• USB cable pinout. USB port pinout and micro USB pinout: diagram, wire colors

    This article provides general information about the USB standard, as well as pinoutUSB connector by colors of all types (USB, mini-USB, micro-USB, USB-3.0).

    USB (Universal Serial Bus) connector is a universal-purpose serial bus, modern way connections external devices to a personal computer. Replaces previously used connection methods (serial and parallel port, PS/2, Gameport, etc.) for regular views peripheral devices— printers, mice, keyboards, joysticks, cameras, modems, etc. This connector also allows you to organize data exchange between a computer and a video camera, card reader, MP3 player, external hard disk.

    The advantage of the USB connector over other connectors is the ability to connect Plug&Play devices without the need to restart the computer or manual installation drivers. Plug&Play devices can be connected while the computer is running and be up and running within seconds.

    When connecting a new device, first the hub (cable hub) receives high level via a data line, which reports that new equipment has arrived. Then the following steps follow:

    1. The Hub informs the Host computer that a new device has been connected.
    2. The host computer asks the hub which port the device was connected to.
    3. After receiving a response, the computer issues an activation command of this port and performs a bus reset.
    4. The hub generates a reset signal (RESET) with a duration of 10 ms. The output power current of the device is 100 mA. The device is now ready for use and has a default address.

    The creation of USB is the result of collaboration between companies such as Compaq, NEC, Hewlett-Packard, Philips, Intel, Lucent and Microsoft. USB standard was intended to replace the widely used serial port RS-232. USB generally makes the job easier for the user and has greater bandwidth than the RS-232 serial port. The first USB specification was developed in 1995 as a low-cost, universal interface for connecting external devices that did not require much data bandwidth.

    Three USB versions

    USB 1.1

    Version USB 1.1 was designed to serve slow peripheral devices (Low-Speed) with a data transfer rate of 1.5 Mbit/s and fast devices(Full-Speed) with a data transfer rate of 12 Mbit/s. USB 1.1, however, was unable to compete with high speed interface, For example. FireWire (IEEE 1394) from Apple with data transfer speeds up to 400 Mbit/s.

    USB 2.0

    In 1999, they began to think about the second generation of USB, which would be applicable to more complex devices (for example, digital video cameras). This new version, referred to as USB 2.0, was released in 2000 and provided maximum speed up to 480 Mbit/s in Hi-Speed ​​mode and remains backward compatible with USB 1.1 (data transfer type: Full-Speed, Low-Speed).

    USB 3.0

    The third version (also referred to as Super-speed USB) was designed in November 2008, but was probably delayed until 2010 due to the financial crisis. USB 3.0 has more than 10 times the speed of USB 2.0 (up to 5 Gbit/s). New development has 9 wires instead of the original 4 (the data bus already consists of 4 wires), however, this standard still supports USB 2.0 and provides lower power consumption. This allows you to use any combination of USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 devices and ports.

    The USB connector has 4 pins. Connects to DATA+ and DATA- contacts twisted pair(two wires twisted together), and regular wires are connected to the VCC (+5 V) and GND pins. Then the entire cable (all 4 wires) is shielded with aluminum foil.

    Below is the pinout (wiring) of all types of USB connectors.

    Types and pinout of USB connectors

    USB cable pinout by color:

    1. +5 volts
    2. -Data
    3. +Data
    4. General

    USB connector pinout diagram - type A:

    USB connector pinout diagram - type B:

    Cable wiring according to connector colors:mini (mini) and micro (micro) USB:


    1. +5 volts
    2. -Data
    3. +Data
    4. Not used / Shared
    5. General

    Mini-USB connector pinout - type A:

    Hi all. Today I will tell you in detail and show you how I change micro-USB connectors and other little things, on your knees,” i.e. at home, without special skills and special professional expensive paraphernalia and substances. Simply armed with inspiration, always helpful optimism, ingenuity, perseverance, patience and enough time.

    Yesterday they brought me a smartphone for repair Lumia Denim 630 with a faulty power socket, with the words: “Shows charging - but doesn’t want to charge!” The smartphone looked monolithic, without screws and latches, I thought: Well, that’s a waste! Now you’ll have to warm it up with a hairdryer!”, although after fiddling around it turned out that it’s easy to open, since the insides are in a lid-“trough” that can be easily separated (on the internal latches). Those. Nokia developers have thought out everything in a military way.” For this I give them a tasty like!

    The socket appeared to be in good condition, no cracks were found in the soldering joints, which means, as often happens, the fault lay in erased contacts inside the connector. I decided to boldly change it to a new one. After the repair, I disassembled the old socket and, indeed, the contacts were covered in dirt, oily felt, and looked worn out. I forgot to take a photo, but in general, see what kind of dead connectors there are, see the photo attached to the article.

    A sure sign that the socket needs to be replaced

    I bought the nests on Ali Express, in a bunch of about 100 pieces, 10 types, which is convenient.

    Set of micro-usb sockets

    I found something suitable, but not identical, which had to be modified and filed.

    The nest needs to be adjusted

    As it turned out later, despite the almost external similarity of the socket, the gold-plated contacts on it did not fit in height, that is, they hovered above the board! Take note!

    I adjusted the socket, but did not notice the discrepancy with the original

    I had to select a new nest, file it again, and adjust it, since I didn’t have what I needed.

    The nest needs to be adjusted

    When adjusting, a slight misalignment of the socket was revealed, i.e. opening the fastening locks of the socket, which had to be put in place, soldered and slightly adjusted to the cover of the smart with a sharp knife.

    The nest is adjusted

    And all because the nests ordered in bulk are cheap, which means they are simpler, made of not very durable metal, in comparison with the original nests. Native nests, as a rule, are very expensive, made well, reliably, but you can’t stock up on them for any occasion. Ordering relatives in China and waiting tediously is problematic. I decided by disassembling the old nest, weighing the pros and cons, and comparing price tags in Ali.

    For desoldering, I use a special hot air gun, although you can completely get by with a construction hair dryer, while being vigilant and attentive so as not to fry everything all around.

    Soldering gun

    Be sure to cover all plastic parts, capacitors, with confectionery foil or chocolate, otherwise they may melt! Then the damage to your smart phone may come suddenly and unexpectedly! 🙂 I.e. First, you warm up the entire board in a circular motion so that it doesn’t get driven by the propeller from the temperature difference, and then you heat the socket itself in a circular motion (about 300 degrees, check with a multimeter’s temperature sensor or using your intuition and your fingers). Before warming up, it is advisable to simply solder the socket with regular solder with flux or rosin (mix your tin with the factory one, this will make desoldering easier), since the factory solder on the board is often lead-free, which causes problems with soldering the socket.

    By the way, for ease of work, I get by with an ordinary silicone pastry mat, since professional roads are expensive.

    My soldering mat

    He holds high temperatures and nothing slides on it, i.e. the thing is practical and appropriate. I also use a special board holder with alligator clips, with which I conveniently fix the board.

    Board holder

    I purchased the mat and holder from Ali. In general, you can do without them, including the consideration. 🙂

    After desoldering, I use braid moistened with flux or rosin, leaning it with a soldering iron and moving them along the tracks and holes with tin, also previously lubricated with flux.

    desoldering braid

    As a result, the braid absorbs all the interfering solder, leaving everything around clean (cool idea!). The only thing keep in mind is that you don’t tear off the tracks and contact patches with the braid! This also happens! Be careful and take your time!

    I forgot to say that desoldering the socket with a soldering iron is problematic and risky. Of course with good experience You can also desolder it in a sophisticated way - with the help of one large drop of solder, covering the entire socket with it and taking care not to knock down or stick neighboring parts to your mega-drop, etc. But still, this is done masterfully by people with a full hand and experience. Another option is that earlier in workshops (when there were no hair dryers, during the USSR) special nozzles-stings were made (bought) for the necessary connectors and sockets, which made it possible to supply heat to all the required areas at once and easily desolder them. It was an excursion, but for you it’s still easier to use a hot air gun.

    Special tips

    Ideally, workshops successfully use a special microscope for soldering small parts. I use magnifying glasses, since I can’t afford a good microscope yet, and taking a cheap one is just a waste of money.

    Illuminated magnifying glasses

    I also use a set of clock screwdrivers for disassembly and assembly; I also use them with pleasure as convenient small cleaners (from rosin on the board), pickers, pushers, lifting element legs, etc. I bought it at the nearest hardware store for a symbolic amount.

    Set of cheap watch screwdrivers

    The varieties of tweezers that I purchased from Ali and Fix-Price help a lot.” In important cases, women's cosmetic tweezers may come in handy. 🙂

    The tip of your family forty-watt soldering iron will need to be sharpened to acute angle and with a slightly rounded end, in order to neatly and effectively crawl up to the legs of the socket and painlessly for neighboring radio elements.

    Sharpening the soldering iron tip

    Or just reel copper wire on the tip and use it as a thin tip, in common parlance: “Mini soldering iron in a hurry”!

    Mini soldering iron

    It is advisable to buy a cheap power regulator for the lamps, which you will use to regulate the temperature of the tip, so that the rosin on the tip does not quickly turn into soot, so as not to overheat the conductive paths and so that they do not fly off.

    Lamp power regulator

    Of course, it is possible without a power regulator, but then you will have to solder with short touches so as not to overheat the tracks and tediously often clean the tip from black rosin oxides. And again - and this is the art of the possible, on the verge of risk. Decide for yourself.

    Let's continue. Before soldering, I washed off the used flux from the board with a toothbrush soaked in alcohol (you can also use vodka, but it’s not quite suitable because of the oils), brushing it towards the edges of the board so that the old flux does not smear on the board, fly off the board and led to corrosion of adjacent copper tracks. In general, this generally applies to almost all fluxes, no-clean and neutral, and also applies to rosin, since they are all aggressive to one degree or another and their evaporation is harmful to health to one degree or another (ventilate the room!). Therefore, it is advisable to wash off with alcohol, detergents, etc., and scrape off the rosin and rinse with alcohol (under the rosin, it can also corrode the tracks!). Next, I looked to see if the contact pads were clean and soldered (there shouldn’t be a lot of solder, i.e. no slides, just soldering so that the socket lays flat and is soldered), lubricated the soldering areas with flux (see the photo for flux), laid it down, taking aim.” carefully on the seats so that the nest then coincides with back cover and soldered it, periodically replenishing the tip with solder. Well, or if your solder is in the form of a thin wire, bring it to the place of soldering with a tip. If you only have rosin, then simply pick up solder with a tip, then dip it in rosin and quickly, before the rosin on the tip turns into a nasty black mass due to overheating, solder the necessary contact pins to the socket.

    Afterwards, be sure to check how you soldered, whether everything looks nice, whether anything is sticking out, or whether there is a so-called. ,snot" between the contact pads, as this may cause short circuit and is fraught with more serious damage to the device. Use a little braid, if you can’t remove the snot with a sting, it will take away excess solder and deposit tin under the socket leg. If a little remains, then lubricate the area with rosin and lightly use a sting to tear off the remaining tin between the contacts. But don't overdo it, the solder should be in the form of a sufficient droplet covering the contact for a strong contact. Do not skimp on flux (rosin) so that the soldering is electrically conductive (and not the so-called “cold” or “dry” soldering, which does not conduct current).

    Now, partially, without screws, we assemble the smartphone, connect the cables, turn it on, check for functionality, if everything is fine, charging is in progress, the battery shows that it is accumulating charge, then we finally assemble it by screwing and closing the back decorative cover.

    To clarify the process of replacing the socket, I cut you gifs from a video of a professional working. Look and listen.

    The USB interface began to be widely used about 20 years ago, to be precise, since the spring of 1997. It was then that the universal serial bus was implemented in hardware in many motherboards personal computers. Currently, this type of connecting peripherals to a PC is a standard, versions have been released that have significantly increased the data exchange speed, and new types of connectors have appeared. Let's try to understand the specifications, pinouts and other features of USB.

    What are the advantages of Universal Serial Bus?

    Implementation this method connections made it possible:

    • Quickly connect various peripheral devices to your PC, from the keyboard to external disk drives.
    • Make full use of Plug&Play technology, which simplifies the connection and configuration of peripherals.
    • Rejection of a number of outdated interfaces, which had a positive impact on functionality computing systems.
    • The bus allows not only to transfer data, but also to supply power to connected devices, with a load current limit of 0.5 and 0.9 A for the old and new generations. This made it possible to use USB to charge phones as well as connect various gadgets(mini fans, lights, etc.).
    • It has become possible to manufacture mobile controllers, for example, USB network card RJ-45, electronic keys to log in and log out

    Types of USB connectors - main differences and features

    There are three specifications (versions) of this type connections that are partially compatible with each other:

    1. The very first option that has become widespread is v 1. It is an improved modification previous version(1.0), which practically did not make it out of the prototype phase due to serious errors in the data transfer protocol. This specification has the following characteristics:
    • Dual-mode data transfer at high and low speed (12.0 and 1.50 Mbps, respectively).
    • Possibility of connecting more than a hundred various devices(including hubs).
    • The maximum cord length is 3.0 and 5.0 m for high and low transfer speeds, respectively.
    • The rated bus voltage is 5.0 V, the permissible load current of the connected equipment is 0.5 A.

    Today this standard is practically not used due to its low throughput.

    1. The dominant second specification today... This standard is fully compatible with the previous modification. Distinctive feature– availability of a high-speed data exchange protocol (up to 480.0 Mbit per second).

    Thanks to full hardware compatibility with the younger version, peripheral devices this standard can be connected to the previous modification. The truth is that throughput decrease up to 35-40 times, and in some cases more.

    Since these versions are fully compatible, their cables and connectors are identical.

    Please note that, despite the throughput specified in the specification, real speed data exchange in the second generation is slightly lower (about 30-35 MB per second). This is due to the implementation of the protocol, which leads to delays between data packets. Since modern drives have a read speed four times higher than the throughput of the second modification, that is, it does not meet current requirements.

    1. The 3rd generation universal bus was developed specifically to solve problems of insufficient bandwidth. According to the specification, this modification is capable of exchanging information at a speed of 5.0 Gbit per second, which is almost three times the reading speed of modern drives. Plugs and sockets of the latest modification are usually marked blue to facilitate identification of belonging to this specification.

    Another feature of the third generation is an increase in the rated current to 0.9 A, which allows you to power a number of devices and eliminate the need for separate power supplies for them.

    As for compatibility with the previous version, it is partially implemented; this will be discussed in detail below.

    Classification and pinout

    Connectors are usually classified by type, there are only two of them:


    Note that such convectors are compatible only between earlier modifications.


    In addition, there are port extenders of this interface. At one end there is a type A plug, and at the other there is a socket for it, that is, in fact, a “mother” - “father” connection. Such cords can be very useful, for example, to connect a flash drive without crawling under the table to the system unit.


    Now let's look at how contacts are wired for each of the types listed above.

    USB 2.0 connector pinout (types A and B)

    Since the physical plugs and sockets of early versions 1.1 and 2.0 do not differ from each other, we will present the wiring of the latter.


    Figure 6. Wiring the plug and socket of type A connector

    Designation:

    • A - nest.
    • B – plug.
    • 1 – power supply +5.0 V.
    • 2 and 3 signal wires.
    • 4 – mass.

    In the figure, the coloring of the contacts is shown according to the colors of the wire, and corresponds to the accepted specification.

    Now let's look at the wiring of the classic socket B.


    Designation:

    • A – plug connected to the socket on peripheral devices.
    • B – socket on a peripheral device.
    • 1 – power contact (+5 V).
    • 2 and 3 – signal contacts.
    • 4 – ground wire contact.

    The colors of the contacts correspond to the accepted coloring of the wires in the cord.

    USB 3.0 pinout (types A and B)

    In the third generation, peripheral devices are connected via 10 (9 if there is no shielding braid) wires; accordingly, the number of contacts is also increased. But they are located in such a way that it is possible to connect devices of earlier generations. That is, the +5.0 V contacts, GND, D+ and D-, are located in the same way as in the previous version. The wiring for Type A socket is shown in the figure below.


    Figure 8. Pinout of Type A connector in USB 3.0

    Designation:

    • A – plug.
    • B – nest.
    • 1, 2, 3, 4 – connectors fully correspond to the pinout of the plug for version 2.0 (see B in Fig. 6), the colors of the wires also match.
    • 5 (SS_TX-) and 6 (SS_TX+) connectors for data transmission wires via the SUPER_SPEED protocol.
    • 7 – ground (GND) for signal wires.
    • 8 (SS_RX-) and 9 (SS_RX+) connectors for data receiving wires using the SUPER_SPEED protocol.

    The colors in the figure correspond to those generally accepted for this standard.

    As mentioned above, a plug from an earlier model can be inserted into the socket of this port; accordingly, the throughput will decrease. As for the plug of the third generation of the universal bus, it is impossible to insert it into the sockets of the early release.

    Now let's look at the pinout for the type B socket. Unlike the previous type, such a socket is incompatible with any plug of earlier versions.


    Designations:

    A and B are plug and socket, respectively.

    Digital signatures for contacts correspond to the description in Figure 8.

    The color is as close as possible to color coding wires in the cord.

    Micro USB connector pinout

    To begin with, we present the wiring for this specification.


    As can be seen from the figure, this is a 5 pin connection; both the plug (A) and socket (B) have four contacts. Their purpose and digital and color designation correspond to the accepted standard, which was given above.

    Description of the micro USB connector for version 3.0.

    For of this connection A characteristically shaped 10 pin connector is used. In fact, it consists of two parts of 5 pins each, and one of them fully corresponds to the previous version of the interface. This implementation is somewhat confusing, especially considering the incompatibility of these types. Probably, the developers planned to make it possible to work with connectors of earlier modifications, but subsequently abandoned this idea or have not yet implemented it.


    The figure shows the pinout of the plug (A) and appearance micro USB sockets (B).

    Contacts 1 to 5 fully correspond to the second generation micro connector, the purpose of the other contacts is as follows:

    • 6 and 7 – data transmission via high-speed protocol (SS_TX- and SS_TX+, respectively).
    • 8 – mass for high-speed information channels.
    • 9 and 10 – data reception via high-speed protocol (SS_RX- and SS_RX+, respectively).

    Mini USB pinout

    This connection option is only used in earlier versions interface, this type is not used in the third generation.


    As you can see, the wiring of the plug and socket is almost identical to the micro USB, respectively, color scheme wires and contact numbers also match. Actually, the differences are only in shape and size.

    In this article we have presented only standard types of connections; many manufacturers of digital equipment practice introducing their own standards; there you can find connectors for 7 pin, 8 pin, etc. This introduces certain difficulties, especially when the question arises of finding a charger for mobile phone. It should also be noted that manufacturers of such “exclusive” products are in no hurry to tell how the USB pinout is done in such contactors. But, as a rule, this information is easy to find on thematic forums.

    Universal USB buses are one of the most popular computer interfaces. They debuted back in 1997, and just three years later new modification(2.0), accelerated 40 times compared to the original one. However, despite such progress, manufacturers realized that the speed is still not enough to use external hard drives and other high-speed devices. And today a new USB interface (type 3.0) has appeared. The new standard exceeded the speed of the previous version (2.0) by 10 times. This article is devoted to the issue of wiring a USB connector. This information may be useful to radio amateurs who independently manufacture any USB adapters or devices that receive power via the USB bus. In addition, let's look at what the wiring of a USB connector like micro-USB and mini-USB is.

    Description

    Many radio amateurs have encountered a problem where an incorrectly connected USB bus port led to the burning of flash drives and peripheral devices. To avoid such situations, it is necessary that the USB connector is wired correctly, in accordance with accepted standards. Connector USB type 2.0 is a flat connector with four contacts, it is marked AF (BF) - “mother” and AM (VM) - “father”. Micro-USBs have the same markings, only with a micro prefix, and mini-type devices, respectively, have a mini prefix. The last two types differ from the 2.0 standard in that these connectors already use 5 contacts. And finally, the latest type is USB 3.0. Outwardly, it is similar to type 2.0, but this connector uses as many as 9 contacts.

    Pinout of USB type connectors

    The USB 2.0 connector is wired as follows:

    The first wire (red), the supply voltage is supplied to it DC+5 V;

    The second contact (white), it is used for (D-);

    Third wire ( green), it is also designed to transmit information (D+);

    The fourth contact (black color), zero supply voltage is supplied to it, it is also called the common wire.

    As mentioned above, the micro and mini types are a five-pin USB connector. The wiring of such a connector is identical to type 2.0, except for the fourth and fifth pins. The fourth pin (lilac color) is the ID. In type B connectors it is not used, but in type A connectors it is connected to the common wire. The last, fifth pin (black) is the supply voltage zero.

    type 3.0

    The first four contacts are completely identical to the 2.0 standard; we will not dwell on them. The fifth pin (blue) is used to transmit information with a minus sign of USB3 (StdA_SSTX). The sixth output is the same, but with a plus sign (yellow). The seventh is additional grounding. The eighth pin (purple) is for receiving USB3 data (StdA_SSRX) with a minus sign. And finally, the last ninth is the same as the seventh, but with a plus sign.

    How to wire a USB connector for charging?

    Any charger uses only two wires from the USB connector: + 5V and general contact. Therefore, if you need to solder a USB 2.0 or 3.0 type connector to the “charging”, then you should use the first and fourth pins. If you use mini or micro types, then you need to solder to the first and fifth pins. The most important thing when applying supply voltage is to maintain the polarity of the device.

    Content:

    In every computer and other similar devices, the most popular is the USB connector. By using usb wires it became possible to connect more than 100 units of series-connected devices. These buses allow you to connect and disconnect any devices even during operation personal computer. Almost all devices can be charged through this connector, so there is no need to use additional power supplies. USB pinout colors help you determine exactly what type of device a particular bus belongs to.

    USB device and purpose

    The first ports of this type appeared in the nineties of the last century. After some time, these connectors were updated to the USB 2.0 model. The speed of their work has increased more than 40 times. Currently, computers have new interface USB 3.0 with speeds 10 times faster than the previous version.

    There are other types of connectors of this type, known as micro and mini USB, used in modern phones, smartphones, tablets. Each bus has its own pinout or pinout. It may be required if you need to make your own adapter from one type of connector to another. Knowing all the intricacies of the arrangement of wires, you can even make a charger for a mobile phone. However, it should be remembered that in case incorrect connection the device may be damaged.

    The USB 2.0 connector is designed as a flat connector with four pins. Depending on the purpose, it is labeled as AF (BF) and AM (BM), which corresponds to the common name “mother” and “father”. Mini and micro devices have the same markings. They differ from conventional buses in that they have five contacts. USB device 3.0 externally resembles the 2.0 model, with the exception of the internal design, which already has nine contacts.

    Pinout of USB 2.0 and 3.0 connectors

    The wiring in the USB 2.0 model is in the following order:

    1. The conductor is red, to which a DC supply voltage with a value of +5V is supplied.
    2. Conductor white, used to transmit information data. It is designated by the marking “D-”.
    3. The conductor is painted green. It also transmits information. It is marked as "D+".
    4. The conductor is black. It is supplied with zero supply voltage. It is called the common wire and is designated by its own mark in the form of an inverted T.

    The layout of the wires in the 3.0 model is completely different. The first four contact wires fully correspond to the USB 2.0 connector.

    Basics USB difference 3.0 consists of the following wires:

    • Conductor No. 5 has blue. It transmits information with a negative value.
    • Conductor No. 6, yellow, like the previous contact, is intended to transmit information that has a positive meaning.
    • Conductor No. 7 is used as additional grounding.
    • Conductor No. 8 purple and conductor No. 9 orange color. They perform the function of receiving data with negative and positive values, respectively.

    Wiring and pinout of micro- and mini-USB connectors

    Micro USB connectors are most often used in tablets and smartphones. From standard tires micro pinout USB are significantly smaller in size and have five pins. They are marked as micro-AF(BF) and micro-AM(BM), which corresponds to “mother” and “father”.

    Micro-USB wiring is carried out in the following order:

    • Contact No. 1 is red. Voltage is supplied through it.
    • Contacts No. 2 and 3, white and green, are used for transmission.
    • Contact No. 4 of lilac color performs special functions in certain tire models.
    • Contact No. 5, black, is the neutral wire.

    The pinout of the mini USB connector by color is carried out in the same way as in micro-USB connectors.