• Do-it-yourself color music using thyristors. Color music using powerful LEDs with a strobe light

    Do-it-yourself color music - what could be more pleasant and interesting for a radio amateur, because it is not difficult to assemble if you have a good circuit.

    In modern radio engineering there is a huge variety of radio elements and LEDs, the advantages of which are difficult to doubt. Wide range of colors, bright and rich light, high speed triggering of various elements, low energy consumption. This list of advantages can be continued endlessly.

    The principle of operation of color music: LEDs assembled according to the circuit blink from an existing sound source (this can be a player or a radio and speakers) at a certain frequency.

    Advantages of using LEDs over those previously used in CMU:

    • luminous saturation of light and a wide color range;
    • good speed;
    • low energy consumption.

    The simplest schemes

    A simple color music that can be assembled has one LED and is powered by a 6–12 V DC source.

    You can assemble the above circuit using an LED strip and selecting the necessary transistor. The disadvantage is that there is a dependence on the sound level. In other words, the full effect can be observed only at one sound level. If you lower the volume, there will be a rare blinking, and if you increase the volume, a constant glow will remain.

    This drawback can be eliminated using a three-channel sound converter. Below is a simple circuit; it is not difficult to assemble it with your own hands using transistors.

    Color music circuit with three-channel sound converter

    This circuit requires a 9-volt power supply, which will allow the LEDs in the channels to light. To assemble three amplification stages, you will need KT315 transistors (analogous to KT3102). Multi-colored LEDs are used as a load. A step-down transformer is used for amplification. Resistors perform the function of adjusting LED flashes. The circuit contains filters for passing frequencies.

    The scheme can be improved. To do this, you need to add brightness with 12 V incandescent light bulbs. You will need control thyristors. The entire device must be powered from a transformer. According to this the simplest scheme You can already work. Color music using thyristors can be assembled even by a novice radio technician.

    How to make color music using LEDs with your own hands? The first thing you need to do is select an electrical circuit.

    Below is a diagram of a light and music system with an RGB strip. For such an installation, a 12 volt power supply is required. It can work in two modes: as a lamp and as a color music. The mode is selected by a switch installed on the board.

    Manufacturing stages

    Must be done printed circuit board. To do this, you need to take foil fiberglass with dimensions of 50 x 90 mm and a thickness of 0.5 mm. The board manufacturing process consists of several stages:

    • preparation of foil PCB;
    • drilling holes for parts;
    • drawing paths;
    • etching.

    The board is ready, components have been purchased. Now begins the most crucial moment - the wiring of radio elements. The final result will depend on how carefully they are installed and sealed.

    We assemble our printed circuit board with the components soldered on it into such an accessible lampshade.

    Brief description of radioelements

    Radioelements for electrical diagram They are quite affordable and it won’t be difficult to purchase them at your nearest electrical goods store.

    For color and musical accompaniment, wirewound resistors with a power of 0.25–0.125 W are suitable. The amount of resistance can always be determined by the colored stripes on the body, knowing the order in which they are applied. Trimmer resistors can be both domestic and imported.

    Capacitors produced by industry are divided into oxide and electrolytic. It won’t be difficult to select the ones you need by doing basic calculations. Some oxide capacitors may have a polarity that must be observed during installation.

    You can take a ready-made diode bridge, but if you don’t have it, then a rectifier bridge can be easily assembled using diodes of the KD or 1N4007 series. LEDs are taken as usual, with multi-colored glow. The use of LED RGB strips is a promising direction in radio electronics.

    LED RGB strip

    Possibility of assembling a color and music console for a car

    If you manage to please with color music from LED strip, made by yourself, then a similar installation with a built-in radio can be made for a car. It is easy to assemble and quick to set up. It is proposed to place the set-top box in a plastic case, which can be purchased in the electrical and radio engineering department. The installation is reliably protected from moisture and dust. It is easy to install dashboard car.

    You can also make a similar case yourself using plexiglass.

    The plates of the required dimensions are selected, two holes are made in the first part (for power supply), and all parts are sanded. We assemble everything using a heat gun.

    An excellent lighting effect is achieved if you use multi-colored (RGB) tape.

    Conclusion

    The well-known saying “it is not the gods who burn the pots” remains relevant today. Varied assortment electronic components gives folk craftsmen wide scope for imagination. DIY color music on LEDs is one of the manifestations of limitless creativity.


      In this topic I will try to talk a little about such a promising and popular lighting or decorative product as LED strip. What types there are, how to connect them and use them at home, what is called “on the knee,” without any special problems or special knowledge. And, as I already mentioned in other topics, it’s inexpensive. In this topic, I am not going to write something like “buy a device for 2.5 - 5 thousand rubles.” We can do it cheaper too. In this text I will only touch on tapes, and even then not every one, because I have not dealt with all their possible types and types. In any case, in this text, if I haven’t indicated something, it doesn’t mean that it doesn’t exist, it means that I haven’t come across it, or, more likely, I wasn’t interested in it. If something is indicated incorrectly for some cases, then it is correct within the specified framework. Perhaps in the following posts I will make some adjustments or additions to what has already been said.
      What are LED strips called?
      LED strips are lighting products on a flexible substrate (flexible board). They are a strip (tape) of plastic on which LEDs (SMD, or as they also say chip LEDs, sometimes ordinary LEDs), quenching resistors, or other LED control circuits are placed. Reverse side The tape may have an adhesive layer (adhesive tape) for gluing it to any surface during installation. They are sold wound on reels. Maximum length tape on a reel, used for household purposes most often 5 meters. They can be sold in cut and smaller pieces, for example by the meter, or any length divisible by 5 cm, depending on the seller’s decision on this issue.

      LED strip is a kind of blank, semi-finished product, for creating lighting fixtures, or used as a means for decorative lighting, backlighting, etc. About the use of LED strips and rulers in everyday life, in the design of interiors, facades, shop windows, etc. you can find a lot of material on the Internet.
      LED strips can hardly be used as “upper light”; their main purpose is illumination and various illuminations. For overhead light it is better to use fluorescent lamps, or led lamps higher power.
      LED bars are called almost the same thing, only not on a flexible plastic, but on a rigid aluminum substrate, usually 20 - 50 cm long. Lines are also divided by power, number of LEDs, design, etc.
      Based on the glow color of the ribbons, they can be divided into three groups:
      - Monochrome, that is, the entire tape is one color, for example red, blue, green, yellow, cool white, warm white, etc.
      - RGB color, they are assembled on special three-color RGB LEDs, and can emit different colors, depending on the emission intensity of each color. For example, the simultaneous glow of blue and red, with the green channel turned off, will give a color similar to lilac or purple, and all three channels with the same intensity will give white. But as experiments show, white color is still not very pure, therefore such tapes are used only for decorative purposes, and not for lighting.
      - Multicolor (multi-colored) ribbons. Such strips have separate groups of LEDs of different colors (unlike RGB), for example 5 cm of red, then 5 cm of blue, etc. Although, obviously, in order to add confusion, they are also often called RGB strips. There are strips with separately controlled groups of LEDs, but there are others that do not have this feature.
      There are other strips that have built-in controllers for various lighting effects, such as running lights, or more complex ones, both working on their own and controlled externally, but I won’t touch on those.
      The strips also differ in the size of the LEDs, which means power consumption, I will talk about this below, their number, type of design - regular or protected for outdoor use, supply voltage, direction of radiation - normal or lateral, and many more parameters .
      The marking of LED strips often consists of the following line: 3528/60 IP67 cold white 4.8W 12VDC ELK
      This means that the strip consists of LEDs measuring 3.5x2.8 mm, has 60 LEDs per meter, full protection from dust, partial protection from water, color cool white, consumes 4.8 watts per meter, supply voltage 12V, manufacturer - ELK .
      5050/60 cool white 14.4W 12VDC GREEN - LEDs 5.0x5.0 mm, 60 pieces per meter. Power supply 12V DC, power 14.4 watts per meter. Cool white color, manufacturer - GREEN.
      5050/60 IP68 cool white 15W 220V - LEDs 5.0x5.0 mm, 60 pieces per meter, full protection from dust, capable of long-term operation under water no deeper than 1 m, consumes 15 watts per meter, powered directly from a 220V network.
      A little about color temperature: Sometimes in the designation of LED products there is a clause that may look like, for example, 2300K, 6400K, etc. This means that the color of the radiation of this product corresponds to the color of the radiation of an object heated to such a temperature in degrees Kelvin (0°K = -273.15°C). This means that the larger the number, the bluer the color, and the smaller the redder, and all the other colors are placed between them. You can notice that, for example, firewood burns with a red-orange flame, metal can be heated first to red, then to yellow and white, and the autogenous burner glows blue, as do electrical discharges. Just for this reason. Sometimes they ask such a tricky question - which object color temperature higher - near the sky or near the Sun? The correct answer is that the temperature in the sky is higher, since it is blue and the Sun is yellow.
      But what is considered, for example, warm or cool white? It looks like color temperature has nothing to do with it. It is not physical laws that come into force here, but artistic ideas. Warm white is considered to be a physically colder color, that is, having a yellowish tint. And cold white has a bluish tint. Obviously due to the psychophysical perception of a person, to whom yellow (Sun) seems warmer than blue (ice). From this we can assume that a warm shade will create coziness, and a cold one, on the contrary, will invigorate, although this is not at all necessary. As they say, there is no friend according to taste. For example, in all cases I prefer cold, simply because we have been lighting with warm lighting for millions of years, it’s time to try something different. Neutral white, or daytime white, refers to colors somewhere between warm and cool.
      It is impossible to say which color is better. What color to use for illuminating various objects must be decided individually at the location, separately for each case. It seems to me that in the bedroom or children's room it is better to have a warm one, and in the hallway, in the bathroom, or in the kitchen, it is better to have a cold one. But not a fact.
      Decoding of the IPxx standard: First digit (0-6) - intrusion protection foreign objects, dust, dirt. The second (0-8) is protection from water. The higher the number, the higher the protection. Zero - no protection. From this we can see that IP68 is maximum protection from all influences. But there is no particular need to use such tape inside a living space. By the way, it is also more expensive than tapes with a lower degree of protection.
      Power supply for LED strips:
      First, let's understand the terms.
      - Power supply (hereinafter referred to as PSU) is an electrical converter that generates the power supply voltage for the LED strip from some other power source, most often a 220V network. PSUs can be very different in design and version. Therefore, they must be chosen correctly for each use case.
      - Transformer [for LED strips] - this is often called a power supply unit for LED strips, which, although they contain a transformer, are not actually transformers. They should under no circumstances be confused with the so-called. "electronic transformers" for halogen or other low-voltage incandescent lamps, which are also 12 volts, but only produce AC impulse voltage. Such “transformers” cannot be used for tapes. When using such a device, the tape may fail or operate unstable (flashing), and its service life will be greatly reduced. However, some sellers consider these devices to be one and the same, and they may be placed side by side in one place, which can cause confusion. You also cannot use conventional step-down transformers that are not equipped with rectifiers. Although the tape will glow, it will not last long, since LEDs, although they are diodes, are not designed to work with alternating voltage(they can get through with reverse current).
      - Driver - a control device for connecting LEDs to a power source. Essentially, it is a stabilizer or current regulator that powers an LED, or a group of LEDs. In our case, special drivers are not required, since their role is played by resistors placed directly on the tape.
      - Dimmer - Brightness control, dimmer. I’ll talk about dimmers and how they can be inexpensively built below.
      - Controller - Control device for LED strips. It can combine the functions of a driver and a dimmer, and/or create various lighting or color effects. Some controllers are equipped with remote controls.
      - Power - electrical power in watts consumed by the tape. Has nothing to do with the power of incandescent lamps, with which LED or fluorescent lamps are often compared.
      There are LED strips with different supply voltages, but I haven’t come across any other than strips with a 12V power supply. Perhaps such tapes are found most often. It is these tapes that will be discussed below. If anyone has tapes for other voltages, then throughout the text he must replace “12V” with the voltage of his tape.
      The power supply for the tapes, or its documentation, must clearly state that the output is D.C.(DC), voltage is indicated (12V), either current (in amperes) or power (in watts) is indicated, and plus and minus are indicated on the terminals or in the documentation. When connecting LED strips, be sure to observe the polarity of the connection.
      The power supply for supplying voltage to LED strips does not have to be any special; you can use any available power supply, both pulse and transformer, as long as they provide the required voltage and current. The choice of power supply depends on the load that the tape used will require.
      BPs can be stabilized or not stabilized. What does it mean? This means that a stabilized power supply maintains a given voltage regardless of the load and the supply voltage, within the limits for which it is designed. Unstabilized - without load, it has a slightly higher voltage, which decreases with increasing load. In addition, the output voltage depends on the supply voltage. Unstabilized power supplies are usually the simplest and cheapest, most often containing a transformer with a rectifier and a capacitor to smooth out voltage ripples. I can tell you how to make a simple transformer power supply separately, in another topic.
      Let's consider concrete example choosing a power supply - let's say we need to power 3 meters of tape at 12V, 8 watts per meter. So in total it will be 8x3 = 24 watts. This means you need to take a power supply with a power of at least 24 watts.
      Sometimes the power supply does not indicate the power in watts, but the current in amperes. Amps can be converted to watts using the formula P=UI, that is, power P is equal to the product of voltage U (in volts) and current I (in amperes). So in our case 24 = 12x?, from here we can see that the current is 2 A. So we need to find a power supply of any suitable design, 12V, with a current of at least 2 A. But it’s better with a reserve of current (power), for reliability, for example 2.5 or 3 amperes. In general, it is advisable to always choose a power supply that is 20-40% more powerful than required.
      Not all stores indicate the full name of the LED strips; for example, the power or performance standard may not be indicated. In this case, you can determine the power by eye by the size of the LEDs and their number. And if you need accurate data, you can get it by measuring it yourself. Let's say there is one meter of RGB tape of unknown power. We connect all its channels (colors) to a powerful power source, using a voltmeter and an ammeter. Measurements give a voltage of 12.7 volts and a current of 1.1 amperes. Using the formula P=UI, we multiply one by the other. We get something like 14 watts per meter. But considering that our supply voltage was slightly higher than normal, we decide that the power is still about 12 watts. To power this segment, you need to select a 12V, 12 W power supply (or 1-1.5A).
      If the power of the existing power supply is more than required, then there is no problem. If not very much less, then you can try, praying, connect the tape to short time, and see what happens. In this case, it is useful to connect a voltmeter or multimeter in parallel to the tape to evaluate the operation of the power supply. Commercially available power supplies may have different quality. Some will not be able to develop even the rated power, and some are made with a very large margin of reliability and will withstand at least one and a half loads. Or they can work normally under increased load, only the output voltage will decrease. In any case, you should not operate the power supply if it is very hot, if there is a buzzing or whistling sound, as well as an unpleasant odor, and especially smoke.
      The performance of the power supply cannot be checked “for a spark” by creating short circuit. This action can instantly disable it, and repairs will cost more than buying a new one. This is especially true for inexpensive switching power supplies that do not have short circuit protection. During installation, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of spontaneous short circuiting.
      Powering the tape with reduced voltage increases its service life. The minimum tape ignition voltage is about 7.5 volts.
      You can try to serve a little increased voltage, for example, up to 14 volts, especially in cases where the tape works from time to time, not for very long. In this case, be sure to check whether there is any dangerous heating of the LEDs and quenching resistors, and ensure natural air movement in the installation site, and remove dust more often. In this case, the service life will of course be reduced, but as I already said in another topic, it’s okay if the tape can work for five years, instead of working for ten, despite the fact that it will be thrown away after a year. Something should not always be built with grandchildren in mind, especially in our time, when something new is constantly appearing, and what is morally obsolete is thrown away in still working condition. The same applies to motorists who decorate their cars with ribbons. As you know, the voltage in a car, although it is considered 12 volts, can actually reach 15-16 volts. How long will a tape installed on a car to illuminate the underbody last in winter? And what will cause it to die first, from overvoltage or mechanical damage?

      To be continued.

    This LED color music is suitable for those who listen to music on the computer. It can be placed inside the case and it will be illuminated to the beat of the music.

    The color music scheme is very simple and does not present any difficulties.


     Required components:
    1. 4 LEDs (any color) 3mm
    2. P2 plug
    3. 2 position switch
    4. Bipolar transistor TIP31
    5. The box (if needed) can also be placed directly in the computer case
    6. Soldering iron
    7. Cable

    We connect 4 LEDs to +12 V of the computer, connect the anode to a 2-position switch, which in turn connects to bipolar transistor TIP31. We connect the two unused ends of the transistor directly to the terminals of the plug for headphones or speakers P2.

    All assembled components we install it in a box (box), or directly into the computer case - it’s up to everyone at their own discretion. We made holes for the LEDs, switch and plug.

    Installation of LED color music in a box

    Let's connect the LEDs, transistor and switch

    1 of 2


    Connecting LEDs


    General assembled view with transistors

    Next comes the most interesting part. It is necessary to solder the LEDs together, the transistor and the switch. From the photographs it is clear without words. The only thing is that we had to select the length of the conductors so that they would fit in the box.

    We connect the common negative from the LEDs to the middle contact of the switch. From the switch, one of the positions is connected to the middle pin of the transistor, connect the second position according to the color music diagram that we presented above.

    Installation of wires to plug P2

    Final stage

    1 of 2


    Installation of diode color music circuit


    Soldered plug

    If we disassemble the headphone plug, we can see three connectors inside - left and right channels, ground. We connect one of the channels to the left pin of the Tip31 transistor. If P2 is connected through the left channel and it does not “beat” with the computer output, then our circuit will not work. Therefore, immediately decide correctly or experiment. Ground (usually a long connector) should be connected to the right pin of the transistor.

    One of the switch pins should be connected to ground from the transistor. With this connection, the LEDs will start blinking if there is any signal at the output. If there is no signal coming from connector P2, if there is a signal on the other side, they will light up constantly.

    We mount everything in the box, connect it and check its functionality.

    To assemble LED color music with your own hands, you need to have basic knowledge of electronics, be able to read schematics and work with a soldering iron. In the article we will look at how LED color music works, the basic working diagrams on the basis of which you can assemble ready-made devices yourself, and at the end we will step by step assemble the finished device using an example.

    How does color music work?

    Color music installations are based on the method frequency conversion music and its transmission, through separate channels, to control light sources. The result is that, depending on the basic musical parameters, the work color system will correspond to it. This trailer is the basis for the scheme for assembling color music on LEDs with your own hands.

    Typically, at least three different colors are used to create color effects. It can be blue, green and red. Mixed in different combinations, with different durations, they can create an amazing atmosphere of fun.

    Divide the signal into low, mid and high purity, LC and RC filters are capable, they are the ones that are installed and configured in a color music system using LEDs.

    Filter settings are set to the following parameters:

    • up to 300 Hz for a low-pass filter, usually its color is red;
    • 250-2500 Hz for medium, color green;
    • everything above 2000 Hz converts into a high-pass filter, as a rule, the operation of the blue LED depends on it.

    The division into frequencies is carried out with slight overlap, this is necessary to obtain different color shades during operation of the device.

    The choice of color in this color music scheme is not important, and if you wish, you can use LEDs of different colors at your discretion, change places and experiment; no one can prohibit it. Various frequency fluctuations, combined with the use of a non-standard color scheme, can significantly affect the quality of the result.

    Such circuit parameters as the number of channels and their frequency are also available for adjustment, from which we can conclude that color music can use large number LEDs of different colors, and each of them can be individually adjusted in frequency and channel width.

    What is needed to make color music

    Resistors for color music installations, produced in-house, can only be used constant, with a power of 0.25-0.125. Suitable resistors can be seen in the figure below. The stripes on the body indicate the resistance value.

    Also in the circuit are used R3 resistors, and tuning resistors R - 10, 14, 7 and R 18, regardless of type. The main requirement is the ability to install on the board used during assembly. First option LED color music, assembled using a resistor variable type with the designation SPZ-4VM and imported - tuning.

    As for capacitors, you need to use parts with an operating voltage of 16 volts, no less. Can be any type. If you have difficulty finding capacitor C7, you can connect two smaller capacitors in parallel to obtain the required parameters.

    The capacitors C1, C6 used in the LED color music circuit must be capable of operating at 10 volts, respectively C9–16V, C8–25V. If instead of the old ones Soviet capacitors, it is planned to use new, imported ones, it is worth remembering that they have a difference in designation, you need to determine in advance the polarity of the capacitors that will be installed, otherwise you can confuse and damage the circuit.

    To make color music, you will also need a diode bridge with a voltage of 50V and an operating current of about 200 milliamps. In cases where it is not possible to install a ready-made diode bridge, you can make it from several rectifier diodes, for convenience, they can be removed from the board and mounted separately using a smaller board.

    The parameters of the diodes are selected similarly to those used in the factory version of the bridge and diodes.

    LEDs should be red, blue and green. For one channel you will need six of them.

    Another necessary element is a voltage stabilizer. A five-volt stabilizer is used, imported, with article number 7805. You can also use 7809 (nine-volt), but then you need to exclude resistor R22 from the circuit, and instead put a jumper connecting the negative bus and the middle terminal.

    Connect color music with music center, you can use a three-pin jack connector.

    And the last thing you need to have for assembly is a transformer with suitable voltage parameters.

    General diagram for assembling color music, which uses the parts described in the photo below.

    Several working schemes

    Below we will propose several working schemes for LED color music.

    Option #1

    Any type of LED can be used for this circuit. The main thing is that they are super bright and different in glow. The circuit works on the following principle: the signal from the source is transmitted to the input, where the channel signals are summed and then sent to a variable resistance. (R6, R7, R8) Using this resistance, the signal level for each channel is adjusted, and then sent to the filters. The difference between filters is in the capacity of the capacitors used to assemble them. Their purpose, as in other devices, is to transform and purify sound range within certain limits. These are high, mid and low frequencies. For adjustment, adjustment resistors are installed in the color music circuit. Having gone through all this, the signal goes to a microcircuit that allows you to install various LEDs.

    Option No. 2

    The second version of LED color music is distinguished by its simplicity and is suitable for beginners. The circuit involves an amplifier and three channels for frequency processing. A transformer is installed, which can be dispensed with if the input signal is sufficient to open the LEDs. As in similar circuits, adjustment resistors are used, designated as R4 - 6. Any transistors can be used, the main thing is that they transmit more than 50% of the current. Essentially, nothing more is required. The circuit can be improved, if desired, to obtain a more powerful color and music installation.

    Step-by-step assembly of the simplest color music model

    To assemble a simple LED color music system, you will need the following materials:

    • LEDs measuring five millimeters;
    • wire from old headphones;
    • original or analogue of transistor KT817;
    • 12 volt power supply;
    • several wires;
    • a piece of plexiglass;
    • glue gun

    The first thing you need to start with is to make the body of the future color music from plexiglass. To do this, it is cut to size and glued together with a glue gun. It’s better to make a box rectangular shape. The sizes can be adjusted to suit you.

    To calculate the number of LEDs, divide the adapter voltage (12V) by working LEDs(3B). It turns out we need to install 4 LEDs in the box.

    We strip the cable from the headphones, there are three wires in it, we will use one for the left or right channel, and one for the common one.

    We don't need one wire and it can be insulated.

    The diagram of a simple LED color music looks like this:

    Before assembly, we lay the cable inside the box.

    LEDs have polarity, so when connecting, it must be taken into account.

    During the assembly process, you should try not to heat the transistor, as this can lead to its breakdown, and pay attention to the markings on the legs. The emitter is designated as (E), base and collector, respectively (B) and (K). After assembly and inspection, you can install the top cover.

    Ready-made version of LED color music

    In conclusion, I would like to say that assembling color music using LEDs is not as difficult as it might seem at first. Of course, if you need a device with beautiful design, then you will have to spend a lot of time and effort here. But for making simple color music in introductory or for entertainment purposes It is enough to assemble one of the diagrams presented in the article.

    Structurally, any color and music (light and music) installation consists of three elements. Control unit, power amplification unit and optical output device.

    You can use garlands as an output optical device, you can design it in the form of a screen (classic version) or use electric directional lamps - spotlights, headlights.
    That is, any means are suitable that allow you to create a certain set of colorful lighting effects.

    A power amplification unit is an amplifier(s) using transistors with thyristor regulators on the way out. The voltage and power of the light sources of the output optical device depend on the parameters of the elements used in it.

    The control unit controls the intensity of light and the alternation of colors. In difficult special installations designed to decorate the stage during various types shows - circus, theater and variety performances, this unit is controlled manually.
    Accordingly, the participation of at least one, and at most, a group of lighting operators is required.

    If the control unit is controlled directly by music and works according to any given program, then the color and music installation is considered automatic.
    It is precisely this kind of “color music” that novice designers - radio amateurs - have usually assembled with their own hands over the past 50 years.

    The simplest (and most popular) “color music” circuit using KU202N thyristors.


    This is the simplest and perhaps the most popular scheme color music console, on thyristors.
    Thirty years ago I first saw a full-fledged, working “light music” up close. My classmate put it together with the help of my older brother. It was exactly this scheme. Its undoubted advantage is its simplicity, with a fairly clear separation of the operating modes of all three channels. Lamps do not flash simultaneously, red channel low frequencies blinks steadily in rhythm with the drums, the middle green one responds in the range of the human voice, the high frequency blue one reacts to everything else subtle - ringing and squeaking.

    There is only one drawback - it is necessary preamplifier power by 1-2 watts. My friend had to turn his “Electronics” almost “fully” in order to achieve a sufficiently stable device operation. A step-down transformer from a radio point was used as an input transformer. Instead, you can use any small-sized step-down network trans. For example, from 220 to 12 volts. You just need to connect it the other way around - with a low-voltage winding to the amplifier input. Any resistors, with a power of 0.5 watts. Capacitors are also any, instead of KU202N thyristors you can take KU202M.

    "Color music" circuit using KU202N thyristors, with active frequency filters and a current amplifier.

    The circuit is designed to operate from a linear audio output (the brightness of the lamps does not depend on the volume level).
    Let's take a closer look at how it works.
    Beep supplied from the linear output to the primary winding of the isolation transformer. From the secondary winding of the transformer, the signal is supplied to active filters, through resistors R1, R2, R3 regulating its level.
    Separate adjustment is necessary to configure the high-quality operation of the device by equalizing the brightness level of each of the three channels.

    Using filters, signals are divided by frequency into three channels. According to the first goes to the channel the lowest frequency component of the signal - the filter cuts off all frequencies above 800 Hz. The filter is adjusted using trimming resistor R9. The values ​​of capacitors C2 and C4 in the diagram are indicated as 1 µF, but as practice has shown, their capacity should be increased to at least 5 µF.

    The filter of the second channel is set to medium frequency - from approximately 500 to 2000 Hz. The filter is adjusted using trimming resistor R15. The values ​​of capacitors C5 and C7 in the diagram are indicated as 0.015 μF, but their capacity should be increased to 0.33 - 0.47 μF.

    The third, high-frequency channel carries everything above 1500 (up to 5000) Hz. The filter is adjusted using trimming resistor R22. The values ​​of capacitors C8 and C10 in the circuit are indicated as 1000 pF, but their capacitance should be increased to 0.01 μF.

    Next, the signals of each channel are separately detected (using germanium transistors series d9), are amplified and fed to the final stage.
    The final stage is performed on powerful transistors, or on thyristors. IN in this case, these are KU202N thyristors.

    Next comes optical device, the design and appearance of which depend on the imagination of the designer, and the filling (lamps, LEDs) - on the operating voltage and maximum power output stage.
    In our case, these are 220V, 60W incandescent lamps (if you install thyristors on radiators - up to 10 pcs per channel).

    The order of assembling the circuit.

    About the details of the console.
    KT315 transistors can be replaced with other silicon ones npn transistors with a static gain of at least 50. Fixed resistors - MLT-0.5, variable and tuning - SP-1, SPO-0.5. Capacitors - any type.
    Transformer T1 with a ratio of 1:1, so you can use any one with a suitable number of turns. At self-production you can use a magnetic circuit Ш10x10, and wind the windings with PEV-1 wire 0.1-0.15, 150-300 turns each.

    The diode bridge for powering thyristors (220V) is selected based on the expected load power, minimum - 2A. If the number of lamps per channel is increased, the current consumption will increase accordingly.
    To power transistors (12V), you can use any stabilized power supply designed for an operating current of at least 250 mA (or better, more).

    First, each color music channel is assembled separately on a breadboard.
    Moreover, the assembly begins with the output stage. Having assembled the output stage, check its functionality by applying a sufficient level signal to its input.
    If this cascade works normally, they collect active filter. Next, they check again the functionality of what happened.
    As a result, after testing we have a really working channel.

    In a similar way, it is necessary to collect and rebuild all three channels. Such tediousness guarantees the unconditional functionality of the device after “fine” assembly on the circuit board, if the work is carried out without errors and using “tested” parts.

    Possible printed circuit mounting option (for textolite with one-sided foil coating). If you use a larger capacitor in the lowest frequency channel, the distances between the holes and conductors will have to be changed. The use of PCB with double-sided foil may be a more technologically advanced option - it will help get rid of hanging jumper wires.


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