: size of the saved preview, enlarges the file and speeds up viewing.

Image Conversion Method: It is better to use the method Preserve Raw Image. Use Convert to Linear Image– only if you are sure that it is necessary for your type Raw file ov.

Compressed (losses): compression (lossless) – reduces the file by half.

Embed Original Raw File– include the original Raw file – actually stores two files, the size increases proportionally (twice for Canon). The original Raw can be extracted using the Adobe DNG converter.

Image Sizing – changing the size of a photo

Allows you to change the size of the image, for example for publishing on the Internet.

Check the box Resize to Fit and the following items will become available in the drop-down list:

Width & Height(width and height) sets a limit on the width and height of the image. For example, with values ​​of 900x600. Photo horizontal orientation will be exported in size 900x600, and portrait 400x600.

Dimensions(dimensions) limitation on the long and short sides. At values ​​of 900x600. The horizontal photo will be exported with dimensions 900x600, and the vertical photo 600x900.

Long Edge(long side)
Short Edge(short side)
One of the sides is specified, the other is calculated based on the proportions of the photo.

Check mark Don`t Enlarge– prohibits enlarging the photo; resizing will only occur downward.

In the drop-down list you can specify the units of measurement: pixels, inches or centimeters. As well as resolution (pixel density) pixels per inch or pixels per centimeter.

Printing devices rarely focus on resolution (pixels per inch); usually, print sizes are specified explicitly: you need a photograph of 20x30 cm!

Therefore, you don’t have to pay attention to this parameter (it’s 300 or 240, it doesn’t matter). And measure your images in pixels. For digital image this is the only objective indicator.

A photo measuring 4272x2488 is a 12 megapixel image. And it can be printed in both 10x15 cm and A3 sizes. But if I want to put it on my blog, I will reduce it to 900x600 pixels.

Outout Sharpening - adding sharpness

Applies in addition to the sharpness specified in the Develop module.

You can select the type: monitor, matte paper or glossy paper, and the degree: low, standard or high.

It is known that when you reduce an image with good sharpness, the picture becomes slightly blurred. In Photoshop, there is a special mode for this Bicubic Sharper.

In Lightroom, after zooming out the image looks quite sharp. The algorithm slightly enhances the sharpness of edges; it is something between the regular Bicubic and Bicubic Sharper modes. But for my taste, the sharpness can be improved by setting Sharper For in the settings: Screen Amount: High.

Here are examples of a fragment, a sharp photo has been reduced from 3184 to 1280 px in width. Top: simple reduction in size in lightroom, bottom: reduction with sharpening Screen (High).

Metadata – metadata export

Minimize Emded Metadata– removes almost all metadata from the image. All that remains is the line from , of course, if it was filled in. Everything else: information about the camera, shooting conditions, software, disappears without a trace.

Convenient if you don't want to inform other people about it.

Write Keywords as Lightroom Hierarchy– if you use hierarchy in keywords, then when this option is enabled, they will be written in export files also in the form of a hierarchy (if the Export Containing Keywords option is enabled in the keyword).

Add Copy Watermark– adds a line from the following to the lower left corner of the photo:

Unfortunately, you cannot change the font, spelling, or size of the watermark.

Post-Processing - post processing

Here you can set the actions to be performed with images after export. In the dropdown list After Export contains the following points:

Do nothing– do nothing, selected by default.

Show in Explorer– opens a folder with exported images. Very convenient, I use this item often. The only pity is that if the folder is already open, then Lightroom does not switch to it but opens the folder again.

Open in...— open in the editor.

– shows the folder Export Actions, where you can add application shortcuts or Photoshop Droplets. Quite a powerful automation mechanism in Lightroom. Below I will show one example of its use.

Export Preset - use of presets when exporting

Since many settings are specified during export, and the same options are often needed, it is convenient to use them in the form of presets. Lightroom does this quite conveniently.

On the left in the export window, there is a section with a list of presets and two add buttons Add and delete Remove preset

You can cancel it there by clicking on the cross.

Connecting an email client

Finally, the promised example of use Export Actions. Lightroom has a For E-Mail preset that prepares photos for sending via email. If you are using mail client, then this preset can be improved somewhat.

So, open the export window (Ctrl+Shift+E), and select the For E-Mail preset on the left side of the window. You can change it to your liking.

Then in the section select the item Go to Export Actions Folder Now. Lightroom will show the folder Export Actions, open it. Then open the folder where your favorite email client is installed. I have this The Bat! and it is located in the folder C:\Program Files (x86)\The Bat!

A little wait... And if your mail program is not password protected, you will see a created letter with your exported photos attached.

All that remains is to fill out the field: “To.” Not bad, right?

Hello friends! Today is the third episode Lightroom FAQ. You can familiarize yourself with the first part, and with. All questions in this issue relate in one way or another to the Export command.

This question often arises among novice users, because in Lightroom there is no Save as command, there is not even a simple Save command! In order to save a photo as a JPEG in Lightroom, you need to use the “Export” command. From the File menu, select Export or simply press Ctrl+Shift+E.

This will open the “Export” window:

Where in the section you can select the JPEG format and configure it. You can read more about the Export command in Lightroom in the corresponding lesson.

Question: How do I add my logo to a photo using Lightroom?

Lightroom 3 now has the long-awaited ability to add your logo to photos, the so-called Watermark! The tool is available in the Slideshow, Print, Web modules, as well as during export.

Let's consider adding a logo during export. In the Export window, find the Watermarking section and check the appropriate box there.

Then select Edit Watermarks... from the drop-down list.

The Watermark Editor window will open, allowing you to customize your logo.

There are two logo options: text and graphic. You can switch between them using the buttons in the upper right corner.

For graphic logo are supported JPEG formats or PNG. In this case, you can adjust the transparency, relative sizes, indents and position in the photo. It's quite simple.

For the text option, you can select and customize the font, and add a shadow effect.

After customizing your logo, save it under a convenient name for future use.

You can create several logo variations for different purposes.

You can also add a logo to photos in Photoshop using an action, which I talked about in the article “Batch processing in Photoshop - logo on photos”.

Question: After exporting, the images become noisier than when viewed in Lightroom, what happens?

You may be sharpening your photos further during export. Check section Output Sharpening. You need to understand that any sharpening algorithms visually increase noise in photographs. Therefore, after exporting this way, you may end up with noisier photos than they were in Lightroom.

I only use additional sharpening when exporting when making smaller images. When you make an image smaller, noise is less noticeable, but details may appear too soft, so it makes sense to sharpen the image further. There are no problems with noise.

That's all for today! Have a great day and pre-holiday mood everyone! 🙂

If you follow the work of some photographers, you may have noticed that each of them has their own style. But this does not mean that they try to make each of their photographs similar to the previous one. An example of such photographers would be club photographers.

At first glance, the work of a club photographer may seem interesting and fun (after all, he works in an entertainment place), but imagine what it’s like to process hundreds, thousands of photographs? And you need to submit the work quickly. Comes to our aid.

Now that we have processed one photo, how do we process the rest? I suggest you create your own preset!

Select a photo that you like and based on which you want to make a preset. Attention, you must be in “mode” Corrections”.

Have you chosen? Now let's start saving the preset. Method create a preset two, they are no different, but for you, dear readers, I will show two at once. Moreover, the differences will be only in one step.

Step 1.1. In the menu we look for the section “ Corrections” and in the submenu “ New preset...”

Step 1.2. Or you can use the “+” button in the list of presets.

Step 2. In the window that appears in front of us, the program will offer to select the settings that you want to include in the preset. And also choose a name for the future preset.

Step 3. After saving the preset, it will appear in the “ User Presets”.

And we learned save your preset in lightroom.

Now you can use your preset on other photos. But, you must understand that in one photo it can look perfect, but in another it can look simply terrible. Shooting conditions are different, and it is worth using it only for the same photo shoot, and then most likely you will have to adjust each photo. But, this is better than processing a photo from scratch for each frame.

Updated: 03/03/2019

Oleg Lazhechnikov

17 833

I've reached the last article related to photography, hurray! There are a lot of holivars on the Internet on the topic of processing: both regarding what it should/shouldn’t be done, and regarding how exactly to do it. My view on this topic is based on what result I personally want to get and at what cost. Let me clarify: first of all, I shoot for a blog and for my family archive, that is, I do not directly earn a living from photographs. Plus, I can’t spend too much time on them, otherwise I won’t have time to work; after all, I have to process a lot of photos. I publish 2-3 articles a week on my website, each with about 20-40 photos. On the other hand, I also cannot release completely unprocessed ones, they are faded (because RAW), there are often too bright or too dark areas, etc., and I myself don’t like such photos. That is, it would probably be possible to post any, but this is not my option.

How I process photos in Lightroom

Thus, I am a supporter of shallow processing due to the lack of motivation to spend a lot of time on it, and I don’t see much difference for myself yet. Of course, occasionally I can conjure a little longer, but this “masterpiece” still has nowhere to go. Now I do all the processing in Lightroom, and I’ve already forgotten when I used other programs. So, if you are comfortable with Photoshop and prefer to process photos quite heavily, then you are unlikely to find anything worthwhile in this post :)

Like I said, I do all the editing in Lightroom and it's pretty simple. In fact, I just crop and level the horizon, draw out the shadows and darken the highlights, add color and sharpness.

Importing photos and presets

I insert the flash drive from the camera into the card reader and import the photo and transfer it to external hard disk. I’ll write about storing photos below. When importing, I use pre-created presets: and . Now I only use the latter (I have a Sony A6500), it has more settings for my camera and the way I shoot. There are a couple more for the phone and a second camera.

But the presets are very similar, they differ slightly only in the settings for shadows, highlights and exposure, and I constantly adjust them, because either my opinion changes, or once again I try to adjust the settings to most photos in order to process them less. Some of the repeating settings are: Clarity +25, Vibrance +25, Sharpening +60, Noise Reduction Luminance +65, Enable Lens Correction. The latter is quite important, as it adjusts the photo (mainly geometric distortions are removed) to your lens. But this is only if Lightroom knows your camera. For example, for the Canon G7xm2 I then have to manually select something similar to it.

Regarding presets, I want to say right away that there is no right or wrong here. Well, if we talk about amateurs, everything is different for pros, although they may also have a special author’s style. Therefore, you can create a preset for yourself with any settings you like, and it will be correct. After all, the main thing is that it suits you, you process them simply because “that’s how I see it.” Here, of course, you can argue, I don’t insist :) It’s never too late to read about professional processing, about how gurus suggest using this or that setting and changing their presets.

I don’t rename the files, I leave them as they are.

Photo thinning

The next step after import and before processing is thinning. I usually delete: photos that are blurry, duplicates (when about 20 photos of the same object were taken), all photos with defects (too dark, too overexposed, etc.), just photos that I don’t like. Sometimes I can leave it with a defect if there is nothing like that, but the photo is really necessary.

But in general, after a couple of years of photography, I began to spend much less time on thinning and thinning out less carefully, at first I left almost 50% somewhere. Easier hard drives change to more capacious ones and buy new ones, rather than sit for several days and thin out. Moreover, my archive is not growing that fast. Plus, more than once there has already been such a moment that suddenly it was necessary deleted photo, albeit defective.

Thinning also happens in Lightroom, I mark the photo as Rejected with the X key, then I delete all those marked at once.

Framing and leveling the horizon

At first I did the framing very often, then I apparently got my bearings and built a normal composition already at the photography stage. In the article I said that I use the rule of thirds, so when framing, I use it in the same way. Not fanatical.

White balance

Since I always photograph with automatic white balance, I correct it in the program by eye using the Temp and Tint levers. I mostly use the first one, the second less often. Sometimes you can use Auto to get Lightroom's opinion. By the way, it’s difficult to edit colors regular monitors, because they are not calibrated, and the matrices themselves have poor color rendering. That is, you will do as you see fit, but other users will see everything completely differently.

Now I have Macbook Pro 15″ s Retina screen. I consider it, of course, not a reference, but very good in color rendition. Also, 15 inches of double resolution is quite enough for me for photo processing.

Pulling out shadows and darkening highlights

Since many photographs have some problems with dynamic range, processing can reduce them. To do this, I lighten the shadows with the Shadows lever (move it to plus), then darken the too bright areas of the Highlights (move it to minus). I adjust the resulting result Exposure (plus or minus, depending on the situation) and often also adjust White and Blacks. Oh, and I almost forgot, I add Contrast, because when lightening the shadows it is lost, and occasionally I add Clarity (up to 50), increasing the micro-contrast. Although usually the contrast and micro-contrast are immediately set by the preset when importing to the fixed values ​​I need (+10 and +25, respectively).

I personally prefer photos with micro-contrast rather than high-contrast or sharpened photos. That's why I sometimes even turn Shadows up a lot, and then increase Clarity. How watchable it is for you is up to you to decide. Well, I often create contrast not using Contrast, but using White and Blacks, this way it’s possible to adjust it more accurately, because it’s adjustable on “both sides.”

Adding Color

Previously, I used 2 resets: Blue Sky 0.5 (), or Skin toning lighter (). The first preset was spied on by Sergey Dolya (it was called Matts Blue Sky 1), but I remade it a little, reducing the parameter changes by half. I don’t remember where I downloaded the second one. So, now Blue Sky 0.5 is already “hardwired” into the preset when importing, so I have reduced my processing steps a little more.

Blue Sky is needed to increase the blueness of the sky, but for this it should not be too overexposed (otherwise it will be useless), and to increase the saturation of yellow and orange flowers. It's important to mention that sometimes you need Luminance to blue set it back to zero, otherwise the blue color will not be natural.

Skin toning changes the balance of light, making the skin color more similar to the real one. But the truth is that everything around also changes balance, not just the skin. So let's say, for lovers of warm shades and lamp-like qualities.

Sharpening and noise reduction

Since all the photos are either posted on a blog or on Instagram, that is, the photos will be viewed only from the screen, and not in maximum resolution, but about 1000 px in width, the sharpness can be painlessly raised in the program. My sharpness is also set by a preset during import (+60). Depending on the photo, I may lower the Sharpening values ​​to avoid over-sharpening or noise. Actually, noise neutralization also occurs during import and then I rarely touch the Luminance lever (+65). Basically, you have to reduce Sharpening and Luminance for jpegs received from a point-and-shoot camera or smartphone.

And again I’ll mention the Clarity tool here. In fact, it also makes the photo sharper.

Using Additional Tools

Most often, of all the ones presented, I use a gradient filter to lighten/darken a part of a photo, or change the contrast or white balance of a certain part of a photo. Sometimes it's better to use a brush instead, which is more convenient when you need to change a complex area, for example, a face where you need to remove the Clarity (otherwise it will be too structured). IN latest versions In Lightroom, these tools have much more settings; you can change anything you want in the selected area.

I use the stamp less often to remove some debris from the photo.

Export

After I have processed the image, I check the flag (Set Flag -> Flagged) with the P key. This will allow, after I am done with all the images, to display only them using the filter (Filter by flag -> Flagged only), view once again only on processed images and export them all en masse. For each article, I usually process about 20-40 photos.

I have already created a special preset for export. In it, the folder for export, the size of the exported jpeg (2048×2048), its quality (75%), sharpness during export (High), saving meta data, watermark (can be configured and saved as a preset) are selected. For Instagram I make the quality 100%, I don’t add a watermark.

End result

In fact, in the example above there was some attempt to expand dynamic range(if you expand it too much, it will be pseudo HDR). Naturally, it is not always necessary to carry out exactly such manipulations with photographs, but usually they are very similar: adjusting the blue/yellow balance, brightening shadows, darkening bright areas, increasing contrast. It's just when it's not like that big difference between dark and light areas, then the levers will not need to be moved to extreme positions, but only very slightly and this is done, of course, by eye.

Why Lightroom

It's simple, it just happened. I tried and liked this program. It's great for correcting photos rather than deeply editing them. Here everything is done exactly for this purpose, all the tools are there. Plus, I have my entire photo library in it, and I can quickly find everything I need: there are a bunch of different filters, you can tag photos (I really don’t use this at all).

There are plenty of analogues, but I don’t want to try anything yet, everything suits me.

About resizing in WordPress

I can’t help but mention this thing that can be important for bloggers on the WordPress platform. I upload photos to my blog that are 2048px wide, but in the post they are displayed at 800px ( full size by clicking, the photo is shown in a lightbox). If you upload full-size photos on your blog, and the engine itself resizes them to the size you need, then this is not a good idea, unless, of course, quality is important to you. The fact is that the built-in resize will significantly spoil the sharpness, the photos will turn out blurry. However, few visitors will notice this, unless of course you have a photographer’s portfolio offering your services. Well, there may not be enough space on the hosting, since a full-size JPG can easily take up 10 megabytes.

As an option, use the Sharpen Resized Images plugin, it will add sharpness when resizing, but it also does it quite roughly.

How do I store photos

All photos, videos and other files are stored on an external portable hard drive Seagate drive 4TB, because they don’t fit on a laptop disk. This disc I always have it with me. The photo archive now takes up about 1.5 TB (as of 2017), which is actually not very much if you are a photographer or blogger and shoot a lot. The file structure is shown in the screenshot below. As a rule, there is a separate folder for each trip, inside of which there are 2-3 more folders for each camera. But if the trip is long and to different cities, then each city also has its own folder.

The folders have this structure: Year/Month_Date_Event Name/Shooting Device. The directory structure in Lightroom is exactly the same. And what’s convenient is that you can put a photo in any folder on the disk, and then synchronize this folder in Lightroom, and the photo will appear in the program. For me, such a structure is quite convenient for storage, and does not take additional time for cataloging; once done, that’s all. Nowadays there is simply a tendency to lump everything into one pile, and only then the program itself distributes the photos according to different criteria. I like this option less.

I store the photos in originals, that is, in RAW, so that I can make what I need from the photo at any time. And in Lightroom, in my settings, I have the option to save all photo information to XMP files. After all, when processing RAW, nothing happens to the file itself; all information about the actions performed is stored in the catalog file. So XMP is a duplicate of information for each photo, it weighs quite a bit, so the total volume does not increase much. Thanks to XMP files, it is easier to transfer photos to other computers and this is a kind of protection against the fact that something happens to the catalog file; there have already been precedents, it was necessary to delete it.

Where to backup photos

In addition to how to store photos, it is important where else to backup them. First you need to remember the golden rule that there should be 2 backups. As I already said, all my photos are stored on an external hard drive, that is, this is the main database, and I still need to make 2 backups (copies) to it. Your main base can be on a hard laptop, it’s more convenient.

I make the first backup to another external one hard drive. About once every 3 months (and before each trip) I do full copy from one external (main) to the second (backup). So that this does not take time, I set it to copy at night, and in the morning everything is ready. Second hard I don’t take the disk on trips, which means the risk of ruining it is minimal.

I make the second backup to the cloud from the main hard drive, specifying the folder with the database as the folder for the cloud. While I'm using cloud service Mail.RU, because in 2014 they had a promotion and they gave 1TB for life. But this place I no longer have enough, plus I don’t like the download speed, and the fact that the storage is not very reliable, there was already a case when they deleted some of my files. Therefore, I want to switch to, which is now considered the most functional and safe. There is a good paid tariff without space restrictions. In principle, I already use it and keep it important files, but for now with a free tariff.

And one more important point, it seems to me. Since on all my trips I take only one external hard drive, where the main database is stored, there is a risk of ruining it. This is not scary, since a copy is kept at home, but you can lose photos from current trips if they are constantly transferred from the flash drive to the main drive. So, whenever possible, I leave all the files on the flash drive, rather than deleting them immediately after transferring them to the hard drive. Yes, for this you need a larger volume of flash drives (or several pieces) so that they are enough for the entire trip, but there is a guarantee. Also, if on the trip there is good internet in the hotel, then the files also fly to the cloud.

P.S. That's all I can tell you about photo processing and storage. Not a lot, but what is there :)

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        06/13/2014 at 16:15 |

Sometimes after processing photos in Lightroom or Photoshop, some users have photos that differ in color and contrast when saving and uploading them to the Internet or viewing them in another graphic editor or just on the computer. They don't look the same as in Photoshop or Lightroom.

For example, our poster looks in Photoshop like the first picture, and when saved it turns into the second picture:

In order for your photos to be equally correctly displayed after saving and to retain their color and contrast, you need to correctly configure the programs, Photoshop and Lightroom.

The Internet, almost all monitors and phone screens operate in sRGB color mode, therefore, we need to configure programs so that they save and show us an sRGB image on the monitor.

Adobe Lightroom

Let's start with Lightroom. Here it is enough to install correct parameters export photos. After processing the photo, we click “export” and in the window that appears, check that the “color space” sRGB is indicated in the “file format” section. That's it!

And also, if you save photos for publication on the Internet, on social networks or on forums, you need to prepare the photos in advance so that when uploaded to the appropriate resource they do not lose quality and richness.

File Format

Image size. Social networks and forums have a limit on the size of the uploaded photo, and if the photo is larger than the allowed limit, it is automatically compressed. Well, automatic interpolation algorithms will only spoil the quality of your photo. To avoid this, you need to reduce it in advance. The photo size should be chosen based on simple logic, so that when viewing and with mobile phone, and from the computer it retained its sharpness. Optimal size for the Internet, the values ​​now range from 1400 pixels along the long side to 2100. In particular, for VKontakte, 1680 pixels along the long side would be ideal.

Output sharpness. For the Internet, the more, the better. Within reasonable limits. In Lightroom we set it to “strong”.

After these settings, your photo is ready to be published on the Internet.

Adobe Photoshop

In order to set up the correct color rendition in Photoshop, go to “edit”, “color settings”.

And in the window that appears, select settings “ universal settings for Europe 3".

If your Photoshop does not have presets for Europe, then simply set the RGB field to “sRGB IEC61966-2.1”, there will always be one sRGB profile.

“Preview” – “color proof options” – and set the Internet standard to sRGB.

And also when opening a RAW file in Photoshop, pay attention and set the sRGB profile.

Now your Photoshop correctly reproduces and preserves all the colors in the photo.

Saving a photo for the Internet in Adobe Photoshop

You can also prepare a photo for export to the Internet in Photoshop. To do this, you first need to reduce it, then add sharpness.

Reduce using “image” – “image size”:

We set the unit of measurement to “pixels” and in the “width” field indicate the size we need. We leave resampling automatic or set it to “bicubic (with reduction)”.

After reduction, you need to add sharpness to the photo. “Smart sharpening” is perfect for this.

We definitely do new layer and go to “filter” – “sharpening” – “smart sharpening”.

We set the noise reduction to 0. The radius for a reduced photo is in the range from 0.3 to 1. For a photo with a size of 1680 pixels on the long side, a radius of 0.4 - 0.5 is suitable. The effect is also found in the range from 70 to 150.

Since we made a new layer, we can set a strong “sharpening effect”, for example 180, and then, by reducing the opacity of the sharpening layer, achieve the correct sharpness of the photo.

Sharpness values ​​are selected by eye, but for the Internet it is better to do more sharpening. The photo will look much more expressive on the screen.

Polina Maslenkova

For all those who are at sea, we have compiled a selection best advice for photographing seascapes. Take it into service and don’t forget to take a camera with you on vacation (and also a tripod, a couple of filters and inspiration, where would you be without it :)

Oleg Nasytko

We will tell you in this article how to use the most favorite mode of portrait photographers, play with depth of field and beautifully blur the background.

Arthur Shah-Huseinov

These were two incredible days, filled with filming of the newlyweds in interesting locations in the city and Podgoretsky Castle in the vicinity of Lvov.

Polina Maslenkova

Even photographers take pictures sometimes. How to choose a photographer for yourself if you are a photographer yourself and the quality bar is set quite high?

Polina Maslenkova

We talked with our teacher of food photography in Minsk and the basics of photography in Vitebsk about what it’s like to shoot in 100 cities around the world every year and have more than 60 thousand followers on Instagram. Polina Maslenkova

The graduation of group 2607 Andrey Barilo was brilliant!

From our photo report you will see how the last lesson in our photography school is going and what kind of work graduates of Basics of Photography bring to their diploma.

Oleg Nasytko

On Saturday, the last lesson in the group on the basics of photography took place - the first class of Andrey Barilo! The guys presented their best works and received certificates. See how it happened in the photo report.